Winter Protection on Daily Drivers
- Thread starter JustA5.0
- Start date
Klasse SG lasted fine on my car, but then again the paint and the car was absolutely brand new. '06 WRX and I put the first coat on within a month of getting her in April. I think I put one or two more coats on before it got cold, and come March water was still beading. Not like the first day, but still beading nonetheless.
I did not use the AIO because the car was brand new and did not need to be cleaned. I asked the dealer not to put their crap on it and they oblidged.
Speaking of which, I have a date with some pine sap and coat #3 of SG, preparing for the winter.
I did not use the AIO because the car was brand new and did not need to be cleaned. I asked the dealer not to put their crap on it and they oblidged.
Speaking of which, I have a date with some pine sap and coat #3 of SG, preparing for the winter.
Accumulator
Well-known member
JustA5.0 said:
While I sorta knee-jerk about anything from Turtle Wax, they oughta be OK. I'm guessing that you don't want a pad with any functional cut of its own, just the ability to let the PolySeal do its thing. So my wild guess (I'm not familiar with either part of this combo
) is that it'll work OK.It's part of TW Ultimate line, which I've read decent feedback on here about the various products in that line.
But that aside, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about between the generic 'Blue' terry foam pads (usually say for Polish/Compounds on packaging), and the generic 'Yellow' (for Carnauba/Sealants) foam pads. Will the 'Yellow' ones be ok to apply poli-seal, or must I purchase the coarser 'Blue' ones?
I am hoping the 'Yellow' applicators will be ok, as applying even hand pressure using a foam pad is troublesome at best. Can't afford a UDM/PC atm.
But that aside, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about between the generic 'Blue' terry foam pads (usually say for Polish/Compounds on packaging), and the generic 'Yellow' (for Carnauba/Sealants) foam pads. Will the 'Yellow' ones be ok to apply poli-seal, or must I purchase the coarser 'Blue' ones?
I am hoping the 'Yellow' applicators will be ok, as applying even hand pressure using a foam pad is troublesome at best. Can't afford a UDM/PC atm.
Harry Houdini
New member
DAC17 said:
PoliGlow - An End to Boat Wax
(Not recommended for automobiles)
Not recommended for brand new boats (up to 2 years old) (for new boats, use the Four Seasons Boat Wax)
Accumulator
Well-known member
JustA5.0 said:
Actually, I gotta admit that I do *NOT* know what pads you're talking about
I really don't know from anything when it comes to OTC products. Never even seen the ones you're referring to. SO...this is true guesswork.I'd bank on the yellow ones being OK. I'm generally a fan of letting the product do the work and using as mild a pad as possible (although I generally prefer cutless/mild polishing pads on a machine instead of finishing pads). Note that others go the opposite way and use aggressive pads more often than I do.
SuperBee364
New member
Collinite Insulator Wax is great stuff. Some people don't like the look of it, but I think it's very warm and carnauba-y. Wears like iron and provides very good elemental protection.
All this talk about winter protection and it's got me thinking I want to start the winterizing myself. I've been leaning closer to mid November but.......before I know it, winter's right around the corner. I did a mild winter start last week by treating the rubber seals with ghummi pledge.
We had a very mild winter last year.
Hmmmm......476, 845 or #16 .
I have Zaino is my stash but don't want to invest in ZFX ....
U know that feeling where u swear u are never going to invest in more products, but focus on process....which is what I told myself this year. I'm taking a really hard look at Ultima as possibly a tester for winter protection.
We had a very mild winter last year.
Hmmmm......476, 845 or #16 .
I have Zaino is my stash but don't want to invest in ZFX ....
U know that feeling where u swear u are never going to invest in more products, but focus on process....which is what I told myself this year. I'm taking a really hard look at Ultima as possibly a tester for winter protection.
2StepsAhead
New member
DG 105 hands down, I used to use Collinite IW...it was my first non-otc wax and I thought it was amazing...but DG 105 holds up SO much better on my cars and its pretty cheap too. Just make sure you put it on VERY think or else it looks like NXT where you can get some dark spots where it looks like the wax hasnt dried completely.
