Wool and RMG

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imported_DennisH

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e2kWool_Texture_White.jpg


Edge Ultrafine Polish. One of a kind: a silky 100% lambswool pad that adds a mirror-like glow. Costs more—and worth it!



Plus This



yhst-19076222300531_1958_10239091


RMG



Using a Metoba and 700 RPM...



I'm I crazy or would this product and pad combo improve the looks of 106ff and black LC pad? I will be using Victoria Concours as a LSP. Or just use RMG and PC with blue or black pad?:buffing:
 
Well just after posting UPS showed up with my wool pads so I gave it a try. Not a real good out come, one of three things I think went wrong;

1 RMG and white lambs wool pad just weren’t made to work together.

2 I used to much product.

3 I just don’t know how to use wool and a rotary.

I leaning toward number 3. What it did is the pad soak up a lot RMG and was hard to control for the very beginning, wanted to move in a half arc. I didn’t have any troubles with LC black pad with control so this related to wool. I did prime the pad with XMT pad conditioner and used a spur to clean up the pad before I started. I put a ring of product on the pad to prime. After priming I used 4 inch long bead about the size of pencil per half panel. Seems that when I washed out the pad there was a lot product left in the pad. Oh well still a lot to learn.

RMG Seem to improve the looks of just LC black pad and 106ff but I getting the same look with a PC and blue or black pad with RMG. I will try again at another time but need to get this car done before the weekend and I’m running out of time.
 
A lot of people finish with wool. This wekeend I used 1.5" wool with Compound Moose but went to Red Moose Machine Glaze with a black finessing pad. Came out very good. Then I applied Carnuaba Moose via Cyclo.
 
Danase said:
A lot of people finish with wool. This wekeend I used 1.5" wool with Compound Moose but went to Red Moose Machine Glaze with a black finessing pad. Came out very good. Then I applied Carnuaba Moose via Cyclo.
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You are just confirming my suspect ions – number 3 was the most likely cause of my problems.



By the way thanks for getting my package out yesterday, looking forward to it arriving.:spot
 
Danase said:
A lot of people finish with wool. This wekeend I used 1.5" wool with Compound Moose but went to Red Moose Machine Glaze with a black finessing pad. Came out very good. Then I applied Carnuaba Moose via Cyclo.
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Ehh, why didn't you finish with wool??
 
DennisH said:
e2kWool_Texture_White.jpg


Edge Ultrafine Polish. One of a kind: a silky 100% lambswool pad that adds a mirror-like glow. Costs more—and worth it!



Plus This



yhst-19076222300531_1958_10239091


RMG



Using a Metoba and 700 RPM...



I'm I crazy or would this product and pad combo improve the looks of 106ff and black LC pad? I will be using Victoria Concours as a LSP. Or just use RMG and PC with blue or black pad?:buffing:
Click to expand...



To quote Santa Clause " Not a snowballs chance in Hades "!!!!!!!!!!!!!



The finish you get is directly related to how well you polished/prepped the paint before you apply "any" kind of sealant/wax/mumbo jumbo.

After the preparation is "Correct", the wax/sealant/whatever, will provide different looks and protection depending on the product. Preparation is everything!!

You have to consider what kind of "LOOK" you are looking for. A lot of people really like the sealant type look which is a "BRIGHT" type of look. Others like the "SOFT look of Depth" that you get from a great Carnuba wax based product.



I really love wool, but as a final finishing substance I sincerely think the proper selection of "Foam" pad is light years ahead of what is currently available as a truly ultra finishing pad. Different strokes for different folks, but this is how the Autopia experts taught me, and I am completely satisfied!!

Changeling
 
SpoiledMan said:
Wool for finishing? The glaze is likely to hide some things from you.
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That's my opinion (based on experience) too. Alot of high volume detail shops think they can finish with wool too but it usually comes back on them. Even if someone claims they can *finish* with a cutting wool pad with heavy cut compound doesn't mean it's looking it's very best. It's all pretty subjective based on one's ability to see a difference. :geez
 
David Fermani said:
That's my opinion (based on experience) too. Alot of high volume detail shops think they can finish with wool too but it usually comes back on them. Even if someone claims they can *finish* with a cutting wool pad with heavy cut compound doesn't mean it's looking it's very best. It's all pretty subjective based on one's ability to see a difference. :geez
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After using the RMG and the white wool pad I was really please – seemed to have deepened the shine and as RMG does darken the paint. After doing the fenders and hood I pulled it outside and you could some really light spider webbing in the paint that wasn’t there before. So I ended redoing everything that was done with the wool pad but this time I used the Metabo with a grey LC pad and POR85RD 3.1 at about 1000 RPM. I used about 5 pounds of pressure to start and let up to the weight of the Metabo and I still being impressed and the finishing qualities of a rotary. The rest of the car was done with 106ff. Remember it is just a hobby to me and speed doesn’t mean as much as quality and time isn’t a factor. All I can say that I would of never known if I didn’t try!!!
 
