Witch has more power the flex 3401 or the RUPES 21 machine?

Drdetail12

Drdetail12

New member
I'm in the market to buy another polisher. But I don't know witch one to buy?! Can someone help me out of what they think the better machine is for compounding & polishing cars.

- thanks nick.
 
If you wetsand more and doing more aggressive refinishing, a rotary + wool is a cant miss combo.

If you do more finishing/polishing the rupes might be better. The biggest deciding factor is your experience, preference, and what exactly you're working with on a daily basis.
 
I have both as well. The Rupes 21 requires a bit of patience on curved panels. It is quite common for the backing plate to stop spinning, so you'll need to be constantly adjusting your technique.

However, the Rupes 21 is far superior in terms of ergonomics and NVH. It can also use MF pads, which the Flex cannot. I personally think the Rupes works best with MF pads and the Flex does best with foam.
 
I do a lot of paint correction... Using foam pads. I don't usually wet sand. So I think the flex is the way to go. But does one have more power then the other? Like Rpms wise? Also does one cut faster then the other if using the same compound?

-thanks nick.
 
Both are great tools and there is no wrong answer. I have more experience with the FLEX, and thus can get better results with that machine. In terms of correction power... The RUPES is a little better on flat panels, the FLEX on contours.
 
Personally I like the Rupes better. That being said I forced my self to use it for around 100 hours or so before I got where I could get the same results I was getting with a after a very short learning curve. From what I can tell the rupes is a very complicated machine to master. I watch my employees struggle with it all the time. I know me personally I can get same results with a rupes or flex. The rupes just goes faster for me. Unless your willing to practice a LOT the flex will be easier to use.
 
Jsmooth said:
From what I can tell the rupes is a very complicated machine to master. I watch my employees struggle with it all the time.
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What do you think the reason is for struggling? Pushing it too hard to slow it down? I find the Rupes 15 benefited from a lighter touch (less pressure) and lower than normal marked speed (dial calibration is off anyway).

There is one consultant detailer at one seller that seems to think you need to use extreme pressure to get results with any DA forced or not.
 
flex ftw
i know the flex doesnt play nice with mf disc but they have LC purple wool that cuts more than MF on rupes w washer mod.
and you have the LC BP system. Rupes you only have a choice between 5.5 or 6.5 pads.
 
Bunky said:
What do you think the reason is for struggling? Pushing it too hard to slow it down? I find the Rupes 15 benefited from a lighter touch (less pressure) and lower than normal marked speed (dial calibration is off anyway).

There is one consultant detailer at one seller that seems to think you need to use extreme pressure to get results with any DA forced or not.
Click to expand...

I totally agree with light pressure, considering pressure ='s a ton of heat from a machine that already likes to get paint hot. I find using barely any pressure and the lowest speed possible to keep rotation and a smooth feel works best for me. That being said I constantly am adjusting speed setting while polishing with the rupes. My guys at work blow up pads or collapse pads, or have trouble keeping rotation. It's heat build up is much higher than even a rotary from what I've see . I think this the biggest part of the learning curve, took me a while. Too much heat makes polishes preform poor(I think??? Todd??? Explain!) and it's really annoying to destroy so many pad why figuring it out. I think I went through something like 3k in pads in 3 months getting use to it.
 
psynx said:
flex ftw
i know the flex doesnt play nice with mf disc but they have LC purple wool that cuts more than MF on rupes w washer mod.
and you have the LC BP system. Rupes you only have a choice between 5.5 or 6.5 pads.
Click to expand...

A standard Purple Foamed Wool Pad on a FLEX will cut like a banshee. :bigups
 
It's too bad you have to fight the damn Flex 3401 when polishing. I hate the machine for that reason. Can't deny the forced rotation, but still, I don't like it.

I just ordered a RUPES LHR 12E Duetto from ACC. I'm excited to use it! Got the washer mod ready to go...


