White paint article

VaSuperShine said:
I've seen a few threads suggesting full sanding jobs where pc's were used for scuff removal, it would be out of taste to question it on these threads, but I would hate to see the finish in person.
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There's a HUGE difference between taking a sanded area and making it shiny again and taking a sanded area and removing 100% each and every sanding mark including tracers.



Everyone has different expectations and standards for what's acceptable and what's not acceptable and we tend to side on the 100% perfection side of the argument and for this a rotary buffer is the best tool for the job.



Heck I've worked on paints that even a rotary buffer wouldn't remove the sanding marks no matter what compound or pad was used and the painter had to repaint the car. :hairpull
 
Mike Phillips said:
Heck I've worked on paints that even a rotary buffer wouldn't remove the sanding marks no matter what compound or pad was used and the painter had to repaint the car. :hairpull
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I'm experiencing that right now on my 1983 300d (ss repaint), the only success I have currently had at removing most of it was 3m heavy/yellow lc pad @ damn near 3000 rpm's, not even that removed the tracers, pretty disappointing seen how it's in dire need of leveling.



Guess I'll have to live with it or repaint.:angry
 
Mike Phillips said:
There's a HUGE difference between taking a sanded area and making it shiny again and taking a sanded area and removing 100% each and every sanding mark including tracers.



Everyone has different expectations and standards for what's acceptable and what's not acceptable and we tend to side on the 100% perfection side of the argument and for this a rotary buffer is the best tool for the job.



Heck I've worked on paints that even a rotary buffer wouldn't remove the sanding marks no matter what compound or pad was used and the painter had to repaint the car. :hairpull
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I do not believe you will find any less dedication to quality on the part of members here.



Some sanding marks will not be removed if the grit is too abrasive, the paint too hard, or insufficient compounds/pads. True either of rotary or PC. Infinite variables.



No one debates the superior abilities of the rotary buffer.
 
Mike Phillips said:
Keyword being "some"



Enthusiasts can do what they want and people can recommend this all day long on forums, but if someone takes your advice, sands down their car and then tries to remove the sanding marks using your recommendations and fails... whose held accountable?



Whose going to help him get the sanding marks out? Either by typing more and more and more or going to his house?



We don't recommend enthusiasts try to sand their car and then remove the sanding marks using a PC because you never know the skill level of the person your posting to on a forum. Pros use rotary buffer so this isn't' an issue for them but if they want to show up to the body shop they work at and try to remove sanding marks using a PC as 'their' favorite method more power to them.



Heck I had at least 60 hours into the wet-sand, cut and polish work I did to the Joker truck using the Abralon system and my trusty, dusty rotary buffer, I can't even imagine trying to do the rotary buffer step using a PC



Jokersanded001.jpg








That is Mike Pennington.
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First off, I like how you have masked off the truck. It is very nice to see.



Secondly, if an enthusiast wishes to fully wetsand their entire vehicle then there is a problem to begin with. I have not written any how-to's for wetsanding as I do not recommend it for most people. The risks are too great.



Third, if an enthusiast does pick up a PC and tries to remove sanding marks they won't be damaging their paint. The PC is completely paint safe (within reason).
 
wow. how did we get from white paint to wet sanding?? anyway, i have owned many, many white cars since my first new car in 1973. have never bought any other color. period. white is a great color on most all cars, IMHO. especially a DD because of the dirt factor. currently i have a white C6, white avalanche and a white diamond CTS. all are finished with 845 and or NXT for the easy "pop" factor. tires must always be dressed and the chrome or aluminium polished but white is not boring at all. :tumblewee
 
First, thanks to all for the great feedback. I have GOT to get in the habit of subscribing to threads. I was unaware until today that there had been so many responses. Going through a clueless phase, I guess. Anyway, THANKS. I may post some pics after I get started with the wintertime polishing. For white, the stuff gives off a fairly deep reflection....in the right light...on the right day....or night....depending on the lunar cycle....
 
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