White Car Detail Suggestions?

Y

YuhDunBenShrunk

New member
I have a 2000 Subaru Outback Limited (Champagne Exterior Trim)

Now I know Im not going to get the great depth that comes with darker paint
But I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or preferred methods/product pairs for white vehicles

I washed-->clayed--> hand compounded/polished--> hand waxed my car three or four weeks ago
I used a Megs starter pack for everything, Gold Soap, Clay, Ultimate compound and Polish, and Gold Class Carnauba Wax Plus
I loved the outcome but I was not impressed with how long the protection lasted
Next week no more beading and the paint no longer had that slippery feel to it.
The car is parked out in the California elements so that is to be expected to a certain extent but I was surprised at how FAST it deteriorated

All that need to know minutiae to say this
I have ordered my first DA - Griots 6" with Megs MF cutting Pads and Lake Country CCS White and Black Pads
And I will be refining my earlier hand detail job with them
I will be using Blackfire Crystal Coat as my paint sealant of choice thanks to this wonderful forum

So I am wondering if there were any suggestions on products or methods of choice to bring my white paint to a brilliant shine from the brilliant minds in this forum

Any help or additional questions would be greatly appreciated!!
TIA


EDIT: i am using the GG6inch included backing plate and ordered all 6.5 inch pads. I am noticing a lot of others recommending a 5" backing plate with the fitting pads stating that 6" doesn't do the corrections they were looking for.

Am I wrong in using the 6" BP with 6.5" pads?
 
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You will need compounding/polishing products. While it's true that white is very difficult to get improvements to show, it IS possible. YOU would be surprised at just how much of a difference they make. I would suggest one of the Meguiar's twins. Either the professional line (M105/M205) or the consumer version (Ultimate Compound/Ultimate Polish). Both sets of twins are user-friendly and work as advertised. I believe the pro-line stuff is just slightly more aggressive, but essentially they are the same products.
 
There should be no difference between the way you detail cars, white or black. The clear coat is the same and that's what you're polishing. You need really good lighting to see defects in lighter colors but when a white car is polished to black car standards it's obvious.

Robert
 
Is it clear coat or single stage paint? Many of the older white cars are single stage and may require pads & chemicals that are a bit more stout than if used on clear coat.
 
You are on the right track. The compound and polish should work for you since you already have them. I hear Subaru's have soft paint so you may be able to get away with just using the ultimate polish on the cutting pad. I would HIGHLY suggest Iron-X for every car but especially white. Where in California are you? If you are in a hotter area wax doesn't tend to stick around long.
 
I would be careful using ultimate polish before moving on to coating. Ultimate polish is more of a glaze isn't it? So it will leave something on the surface that will not allow a coating to bond properly. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I tried megs gold class once and wasn't impressed. A week sounds about right for a vehicle outside 24/7
 
Well you just won the BLACKFIRE Crystal Coat kit, so I say coat it! Since this is a lighter colored car, just be sure to have good lighting so you can be sure you knock down any streaks or high spots before it fully hardens.
 
ShaneB said:
I would be careful using ultimate polish before moving on to coating. Ultimate polish is more of a glaze isn't it? So it will leave something on the surface that will not allow a coating to bond properly. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I tried megs gold class once and wasn't impressed. A week sounds about right for a vehicle outside 24/7
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The Ultimate Polish does have some light abrasives in it along with a lot of "polishing oils". You definitely would want to clean the paint with an IPA wipe down or a suface prep cleaner to remove these oils before applying a coating.
 
Wow guys
I posted this past midnight
and received 9 useful and intelligent responses before I woke up
This is why I am loving AF so much
thank guys for all your responses

RTexasF
Is it clear coat or single stage paint?
Click to expand...

I believe it is clear coat, when I did everything by hand I don't remember the paint coming off onto my MF
I will keep an eye on my pad though since it is so much more effective
Also I did buy M105/205 a few days ago and I will probably be using that on this attempt
just because I've heard so many good things

mnehls86
Where in California are you? If you are in a hotter area wax doesn't tend to stick around long.
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I live in the Sacramento area. We do get pretty hot in the summer (low 100s) but I have noticed that it has been a lot hotter recently than it should be at this time of year, so your response makes sense as to why it may not have lasted very long. Also Iron-x is on my list of things to buy. :)

Thank you again for all your responses
They're making me confident that I have a handle on the application method
and that my first try with the GG 6" won't be a total disaster lol
 
Welcome ! I feel your pain as I have a White Chevy Cruze and while it shines even when dirty... its still not 90-100% perfect though. I tried gold class and it has a better shine than collonite 845 but it definitely doesn't last very long.

