Why are these mf cloths not recommended for glass?

9

99323ic

New member
I've read that you simply spray the surface of the clay and the panel with QD spary and then rub back and forth until the surface is smooth. Then fold under the used side of clay and begin again on the next section.

Question: Wouldn't rubbing <strong class='bbc'>back and forth[/b] potentially rub contaminents into the surface you're trying to clean?

Wouldn't you want to rub in one direction only, 1 time only and then fold the clay over to trap any particles that it picked up?
 
I have a setup of Mother clay but I don't want to use it unless I know how... I have the same question as you. Seems like if you want to make sure you don't rub the grime into your paint you need 1000 little bars.



Maybe the QD raises it from the surface, I don't know...
 
Clay is not to be used as a precleaner, but to get rail dust, industrial fallout, etc,etc off the paint that is embedded. These particles are very small in size, and get suspended in the clay when using. Turn the clay often (after each panel), and when you are half done with the car, use a new piece. Use your judgement. I have used clay on many cars and have not had any ill effects other than some minor streaking of the clay bar on the paint, in which a car wash removed........
 
Thanks, DK! But what you pointed out, if there was a spec of rail dust embedded in the paint that the clay pulls out, would there be the risk that it would either scratch or mark the paint in some way? Or does liberal use of QD spray help prevent that?
 
Much like when you wash a dirty car, you use the water and shampoo to float dirt away and provide lubrication even though your applying pressure with a wash mitt etc.



But, just like a wash mitt you drop, there's a point when you have to stop and get a new piece of clay. This is subjective and takes time to know, but DK gave you a baseline; after half the car is clayed, use a new piece of clay if you're not sure. Also, I myself clay with car wash shampoo after wetting the car, like a wash,, because I think it lubricates better and more thoroughly, and, because I clay a lot, it's much cheaper.



Cut a new clay bar into pieces so you have 3 or 4 clean pieces to use instead of one big piece that will get contaminated as a whole. You'll get the hang of it quickly. Enjoy .
 
Just picked up a Mothers clay bar kit from Walmart in west Houston for $13 and change. The exact same kit at Pep Boys right down the road was $19. The guy stocking the shelves at Walmart said they just got the product in yesterday... perhaps reduced pricing to generate interest in a new product?? I'm not sure if the same product/pricing applies nationwide, but it may be worth a look if you're going to buy some clay.
 
which way would you cut the clay...mine looks like rectangle, long way...or short....this may be a stupied question....

someone had told me not do that, just throw it away when dirty...but if i can get some more usages out of it..great..

jeff
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by DrewD [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Just picked up a Mothers clay bar kit from Walmart in west Houston for $13 and change. The exact same kit at Pep Boys right down the road was $19. The guy stocking the shelves at Walmart said they just got the product in yesterday... perhaps reduced pricing to generate interest in a new product?? I'm not sure if the same product/pricing applies nationwide, but it may be worth a look if you're going to buy some clay. [/b]</blockquote>
13 bucks for the kit isn't a bad price at all.

Another option would be to get 2 claybars from your local Z distributor for 18 bucks (after tax) and not have to buy the QD. I prefer using diluted car shampoo as the lube because it's cheaper and as Darbh once said, it seems to deep clean your car because the suds come out very dirty. And even if there's any residue or streaking, you probably want to give the car a full wash anyway after claying.
 
PAC sells these scrubbing cloths with the notation:

These advanced, Microfiber Power Scrubber Cloths are not recommended for cleaning glass or clear plastic. They are best suited for tough cleaning tasks and buffing stubborn films.

I could understand plastic but wonder why glass is an issue since it is harder than paint.

Ideas?

classic-motoring_2126_11816794


http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo.net/miposccl.html
 
Al- no idea why not as they seem they would be excellent for glass. Maybe Angelo (ZoomZoom) or Todd will chime in..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top