Winter routine and Collinite 476

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saralee

New member
Hey everyone!



I am new to the forum but I've been reading up on everything so here is my plan for the winter for my car.



1.) Meg's claybar to clean the paint

2.) Klasses AIO to prep the surface

3.) Collinite 476 for the finish



I am pretty confident about the first two steps. However I have some questions about the Collinite 476 wax.



How do you remove the wax since it repels detergent?

How many coats of Collinite can I put on before it gets too thick?

How long do I have to wait in between coats of Collinite?



Thanks,

Scott
 
I believe between the clay and the the AIO the old wax will be gone and the surface will be ready for your new coat(s) of wax.



I think at least two coats for even coverage, but a quick search on the term "collinite" or "476" will give you an idea of how many coats others put and the wait time, if any, between coats.
 
Very good choices for winter prep. Clay and AIO will take off the wax when it is time. I do 2 layers when I use 476. This insures even coverage. you can also use something along the lines of P21S Total Auto Wash to strip it off.
 
I go for at least 2 coats if I'm doing a winter prep. The wax will eventually wear off after a few months, as do all waxes. If you really wanted to strip the wax, you would then use diluted isopropyl alcohol. It won't ever get too thick, but others have reported at anything after 3 layers won't really produce any improvement in durability/looks. I generally like to wait a day or two before each coat of Collinite. This allows the wax layer to harden, so that layering is more successful.
 
'Thanks for the replies so far.\r\n\r\nOne more question. I also got some ONR for washing in the Winter. Will ONR wear down the wax faster than a regular car wash with Meg\'s Gold Class (what I use right now).\r\n\r\nI am also applying these products by hand since my car is relatively new. Should I get just the yellow and blue pads or would a kit like this be better:\r\neShine Canada: Customizable HandJobber Essentials Kit'
 
I'm actually going to be putting Collinite 476 on top of FK 1000P for the winter. I know it seems redundant, but I'm told it produces great results (shine and protection).



FK 1119 clean down

FK 2180 Sealant

FK 1000P Wax

Collinite 476

FK 425



That's my plan. I'm tired just writing it! :buffing:
 
The only thing I wonder about using AIO as a base... if a series of products is as durable as the weakest one, and AIO does, in fact, lay down a very small degree of protection, wouldn't that suggest that the 476 would be flaking off as the AIO did?
 
Veri said:
The only thing I wonder about using AIO as a base... if a series of products is as durable as the weakest one, and AIO does, in fact, lay down a very small degree of protection, wouldn't that suggest that the 476 would be flaking off as the AIO did?
Click to expand...



The above combo - AIO & 476 - the AIO was recommeded to me by Chris at eshine so I hope he's right :ca



I just placed the order at eshine.ca with the following:

-Klasse AIO

-Collinite 476

-ONR

-P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner

-2 x Tornado towel

-2 x yellow pad

-2 x blue pad



I am cutting really close to doing the detailing as the weather is getting cold by the day here in Ontario. Hopefully I will receive the goodies by next weekend.
 
Veri said:
The only thing I wonder about using AIO as a base... if a series of products is as durable as the weakest one, and AIO does, in fact, lay down a very small degree of protection, wouldn't that suggest that the 476 would be flaking off as the AIO did?
Click to expand...







I don't think you have to worry about that. Ive had great results using IW845 over KAIO and KSG. It is definatly worth putting the AIO under to clean the surface. maybe someone else can add more. Good Luck!
 
Veri said:
The only thing I wonder about using AIO as a base... if a series of products is as durable as the weakest one, and AIO does, in fact, lay down a very small degree of protection, wouldn't that suggest that the 476 would be flaking off as the AIO did?
Click to expand...





Good thinking, but not quite on the mark, at least IME. The minimal protection left by the underlying AIO won't "flake off" but will rather dissipate if/when exposed to the elements, which won't happen with the 476S on top of it. The weak link needs to be exposed to whatever it won't withstand or it doesn't really factor in.



I've used Collinite over all sorts of things, including short-lived glazes, and the durability never appears to be compromised. Kinda surprised me in some cases.



SO I'd say it's not so much a matter of the combos being as durable as their weakest component, but rather as durable as a) their most durable componetn and/or b) the component that's in direct contact with the environment.



But yeah, put a few layers of the 476S on there. Four lasted all winter and then some on my Blazer.



As for what to use before the Collinite, I'd sorta expect it to need something stronger than the AIO. My usual suggestion is something like 1Z PP (which is what I used before the Collinite on the Blazer).
 
One more question for fellow members.



If the paint on my car is relatively new, can I go from claying straight to the wax? Or must I apply polish to further cleanse the surface before the wax goes on?



I just thought it might be redundant to clay and the clean with polish if the paint is in very good shape.



