Winter abuse test

LUSTR said:
Accumulator,



Of the 4 (Collinite 915, 476, 845 and FK1000P) which would you say is the most durable, best to purchase, etc. I'm looking into getting the FK1000P and probably 845 but it seems all the Collinite waxes have same reviews, followers, durability, etc...



I've never tried 915. My really long-winded $0.02 on the other three follows:



FK1000P- is the most durable if the three IME and it sheds dirt the best, or at least it keeps shedding dirt well the longest. Very "sealanty" look though, and not the look I'd want on certain paints if I were gonna be particular about that. Wait a long time between layers lest you get psuedo-holograms (which aren't the worst to sort out, but are still a PIA). Simply a cool product..."paste sealant", and my hands-down choice for durability/etc. when you can only do one coat.





But people who think 845 has the wrong look (let alone those who feel that way about 476S!) probably won't like the look, which has been accurately described as "adding extra clearcoat". At least it doesn't seem to tone down the sharpness of the look the way many layers of KSG sometimes can. Oh, and no...it doesn't really look like Zaino IMO either.



Eh, buy a tin...it'll last forever and if you don't like it you can use it on wheels (great product for that).



845- is also on the sealanty side IMO; supposedly it contains "resins" (saw that on another forum ages ago and the poster impressed me as somebody credible). It also sheds dirt well and for pretty long, just not in the same league as FK1000P. The way it works on everything and is sooo user-friendly is the clincher IMO. I'm using it on my beater-Audi, which has *SEVERELY* compromised paint (as in, really needs a paintjob badly) and it's working great.



I can't say why it sometimes lasts sooo long and other times doesn't. No, it's not something as simple as the prep :nixweiss Some paints just don't seem to be a good match for it.



476S- has gradually fallen into disfavor with me. It's still good stuff, and the most durable pastewax I've ever used. Very good for when you're only doing one coat and don't want to use FK1000P (as a wax, it's a bit more forgiving of imperfect prep for one thing, doesn't highlight residual marring so much, but see below...). But "layering" or should I say "doing multiple applications" can be problematic and if you ever get pseudo-holograms from it you won't soon forget 'em! (Hint: best solution is to apply 845. Dunno if the 845 hides 'em or removes them via solvent action or what, but it works.) I didn't like it on the beater-Audi because the compromised paint (pits, not-so-micro fissures, etc.) seemed to retain to much residual wax, which caused issues later. It did work out great on the Yukon XLD's Carbon Metallic paint *when the prep was really good* and looked better on that IMO than the FK1000P does. Didn't last nearly as long though, nor did it shed dirt was well for as long.



As with the 845, it doesn't always behave the same on all paints. It just didn't look right on the Yukon until I got the prep *really* good, seemed to mute the metallic. But once I redid it with a better finishing polish job, the same wax looked swell.
 
Accumulator said:
I've never tried 915. My really long-winded $0.02 on the other three follows:

hehe long winded or not--that info is very useful.

I'm thinking that 915 may do away with many issues that the 476 has in terms of application.. I was actually thinking about seeing how 915 layers and see what happens if I put a coat down 1 day apart on a section of the trunk door or bumper..
 
Thanks for the long and informative reply Accum. I guess the best question I can as you specifically is how would you compare 845 and FK1000P to KSG, both via only 1 layer as well as layering 2+? As you already know, we're two of the last few to like and appreciate KSG for it's great durability as well as looks and ease (I think it's fairly easy) of use. That said, I guess it's best if I know how you'd compare the others to KSG...
 
LUSTR said:
I guess the best question I can as you specifically is how would you compare 845 and FK1000P to KSG, both via only 1 layer as well as layering 2+?



not having used ksg while waiting for accums response my guess is going to be--not really worth putting 845 in the mix if durability is the factor--though application is going to the winning factor for it it's just super easy (speaking of 845)



fk1000p with the exception would be the reigning champ in terms of shedding (consistently) but in terms of application--it's a pita, and it leaves an almost hyper bright/clearcoat synthetic look

where if i recall his words right, layered ksg tends to get toned down =]
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
.. my guess is going to be--not really worth putting 845 in the mix if durability is the factor--though application is going to the winning factor for it it's just super easy (speaking of 845)



I generally agree, but if you're only doing one coat, and it's going on an imperfect surface, the 845 is worth considering. It's simply *perfect* on my beater-Audi and would probably be my choice for something like an E36 M3 like I used to have if only because it can go right over all that black plastic trim.

