Will a Dawn wash remove all old products?

IME Dawn is extremely *INEFFECTIVE* for LSP removal. I suspect that people often confuse the conditioners/whatever (sorry, I'm no chemist) that it leaves behind, which can interact in different ways with different LSPs, for genuine stripping. Dawn sure doesn't strip LSPs for me, with the possible exception of fragile beauty-waxes.

If you're gonna polish again anyhow, I'd just let the polish cut through it. Unless it's a very fresh/durable/etc. coat of LSP it won't cause any trouble.
 
I imagine that any old product remaining would be instantly removed the minute you applied a polish. If a polish can reduce or removes swirls, than any LSP wouldn't stand a chance.
 
If you're going to polish or clay it's a moot point, but otherwise I've read that a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alchohol and water (spray on/wipe off) does the trick for most all LSP's.
 
IMHO IPA (@70%) & "claying" won't remove most durable LSPs. Dawn won't remove them either.

The only way IMHO to remove them chemically is to use a solvent type product like Prep All or mineral spirits. Wheel acid will remove LSPs - lol.

But, this really doesn't matter. Any polishing will remove LSPs. Anyone who tells you you need to "strip wax" before for polish paint - either hasn't polished paint or is a bit lost in the process.

If polishing car remove clear coat - it can remove wax. Don't worry about that.
 
Waiting for warmer weather, never used it before but I have chemical guys citrus wash red we will see if it works.
 
Tpr1634 said:
Waiting for warmer weather, never used it before but I have chemical guys citrus wash red we will see if it works.
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I've tried it and it does not. After you have used it and there is no beading give it a quick wipe down with IPA and the beading will come back. The IPA removes the sufactants left behind by the wash soap which give it the appearance the LSP is gone. Read through the link in Post #4 above.
 
Swanicyouth said:
.."claying" won't remove most durable LSPs....
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I'd alter that just a little and say that "properly done, i.e., GENTLE claying won't remove LSPs". I've done a whole lot of claying (often spot-clay a little at every wash) and how you do it, and what clay you use, can really make a difference in this regard. A long time ago I posted my test for how to tell if your claying is stripping, dunno if anybody ever tried it....
 
In the 41 years in business,I have never used alcohol or had to remove old polishes or wax. Most cars people bring me are dead and car wash whipped to the point of breached clear coat. Detail products, no matter what is claimed by the industry offer protection for a frightfully short period of time. Many less than 2 to 3 months if that. I correct as best I can, given the reality of the situation, but never attempt to remove a product that may not be there anyway. I know many use clay here as well. Sounds like a good idea if anything.
 
I use presol or 3m wax and grease remover. But the OP did indicate they where going to 'polish' again. So if they really mean polish then no point. If they mean they are going to put another coat of LSP on it, then really no point there either.
 
I will say that *one time* I had some minor issues polishing away heavily layered KSG, it seemed to load up the pad and complicated things a lot more than I'd expected. But that's once out of how many decades of this stuff..

If I have any qualms about it I'll just wash the vehicle with ValuGard's "A".
 
I found a good method. I can't say for sure if all the old LSP is gone but the paint is spotless and clean and properly prepped for the new coat of wax or sealant. I start by using CGs Citrus Clear @2 ounces per gal. (this is considered the "stripping" solution for this shampoo). I then add to the wash bucket 1 ounce per gal. of P21S Total Auto Wash. Sometimes, especially if there are lots of bugs or there is road grime and tar on the lower panels, I put the Total Auto Wash in a sprayer at a 1:1 ratio with distilled water and spray the panels with the solution before washing.

After the shampoo, I dry the car. The last step (assuming I don't have to correct with an abrasive polish or clay) is to use a chemical cleaner like P21S Paintwork Cleanser. I have used KAIO for this too but like P21S better. I also understand Duragloss Squeaky Clean is a good product for this step but have not tried it yet.

Like I said, I don't know how much if any of the prior LSP is left after this process but I don't care because the paint is clean, decontaminated and well prepped for the new LSP. The end result is much better for me than using alcohol and dawn, especially now that I have been using Sonax Net Polymer Shield as my sealant and Sonax Brilliant Shine as my "topper". Everything seems very compatible and works well together and I have no reason to ever deviate from this process.
 
shortspark-- I'm sure the P21S is removing any old LSP and that Squeaky Clean would do the same as they are designed for this process. What are you thoughts on the Sonax Polymer Net Shield now that you've been using it???
 
pwaug said:
shortspark-- I'm sure the P21S is removing any old LSP and that Squeaky Clean would do the same as they are designed for this process. What are you thoughts on the Sonax Polymer Net Shield now that you've been using it???
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I love SPNS. It makes my "Diamond White" paint sparkle like never before. I am sure it is durable but I have a garage queen Mercedes that gets pampered and I do stuff to it all the time. Therefore, durability is secondary to looks. I have used Duragloss 105 and 111 along with the bonding agent (601). They were really good sealants but I like the looks of SPNS even better. The bonus is that it repels road dirt and dust better than anything I have ever used, even better than Collinite 845, which I always thought kept a car fairly clean as well as shinny and protected.

If there is a footnote to using SPNS it is the application. I have tried various microfiber's, from those short nap ones used for polish removal to those that are plush and even ultra plush, but none are able to keep from grabbing. Accordingly, I have to use a bit more elbow grease with SNPS but the results are worth it. SPNS is not slick, neither in application with a hand pad nor removal with a microfiber. Nor is it particularly slick feeling on the paint itself. Duragloss 111 with a topper of Aquawax was much slicker in feel. Nonetheless, it seems the Sonax was made with my Diamond White (and very hard) paint in mind. It is a German product after all. P21S is German too. Maybe that's why everything seems to work so well together. These German companies probably do all their testing on BMWs and Mercedes paints. Whatever the reason, the P21S stuff to condition the car properly followed by the Sonax is the holy grail, at least for my car. PS-use Sonax Full Effect on your wheels for a very pleasant surprise!
 
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