Would like information and help. Thanks..

D

dawgboy

New member
Well after trying to polish my car by hand multiple times and also having one vehicle and not being able to have a correction done except on the weekend.!!! *Whew* I have decided to purchase a DA. When I first came on this site, the PC 7424XP was popular, but now the Griot Garage has taken its place for a lot of people..Well I will be purchasing the Griot Garage 6". Now on to the Questions and Information.



1. Where to purchase Griot Garage 6" in a bundle pack for a good price or just get the Griot by istelf. (Should I get the 25ft cord) or is this really necessary?



2. Ive read where you have to apply a liquid to any pad for "lubrication"? What kind?



3. Which pads should I purchase and compounds? (I have a Black 2005 Nissan Altima, I do not plan on correcting other cars just my own vehicle so.....anybody with experience on Nissans?).



4. What RPM do you usually use the Griot with? Is there a common RPM or do you adjust according to product being used? (Ive never seen any information on this in the forums personally)



5. And finally...*LOL* What is the importance of taping off the edges of your car and is this necessary? On your paint corrections for customers, do you then correct by hand on the edges you have taped up or is it not noticeable to be addressed.



Thanks for the help and support.
 
PrinceHoliday said:
Well I will be purchasing the Griot Garage 6"...
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Good choice. You'll find machine polishing is a whole 'nother ballgame compared to doing it by hand.





1. Where to purchase Griot Garage 6" in a bundle pack for a good price or just get the Griot by istelf. (Should I get the 25ft cord) or is this really necessary?
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I never know who has the best offers, but somebody oughta chime in with info. Griot's has a sale on now IIRC.



I'd just get the polisher and then cherry-pick the stuff to go with it.



I got the longer cord (the polisher was a gift) and thought I'd never appreciate it because I have a zillion outlets everywhere and scads of extension cords. Guess what...I simply *LOVE* the longer cord! I'd sure spend the extra and get it.



2. Ive read where you have to apply a liquid to any pad for "lubrication"? What kind?
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90% of the time (or it it more like 99% with Random Orbital polishers? probably...) I do not use a pad lube. I just apply the appropriate amount of product to the appropriate pad and use it like that. No problems.



3. Which pads should I purchase and compounds? (I have a Black 2005 Nissan Altima, I do not plan on correcting other cars just my own vehicle so.....anybody with experience on Nissans?).
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I'd better let somebody who knows from Nissans answer that. But it's basically a question of how aggressive you really need/want to get.



4. What RPM do you usually use the Griot with? Is there a common RPM or do you adjust according to product being used? (Ive never seen any information on this in the forums personally)
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Serious correction at max speed. I might dial it back a bit for finish-polishing as some finishing polishes work better that way. But generally, keep the speed up there if you're correcting paint. Dial it back to like 3-4.5 for paint cleaners, all-in-ones, etc. and maybe take it down as low as 3 for waxes and sealants (but I probably use 3.5-4 myself).



5. And finally...*LOL* What is the importance of taping off the edges of your car and is this necessary? On your paint corrections for customers, do you then correct by hand on the edges you have taped up or is it not noticeable to be addressed.
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The importance is relative to how thin the paint is *or might be* on the edges and how aggressive you're being. Unless the paint is unusually thin in such areas, and/or you're being really aggressive....you can *probably* just not worry about it. It's not like the polisher will be taking off paint the way sandpaper goes through soft wood or anything like that.



If some area is covered by tape, then yeah you might have to go back and do it separately (maybe by hand, maybe very carefully with the polisher) if you *need* to for it to match the surrounding paint. One of those case-by-case things.



Unless you have reason to think the paint is thin in such spots, and unless you have some hideous marring that you want to correct as much as possible, I'd just get some medium/mild product and pads and start off taking things kinda easy while you get a feel for the polisher. In other words, don't go all Autopian on yourself right out of the gate ;)
 
IIRC, you're not too far from me. If you want, come down to Concord on a Sunday and we can dial in a test spot for your car. After that, skip the pre-packaged kits, since they usually have stuff you won't need anyway. If you're only doing your car, we can see what works best and you can order what you KNOW will work.



And yes, get a smaller backing plate too!
 
mikenap said:
IIRC, you're not too far from me. If you want, come down to Concord on a Sunday and we can dial in a test spot for your car. After that, skip the pre-packaged kits, since they usually have stuff you won't need anyway. If you're only doing your car, we can see what works best and you can order what you KNOW will work.



And yes, get a smaller backing plate too!
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Each one; Teach one :thumbs_up:
 
mikenap said:
IIRC, you're not too far from me. If you want, come down to Concord on a Sunday and we can dial in a test spot for your car. After that, skip the pre-packaged kits, since they usually have stuff you won't need anyway. If you're only doing your car, we can see what works best and you can order what you KNOW will work.



And yes, get a smaller backing plate too!
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That sounds great...where in Concord? I could come down Sunday because I work Saturday...You;ll see how terrible my roof and hood is..*LOL*
 
PrinceHoliday said:
That sounds great...where in Concord? I could come down Sunday because I work Saturday...You;ll see how terrible my roof and hood is..*LOL*
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I'll PM you later today so we can see when a good time would be. I'm on the south side of Concord, technically in Huntersville. Just a stone's throw from Metrolina Greenhouses.
 
Saw Mikenapp today for the information and help.! Was glad he offered the help and I came through. Got alot of tips and information and also what products would work on my car!! :dance also got to do a little beginner paint correction myself :Fermani: Thanks for the help Mike and I would recommend anybody for his services. Thumbs Up!!!
 
PrinceHoliday said:
Saw Mikenapp today for the information and help.! Was glad he offered the help and I came through. Got alot of tips and information and also what products would work on my car!! :dance also got to do a little beginner paint correction myself :Fermani: Thanks for the help Mike and I would recommend anybody for his services. Thumbs Up!!!
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Thanks Charles! It was a pleasure to meet you today, and fun dialing in a process for your car. Let me know if you have any other questions or need any more help.



Here's something for you!

DSCN1134.jpg


PrinceHoliday(Charles) going at it!







You picked it up easily. I have no doubt you'll get that car looking great!
 
mikenap said:
Thanks Charles! It was a pleasure to meet you today, and fun dialing in a process for your car. Let me know if you have any other questions or need any more help.



Here's something for you!

DSCN1134.jpg


PrinceHoliday(Charles) going at it!







You picked it up easily. I have no doubt you'll get that car looking great!
Click to expand...



*LOL* Thanks...camera work not that bad after all!..*LOL* Oh..wanted to ask...I think you told me but forgot..

What wax do you suggest and Ive looked where Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant was applied before or after (I dont remember) a wax on one of the other detailers paint corrections...I have the Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant currently. Is it necessary to apply a wax in addition to the Blackfire?



Here was the link I was looking at awhile back...on this and their LSP..http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-...lack-srt-8-jeep-cherokee-unique-car-care.html
 
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