I have to throw in my usual "I love to finish with wool!" statement.



As I've stated time and time again ( I know, you guys are sick of hearing it. Sheesh, I hope I don't get accused of being a shill), the white and blue wool finishing pads from Edge are truly awesome.



Cut: purple foamed wool or edge yellow with SIP 2.0

Finish: green (for really hard clears), blue or white wool with 106FF.



Voila, one perfectly corrected and very shiny car. This recipe works on most vehicles you'll come accross. More severe defects/scratches would, of course, require more aggressiveness on the cutting step. Lately, I've been using green with 106ff then blue with 106ff for an amazing finish.



Using the white pad with any non-abrasive glaze, etc. might improve the look, and might help to cover up any remaining defects.
 
SuperBee364 said:
I have to throw in my usual "I love to finish with wool!" statement.



As I've stated time and time again ( I know, you guys are sick of hearing it. Sheesh, I hope I don't get accused of being a shill), the white and blue wool finishing pads from Edge are truly awesome.



Cut: purple foamed wool or edge yellow with SIP 2.0

Finish: green (for really hard clears), blue or white wool with 106FF.



Voila, one perfectly corrected and very shiny car. This recipe works on most vehicles you'll come accross. More severe defects/scratches would, of course, require more aggressiveness on the cutting step. Lately, I've been using green with 106ff then blue with 106ff for an amazing finish.



Using the white pad with any non-abrasive glaze, etc. might improve the look, and might help to cover up any remaining defects.
Click to expand...



Maybe after RMG didn't work for me I should flipped the pad and tried 106ff or 85rd. Oh well still and lot to learn - spend a day without learning something is a day of your life wasted.
 
DennisH said:
After using the RMG and the white wool pad I was really please – seemed to have deepened the shine and as RMG does darken the paint. After doing the fenders and hood I pulled it outside and you could some really light spider webbing in the paint that wasn’t there before.
Click to expand...

Dennis - What would have happended if you did this on your black car in your avatar??:scared: :bawling:
 
David Fermani said:
That's my opinion (based on experience) too. Alot of high volume detail shops think they can finish with wool too but it usually comes back on them. Even if someone claims they can *finish* with a cutting wool pad with heavy cut compound doesn't mean it's looking it's very best. It's all pretty subjective based on one's ability to see a difference. :geez
Click to expand...

I agree with you David 100%.



Wool is really meant for cutting. Foam is meant for finishing. I can really make a car come out excellent with wool, but deep down in the paint there will be marring. The nature of wool is meant to cut safe and fast.



If you think it looks excellent after a wool pad and polish, then take a polish/finish pad with a finish polish and try that. I am 100% sure it will bump the gloss even higher and leave the finish close to 100% depending on how much you finesse it.



My secret to the whole perfect finish is after I prep the paint is to finisse it with finish foam till it is breathtaking.
 
David Fermani said:
That's my opinion (based on experience) too. Alot of high volume detail shops think they can finish with wool too but it usually comes back on them. Even if someone claims they can *finish* with a cutting wool pad with heavy cut compound doesn't mean it's looking it's very best. It's all pretty subjective based on one's ability to see a difference. :geez
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+1 on that.
 
Dennis, you have some amazing cars that are in amazing condition. When I do show cars like this, I use 106ff on a megs polish pad and/or megs finish pad and finesse the finish at 1200 and then once broken down I will bump the speed down to 800 rpm and make sure it is beyond flawless. Optional glazes (not really needed at this point as the paint should be at it's maximum level) I would put on with a pc and a finish pad at #3. Wax or sealant by hand.



Ryan
 
rydawg said:
Dennis, you have some amazing cars that are in amazing condition. When I do show cars like this, I use 106ff on a megs polish pad and/or megs finish pad and finesse the finish at 1200 and then once broken down I will bump the speed down to 800 rpm and make sure it is beyond flawless. Optional glazes (not really needed at this point as the paint should be at it's maximum level) I would put on with a pc and a finish pad at #3. Wax or sealant by hand.



Ryan
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That was close to what I did, since it was my first time with rotary I used the 106ff and the LC Black pad instead of the Megs Polishing except and one running board I had to use the LC White pad on a scuff (darn little kids standing the running boards - the parents ought to shot - kids will be kids i guess). I used the 1 setting on the Metabo which should about 700 RPM. I do like the way that 95rd finish also, seems to do better at the lower speed than 106ff.
 
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