fk1000p with the exception would be the reigning champ in terms of shedding (consistently) but in terms of application--it's a pita, and it leaves an almost hyper bright/clearcoat synthetic look

where if i recall his words right, layered ksg tends to get toned down =]



Yeah, though I didn't find FK1000P to be a PIA to apply. My last tin (in the big "Great White" tin) was a *lot* softer/easier than the stuff I got from FK1 a while back. Gotta be careful about product residue/excess around and on trim though... KSG is much easier in that regard.
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
I'm thinking that 915 may do away with many issues that the 476 has in terms of application.. I was actually thinking about seeing how 915 layers and see what happens if I put a coat down 1 day apart on a section of the trunk door or bumper..



Based on what somebody posted on another forum, I'd only try to layer 915 with some kind of spit-shine technique. It apparently does the "like removes like" solvent action thing in a big way. But then people say that about a lot of LSPs that layer just fine for me, so :nixweiss Guess it's a YMMV thing, probably a matter of some subtle diff in application technique.
 
LUSTR said:
Thanks for the long and informative reply Accum. I guess the best question I can as you specifically is how would you compare 845 and FK1000P to KSG, both via only 1 layer as well as layering 2+? As you already know, we're two of the last few to like and appreciate KSG for it's great durability as well as looks and ease (I think it's fairly easy) of use. That said, I guess it's best if I know how you'd compare the others to KSG...



I wouldn't use KSG if I were only doing one coat. Period. I'd rather use the 845 or FK1000P.



845 is easier but FK1000P is "generally better" IMO.



I too consider KSG to be quite user-friendly. And the way you can use it on trim/etc. with no hassles is a big plus. Even though I used FK1000P on the Yukon, I used KSG on the rubber surfaces of its step-bumper and running boards for that reason.



IF you can layer, then I'd go with either KSG for the protection or FK1000P for the dirt-shedding (and maybe the look). I went with the FK1000P on my Yukon just to see what I thought of it and on that "kinda special" metallic black paint I think I like it better than I would KSG. And I went ahead and put it on the beater-Tahoe too because I only had time for one layer at the time and I thought it'd be better than the 845 (durability/shedding-wise). But KSG was simply perfect on my silver MPV minivan, even though getting six layers on it took forever. If I redo the Tahoe over an extended period I just might go with KSG, but oh man do I like the look and clean-up of FK1000P better.



I guess KSG is now my LSP for cases where I can spend forever layering and don't really care about anything except protection. Hey, maybe I oughta use that on the Crown Vic :think:
 
Accumulator said:
I wouldn't use KSG if I were only doing one coat. Period. I'd rather use the 845 or FK1000P.



845 is easier but FK1000P is "generally better" IMO.

And I went ahead and put it on the beater-Tahoe too because I only had time for one layer at the time and I thought it'd be better than the 845 (durability/shedding-wise). But KSG was simply perfect on my silver MPV minivan, even though getting six layers on it took forever. If I redo the Tahoe over an extended period I just might go with KSG, but oh man do I like the look and clean-up of FK1000P better.



i'm thinking that i might end up replacing my collinite stash for fk1000p
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
i'm thinking that i might end up replacing my collinite stash for fk1000p



Heh heh...yeah...and here I have nearly a case of pre-VOC 476S :o Wish I'd bought that much 845 instead if I had to have lot of Collinite.
 
Leadfootluke said:
How does Pre-VOC compare with the newer stuff?



Beats me, I've never tried the post-VOC 476S :grinno:



I've compared the Pre/Post-VOC 845 and never noticed any functional diffs.
 
2 coats of Blackfire Wet Diamond back in early October. Record snowfall in December here in Minnesota and January has been no slouch either only with frigid temps now below zero. Of course this all means a record amount of salt dumped on the roads. Seems pointless almost to wash as within a few miles the truck is salted up again. But anyways, I had the truck washed today at a full service wash and hood was still beading up strong after 3½ months. So I think the BFWD is holding up to it's claims.
 
Speaking of "Winter Abuse", I drove the beater-Tahoe quite a ways during last Thursday's winter storm (eh, didn't seem all that bad to me :nixweiss ) and yesterday I cleaned it up. It was about as filthy as I've ever had a driver get, looked like I'd been off-roading (where *DID* all that brown [stuff] come from?!?).