Update:
I have poli-sealed the paint on the blue daily driver, but didn't have time to do the wheels before my afternoon shift. It rained during work, and after stopping I went out to check the water beading, and realized 'duh, I forgot to do my glass and lighting'. Which got me thinking, would it be ok to poli-seal and 476s everything (minus the tires)? The car has mostly the hard smooth rubber moulding (urethane?), but also textured top-half bumpers, and a few textured trim plastic accents. Anything you recommend avoiding putting poli-seal or 476s on? The only possible problems I could see would be white marks, and maybe not a great idea to wax the windshield, but would like to read some more 'expert' opinions.
I have poli-sealed the paint on the blue daily driver, but didn't have time to do the wheels before my afternoon shift. It rained during work, and after stopping I went out to check the water beading, and realized 'duh, I forgot to do my glass and lighting'. Which got me thinking, would it be ok to poli-seal and 476s everything (minus the tires)? The car has mostly the hard smooth rubber moulding (urethane?), but also textured top-half bumpers, and a few textured trim plastic accents. Anything you recommend avoiding putting poli-seal or 476s on? The only possible problems I could see would be white marks, and maybe not a great idea to wax the windshield, but would like to read some more 'expert' opinions.
stiffdogg06
New member
I wax/seal my windows.
If the trim is HARD plastic with a very distinct clear/hard coating, go ahead and put wax on them... I don't, however, put wax on my textured trim. I save that for my Bumper/Molding renew.
If you do have textured trim, do a little spot not noticeable and see if you white residue left on the trim...:clap:
If the trim is HARD plastic with a very distinct clear/hard coating, go ahead and put wax on them... I don't, however, put wax on my textured trim. I save that for my Bumper/Molding renew.
If you do have textured trim, do a little spot not noticeable and see if you white residue left on the trim...:clap:
The trim/mouldings are mostly hard rubber, seems typical for most german cars. Unlike the hard plastic which I know what you're describing, as I have that type all over my Ford.
Do you wax your windshield specifically though? I fear possible blade chatter, on those salted road mild snowy days, when your w/s gets a constant coating of salt.
Do you wax your windshield specifically though? I fear possible blade chatter, on those salted road mild snowy days, when your w/s gets a constant coating of salt.
Accumulator
Well-known member
JustA5.0 said:
I *generally* don't get white staining from 476S, but their 845 is a safer bet. I agree with
stiffdogg06- you'd better test an inconspicuous spot first. And I recommend the W-O-W-O method for this.
Dunno about the PolySeal...
I don't wax or seal my glass, but I wouldn't expect problems on the side glass or backlight. Wouldn't do the windshield though, but that's just me.
Yeah I'll just skip the windshield.
Accumulator, not to put you 'on the spot' here, but while reading up on 476s threads, I came across two varying posts by you. One from '03 said, that you wipe-on-pause-wipe off, because not letting it fully haze/dry made removal a breeze. Another from '06 said you apply your waxes to the entire car, (including 476s) before buffing. Also, users in the older threads seemed to complain a lot more about 476 toughness to buff off, while the newer threads shared similar views that it was easy to buff off. What's the deal?
For my first coat, I applied to a section, applied to next section, buffed off first section, applied to next, buffed previous section, and continued alternating over the car. I'd say it was sitting on there for 3ish minutes each section, and buffed off with ease. However, for my second coat I'd sure like to wax the entire car, and than buff it off as it's a lot quicker. Seems like I'm applying it thin enough, so I should be ok. Your thoughts?
Accumulator, not to put you 'on the spot' here, but while reading up on 476s threads, I came across two varying posts by you. One from '03 said, that you wipe-on-pause-wipe off, because not letting it fully haze/dry made removal a breeze. Another from '06 said you apply your waxes to the entire car, (including 476s) before buffing. Also, users in the older threads seemed to complain a lot more about 476 toughness to buff off, while the newer threads shared similar views that it was easy to buff off. What's the deal?
For my first coat, I applied to a section, applied to next section, buffed off first section, applied to next, buffed previous section, and continued alternating over the car. I'd say it was sitting on there for 3ish minutes each section, and buffed off with ease. However, for my second coat I'd sure like to wax the entire car, and than buff it off as it's a lot quicker. Seems like I'm applying it thin enough, so I should be ok. Your thoughts?
should be OK. I did the whole car w/ 476s and let it sit for like an hour before buffing off. It left some streaks and stuff but i just left it and then washed the car after a few days. I like doing it that way because I fear marring the nice finish if I try and buff the wax off too hard.