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Jeez, I'm really on the fence about this. I have used PC, PCXP, Cyclo, Flex DA and Rotaries (Makita and DeWalt) and I know you have adjust your technique with each type, throw in the variables of pad type and polishes, add in the multitude of paints (age, type, condition) and well, you have some choices now don't you!
I had thought that the Rupes was the holy grail after reading some of the comments, the price held me back and sometimes that's a good thing. Now, not so sure. I firmly believe that some machines just work better for some people because they just "fit" their style better. It's like pool or golf, some guys just seem to take to it like a duck to water. Me? I'm old enough to realize that I have to use what is comfortable to me and what I like to use, so it doesn't feel so much like dreaded work.

Rotaries - smooth, can correct nicely, but you must tape up, cover up - or maybe you enjoy cleaning up splatter, and it's tricky in tight spots. But, if you do boats -you GOT to have one!

PC and it's cousins, the vibes man, the vibes, after a long day with that, my hands are hurtin! But, easy to use, and with the right pads/polish, will do the job.

Flex DA, honestly, I tried to like it, my buddy from up in NC swore I'd have to get it, wrong! that damn counter rotation and high pitched whine on 5 -6, made me hand it back over after 15 minutes. Thanks but No Thanks

Cyclo - odd machine, on and off, simple enough, good on big flat surfaces like hoods and roofs of Suburbans. The one I tried had those Edge pads and every time I tried to change one, seems like I always pinched my thumb in it. Jury is out...

Rupes????????

OK Todd, time for you to do a "How to Properly Use a Rupes" video or write up or both.
 
With the discovery of TUFF BUFF LAMBSWOOL pads and the Flex 3401, the cut doesn't get much better than that! I've struggled to find anything that cuts VERY well with the 3401, but the TUFF BUFF LAMBSWOOL pads solved that problem. If I need less cut, CCS foam pads work great with the 3401.
 
I dont understand why there is fighting associated with the Flex 3401VRG....
It just rotates counter clockwise, thats all....
If you can allow it to do that and not resist it, its easy to use

Try this - On all other machines, you normally start from left to right, because of the clockwise pat rotation, right?
Well, how about starting from right to left using the Flex 3401VRG because it rotates counter clockwise... Will that make it easier and less fighting?

Perhaps I may just be ambidextrous or something but I have no problems using the Flex 3401VRG.. It goes wherever I want it...

Good luck with this !

Merry Christmas !!!
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
I dont understand why there is fighting associated with the Flex 3401VRG....
It just rotates counter clockwise, thats all....
If you can allow it to do that and not resist it, its is easy to use

Dan F
Click to expand...
When some mention walking you would think it would run off the down the street and need to chase it down. It does oppose rapid changes in directions compared to non-forced DA's but it delivers with consistent results.

I still believe it has the shortest learning curve compared to non-forced DA;s but it works consistently. You just hold it flat against the paint iand it works. It does not require attention to pressure to keep pad rotating, curved surfaces, etc. Like the Rupes it has larger tail (body) so does need some manuevering it than the smaller less capable DA's.

I have the Rupes 15 which is quite smooth but still believe the Flex will be the one I would rely on to last.
 
Bunky said:
It does oppose changes in rapid directions compared to some DA's but it delivers with consistent results. I still believe it has the shortest learning curve but it works consistently. It does not require attention to pressure to keep pad rotating, curved surfaces, etc.
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I agree.
 
here's my take on this.
I was struggling with the same question the other day, and people adviced me to try both, so I did.

I think the Rupes doesn't cut out any more often then an other DA like the griot for example on curved panels. I only found you have to apply less downwards pressure, which makes that yu can still use your arms after a whole day of buffing :D

I think, and don't kill me for this, that people who have used the flex often, have forgotten the feeling of playing with pressure on curved panels, as the flex does it all, and have lost some of their technique to work with an other DA.

long story short, I added the Rupes to my wishlist, just deciding on the 21 or the 15 now...
will use the griot with a 4" pad for the smaller sections
 
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