Took me nearly *SIX* hours. Roughly two hours on just the wheels/wells/undercarriage.



And yeah, that was *just* washing and drying (oh almost forgot, I did put AG Bumper Care on the running boards). Came out nice and clean though, with no wash induced marring :D But sheesh, that was a lot of work just to wash a dog-hauler.
 
So my sister stopped by today to pick up her dog...and I can't tell, but I think the BMW which I believe has 476 is dead...but for some odd reason, it seemed to always be testy with the BMW paint...*shrugs*
 
Alexshimshimhae- Some paints can be funny like that...I had an older Benz that 476S just didn't last on :nixweiss The one bumpercover on my wife's A8 is picky about waxes too, some are fine but others (that are normally quite durable) need redone after just a few weeks.
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
So my sister stopped by today to pick up her dog...and I can't tell, but I think the BMW which I believe has 476 is dead...but for some odd reason, it seemed to always be testy with the BMW paint...*shrugs*



Did you wash it for her too? I have found that certain waxes look dead after they have been dirty or snowed on, etc until they have been rinsed well and washed again. Again, it may have failed too :wink1:
 
Saturday it was sunny and 26 in Iowa, So I got up and took both the Soob and Mazda down for a wand wash. My wife accused me of spring fever!

The Mazda see's gravel roads besides typical IA winter roads. It was caked with the typical winter soup and gravel dust. I about cry every time I look at the engine bay.



Power washed as much crud off as I could. I noticed how after cleaning off the dirt and grime the water was beading. I've read people say 476 restores it's beading after washing. I believe it now. Looked like it was holding up well.



I then drove it home a few blocks away and broke out my HD Free for a wipe down in my small heated garage. Turned out really nice, left a nice glossy slick clean finish.



I then did my new Outback which has 2 coats of 845 on it applied in

October. I really like how 845 sheds dirt. The dirt pattern/grime/winter soup patterns were much different then 476 to me.

Anyhow after a wand wash, I got it back in the garage for a HD Free wipe down of the painted surfaces, glass, and I used ONR /hot water for the lower plastic panels and wheels.



Because I couldn't resist, I decided to crack open my bottle of HD Poxy and went to town on the paint and windows. A little goes a long way with a moist foam pad.

OMG, it left a very glossy appearance on the paint and added considerable slickness as well.

Sunday I went back out and admired my work.

Nothing is nicer than looking at a "clean car" in the middle of winter.

Slickness had improved overnight.



Hated to drive it to work today knowing it was going to get dirty.

but man did it look nice pulling in to the work parking lot next to all the dirty cars.

We'll see how well HD Poxy holds up for the next 6-8 weeks of IA weather/winter.



I used about 1/2 a bottle of HD Free for both cars.

Not sure if I needed to use that much but I wanted to have plenty of product down to remove the grime left on the paint? I remove cleanly and no streaks.





I liked HD Free enough I ordered another 6 bottles of 2oz concentrate from 3D last week along with some more Uno pads. My order arrived today.

Fast shipping yippeeee.

Thanks 3D!!!



I'm shocked HD discontinued the 2oz concentrate??

That made perfect sense to me for refills and cheaper shipping costs.



845 / 476 are still my go to winter products of choice for now.

I've seen the holograms form layers of 476....

Not as hard to see under layers of winter soup,road salt, brine solution, gravel, etc... for what its worth.
 
Accumulator said:
No issues using it on top of the Collinite, huh?



None I could tell so far. The 2 coats of 845 were going on 3 months. So maybe that has something to do with it adhering to my existing lsp?

I probably could of left the 845 alone, it was still beading well, but wanted to try out my POXY.



Application of POXY was fairly simple, kept it thin, used a damp foam applicator, and it applied effortlessly.

Let it haze for a few minutes and it wiped off clean. No residue or dust.

It was really effortless. I thought it added a nice look to the paint.



As of today the paint still feels slick to the touch with a nice glossy look.

It was -10 actual temp here in IA this morning.



The little bit of road dirt coming off the wheel wells since Sunday morning is flowing on the paint much like the 845 in my opinion. Dirt/water kinda of sheds and not much of it... if that makes sense?
 
reeeko99 said:
The little bit of road dirt coming off the wheel wells since Sunday morning is flowing on the paint much like the 845 in my opinion. Dirt/water kinda of sheds and not much of it... if that makes sense?



Yeah, I know just what you mean. Interesting that it's OK on the Collinite.
 
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