I was given a sample of Finish Kare 1000 wax that a member on the forums gave me and once I move into my new garage in 1 month I will finally be able to test it out in harsh sun conditions. I will let you know how it turns out. I also have had great results with black Fire wet diamond sealant on my white car too ! Good Luck !
 
silver2kws6- I simply *LOVED* the FK1000P on the white Crown Vic I used to have. Yeah yeah, I know, I seem to love it on most everything, but it really made that car look great despite its rather FUBAR paint. The prep does matter with white, so fix any marring and use a good final polish, but if it made *that* car look great it oughta be good on your Cruze.
 
I would recommend polishing with the white pad on the GG6 before stepping up to the MF pads. Best way I have been able to see defects on a white car is in a dark garage with an LED flashlight. Move the light around at different angles.
 
I remember when I was detailing a white Toyota Camry , Mike Phillips came into the Show Car Garage and gave me great advice when detailing white vehicles. He told me contrast is king on white cars. In other words, make the white (paint) as white as possible by thoroughly decontaminating with Iron X and clay followed with polishing (as needed). But also make the black trim and black tires look as dark as possible.
 
Vega@Autopia said:
I remember when I was detailing a white Toyota Camry , Mike Phillips came into the Show Car Garage and gave me great advice when detailing white vehicles. He told me contrast is king on white cars. In other words, make the white (paint) as white as possible by thoroughly decontaminating with Iron X and clay followed with polishing (as needed). But also make the black trim and black tires look as dark as possible.
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Well Said !This is why black tint looks so good on a white car ! I hit my tires with gel and always wash my inner fenders when washing the car to ensure the blacks are black. Its always a great feeling when you park next to another white car and yours is sooo much brighter.
 
wdmaccord said:
Best way I have been able to see defects on a white car is in a dark garage with an LED flashlight. Move the light around at different angles.
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Exactly! Point-source illumination in an otherwise dark room is the way to go, on white or any other color IMO.

White *is* great for not showing marring, but all those little flaws still refract light instead of reflecting it.
 
silver2kws6 said:
I was given a sample of Finish Kare 1000 wax
Click to expand...

Accumulator said:
silver2kws6- I simply *LOVED* the FK1000P on the white Crown Vic I used to have.
Click to expand...

Well I will definitely have to check out this Finish Kare, Im making a list of all the products I'm interested in and I will order some in my next order :)

wdmaccord said:
I would recommend polishing with the white pad on the GG6 before stepping up to the MF pads. Best way I have been able to see defects on a white car is in a dark garage with an LED flashlight. Move the light around at different angles.
Click to expand...

I grabbed MF pads on Larry Kosilla's recommendation, he says he only uses the Megs MF and foam. Is your recommendation based on the least aggressive method practice or is there something you dislike about MF that Foam achieves?

Vega@Autopia said:
I remember when I was detailing a white Toyota Camry , Mike Phillips came into the Show Car Garage and gave me great advice when detailing white vehicles. He told me contrast is king on white cars. In other words, make the white (paint) as white as possible by thoroughly decontaminating with Iron X and clay followed with polishing (as needed). But also make the black trim and black tires look as dark as possible.
Click to expand...

Did light shine down from heaven and angels sing when he entered the room? Everytime I look something up on an Autogeek thread he seems to be right there answering everyones questions that man seems to be a fountain of knowledge I always appreciate his advice. Although I'm sure he hates the whole lights and angels thing, I imagine its hard to sneak up on people. His advice here is awesome, Id never thought of that contrast but that makes complete sense!
 
silver2kws6 said:
Well Said !This is why black tint looks so good on a white car ! I hit my tires with gel and always wash my inner fenders when washing the car to ensure the blacks are black. Its always a great feeling when you park next to another white car and yours is sooo much brighter.
Click to expand...

^This is what I am shooting for B) I don't need a show car shine but after all the work I put into my car I WOULD like my car to stand out a little. LOL

Accumulator said:
Exactly! Point-source illumination in an otherwise dark room is the way to go, on white or any other color IMO.

White *is* great for not showing marring, but all those little flaws still refract light instead of reflecting it.
Click to expand...

Thank you both, this is a great idea, I've just been using the overhead lights and moving my eyes around but this is a better cheap workaround. Thanks guys!!
 
I am using the GG 6 inch included backing plate and ordered all 6.5 inch pads. I am noticing a lot of others recommending a 5" backing plate with the fitting pads stating that 6" doesn't do the corrections they were looking for.

Am I wrong in using the 6" BP with 6.5" pads?
 
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