Your thoughts? Thanks.
 
saralee said:
One more question for fellow members.



If the paint on my car is relatively new, can I go from claying straight to the wax? Or must I apply polish to further cleanse the surface before the wax goes on?



I just thought it might be redundant to clay and the clean with polish if the paint is in very good shape.



Your thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...



A lot of people here suggest claying new cars because they do seem to pick up a bunch of crap despite being new.



Polishing couldn't hurt, especially if you've got some dealer-installed scratches/swirls.
 
saralee said:
One more question for fellow members.



If the paint on my car is relatively new, can I go from claying straight to the wax? Or must I apply polish to further cleanse the surface before the wax goes on?



I just thought it might be redundant to clay and the clean with polish if the paint is in very good shape.



Your thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...



I think if your paint is new and you don't have swirls or scratches, I would just clay and then use a cleaner like Klasse AIO. Then top with a sealant or wax. This is what I did with my new car.



If you do have swirls or scratches, Polishing is ok.
 
saralee said:
I also got some ONR for washing in the Winter. Will ONR wear down the wax faster than a regular car wash with Meg\'s Gold Class (what I use right now)
Click to expand...

I don't know for certain about the "wear" but I would guess either no difference, or ONR will be better, especially since ONR leaves something behind that shows a nice shine and some slickness.
 
Thanks everyone for their responses.



The weather here in Canada is coming down quickly. Is it a bad idea to detail in cool weather? If I get my products from eshine during the week, I will definitely spend my Saturday applying the wax on? Is it possible to do AIO and Collinite 476 in one day?
 
saralee said:
Thanks everyone for their responses.



The weather here in Canada is coming down quickly. Is it a bad idea to detail in cool weather? If I get my products from eshine during the week, I will definitely spend my Saturday applying the wax on? Is it possible to do AIO and Collinite 476 in one day?
Click to expand...





I would suggest you drop the AIO and use Opti-Seal instead, OS flashes over much quicker than AIO and you can apply the 476S a hour after OS is applied. eShine carries it as well !
 
More questions:



1.) AIO is mostly WOWO so I take it I will take a 30 min break after cleaning the surface with AIO and then start waxing?



2.) When I apply 476 by hand, do I have to wet the pad with water to make the application easier?



3.) Do I have to wait until the 476 hazes before I buff it off? Will it haze to a white colour? (There maybe instrusction on the bottom of the container but I haven't received the product yet).



4.) Since 476 is very durable how do I clean the applicator after I finish waxing? Just water and detergent?
 
saralee said:
More questions:



1.) AIO is mostly WOWO so I take it I will take a 30 min break after cleaning the surface with AIO and then start waxing?
Click to expand...



Or don't take the break. I've never noticed any problems either way.



2.) When I apply 476 by hand, do I have to wet the pad with water to make the application easier?
Click to expand...



You can dampen the pad, but it's not absolutely necessary. FWIW I do dampen it, but not too much.



3.) Do I have to wait until the 476 hazes before I buff it off? Will it haze to a white colour? (There maybe instrusction on the bottom of the container but I haven't received the product yet).
Click to expand...



It's more durable if you let it haze, but some people still do the W-O-W-O because it's easier. If you apply it properly thin, there won't be much residue visible on the finish, so you have to work methodically and carefully to get a good application in the absence of visual cues.



4.) Since 476 is very durable how do I clean the applicator after I finish waxing? Just water and detergent?
Click to expand...



I use Dawn Power Dissolver or an APC. It doesn't seem to matter if a little wax residue remains in the application pad; it's not like it dries all hard and causes marring the next time you use it. Hint: clean it before the wax dries.
 
saralee said:
More questions:





2.) When I apply 476 by hand, do I have to wet the pad with water to make the application easier?



3.) Do I have to wait until the 476 hazes before I buff it off? Will it haze to a white colour? (There maybe instrusction on the bottom of the container but I haven't received the product yet).



4.) Since 476 is very durable how do I clean the applicator after I finish waxing? Just water and detergent?
Click to expand...



I usually apply a layer of 476 by hand (didn't read instructions which state to wet pad before using) and let it "cure" overnight. If applied in a thin layer, it is a breeze to wipe off. If you have problems wiping off, I would suggest using a QD to help in the removal. I usually fill the sink with hot water and detergent and let that do most of the work in removing the wax from the pad. I then wash with the other MF towels using vinegar in the rinse. That has worked for me with no residue in the pad to affect later wax application.
 
Thanks Accumulator and EclassBenz for answering my questions!



EclassBenz, when you use a QD to help remove the wax, how does the QD actually help and does the QD take off some wax as well?



I will be doing my detailing outside in the car port in open air, does it matter that the temperature is kind of cool (5c - 10c). I am afraid I waited to long to do my detailing before the winter hits.
 
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