Why does my paint seem LSP ready after compounding?

simracer said:
Just for the record, I used Menz SIP on my arctic silver '98 328i with a yellow lake country pad on a PC and it looked pretty good to me. There were some deeper scratches that I wasn't able to work out, but I didn't have any micromarring issues.
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Did you use a halogen light to make sure? I would've finished down with 106ff on a white pad to bring back as much gloss as I could've.



- Andrew
 
Again, I'm doing my car and really I cant see anything wrong with the finish after a yellow pad + htech+ohc. Is it even remotely possible that the finish is LSP ready after thoroughly working that combo?



I'll have to try taping off a section and doing some OP on it to see, but I can never tell.
 
HTEC is almost a lsp ready heavy compound...I usually go from HTEC to poliseal on two step jobs...and I just play with the pad combo to get the best finish possible
 
Dave KG said:
The Power Gloss abrasives are also very brittle, so they can me made to break down very well with the rotary - it takes a fair amount of time, with regular spritzing of the pad with QD but it breaks down very effectively. Its a technique I developed for myself using Farecla G3 and getting it to break down LSP ready and transferred it to PG which seems to me to be a very similar style of polish - heavy abrasives and quite dry.



On hard paints, LSP ready from Power Gloss is possible - on softer more sensitive paints, its much harder to achieve.
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Now *that* is cool. PG is my heavy-hitter of choice, but it seems like whenever I use it, I'm pretty much committed to three-stepping the polishing process. I still have alot to learn. Lately I've been chickening out and using HTEC instead of PG, as I'm able to two-step with it, but it certainly lacks the power of PG.
 
toyotaguy said:
HTEC is almost a lsp ready heavy compound...I usually go from HTEC to poliseal on two step jobs...and I just play with the pad combo to get the best finish possible
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Oh okay, good to hear. I did polish a bit after with OP and orange pad and it seemed to clear things up a little. The reflection looked sharper after the OP.



Thanks.
 
If dave says it is possible then it is possible, simple as that, how to get there

only he knows exactly how, and I am not complimenting him, he does not need it.



first reason is he uses 3M SunGun which picks every things, your 100000 halogen won't pick.

second he is certified polishing master around here, on black paints...



I love my SunGun! :nana:
 
The way to use halogens to see defects is to not sit the lights at the paint directly, rather hold it on an angle

I use sodium vapour lights in the roof as my gurantee of paint perfection. they show everything
 
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