Which polish to remove swirls by hand?

A

AUMaxima

New member
I detailed my maxima and my mom's volvo last week and pretty used the same steps for both.



-Wash

-Clay

-SRP

-EGP X2



After all that, there will still swirls :eek: Im assuming I need a more abbrasive polish that can be used by hand...any suggestions? thanks



-Ben
 
I was unsuccessful removing swirls by hand with DACP, so I bought a PC. Makes it so much easier. However, most people recommend the Einzett (1Z) line for ease of use with swirl remover via hand application.
 
Autoglym's SRP is *so* mild that I consider it basically nonabrasive (and I use it on *very* soft old-school lacquer).



For by-hand work I'd use the same stuff I recommend for work by PC: either 1Z or 3M's PI-III RC (05933) and MG (05937).



I used the latter combo, by hand, on the trunk lid of the S8 yesterday to remove some marring (scratch from having 100% cotton between my hand and the lid when I closed it :eek: Thought I was being careful, should've known better and used MF...). If it'll work fine on the hard Audi clear, it'll work fine for you ;)



FWIW, and this is just IMO, the above-mentioned products work a *lot* better/easier, especially by hand, than Meg's stuff. I'm OK with #80, but I'm so happy with the 1Z/PI-III stuff than I won't be buying any more #80 after I finish this bottle. If stuff like DACP/SFP works for you, fine- no need to flame me. But I sure wouldn't recommend it to somebody who hasn't already gotten accustomed to it. I can't recall anybody being unhappy with, or having problems with, the 1Z/PI-III stuff.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I would try 1Z, but I am in school and on a budget. Are there any of Meguiar's Professional Series products yall would reconmend? I was think of #9 maybe...:nixweiss



-Ben
 
AUMaxima-Meg's #9 is *awfully* mild stuff IMO...gee, I really don't mean to sound all Meguiar's-bashing :o



If you can find any, get the #80 Speed Glaze instead. Much better for marring removal and it works OK by hand. Work it until it turns clear or pink.



See if there are any autobody/paint supply places near you. Stuff by 3M and Pro is usually available there. Meg's Pro series too :D
 
I tried #9 to remove swirling on my trunk. It took my over an hour to REDUCE the swirls. Since #9 has fillers, I may not have really accomplished anything at all. That's when I decided to buy a PC.

I also like 3m PI III MG though. It works very well by PC, and also works well by hand.
 
When using the 1z polishes (PP and MP) by hand, what is the proper way to use them? Right now I don't have the money for a PC, but would like to get one eventually. I was planning on using those Pinnacle terry applicators... how much pressure should I apply, and how long do I work it (does it dry up or turn clear)? Also, since I plan on getting a PC at some point, are 1Z polishes effecitve both by hand and PC, or would a different brand of polish be better for use with the PC later on? I know there are lots of polishes mentioned around here for removing swirls, but I'd like one that is good by hand and by PC. Thanks.
 
We used Mequiar's Scratch-X by hand on a friend's swirled-up black Mercedes. It didn't get all the swirls out like using a machine but it came darned close.



You had to look pretty hard in the direct sun to see any leftover swirls.



We followed up with NXT Tech wax and you could no longer see the remaining swirls.



Only problem is there were several of us rubbing away and it still took 30 minutes to cover the car. So be prepared to get tired trying this all by hand.
 
RedStang said:
When using the 1z polishes (PP and MP) by hand, what is the proper way to use them? ... are 1Z polishes effecitve both by hand and PC, or would a different brand of polish be better for use with the PC later on? I know there are lots of polishes mentioned around here for removing swirls, but I'd like one that is good by hand and by PC. Thanks.
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1Z stuff works well by PC/hand/rotary. You work them until they're almost, but not quite dry. More pressure for more severe defects. You'll quickly get the hang of it once you do it for a while. The PI-III stuff is equally good with all application methods.



Lowejackson- Yeah, it would be interesting to hear how the Autoglym polishes work. Their other stuff is pretty good.
 
I'd personally use #80 or 3m Finesse it II. I don't know how aggressive the polishes you're using currently are, but I'm sure #80 and FI II are more aggressive and will do the job. I'd kind of be scared to use perfect it III, though. It's pretty aggressive -- more than DACP, and capable of taking out 1000-1200 grit sanding marks.



I recently did my entire car with #80, by hand, and was mostly pleased with the results. Keep in mind, no matter what you use, polishing by hand is hard work! The #80 took the few minor scratches in my paint with ease. However, it left fine marring on the hood. It didn't do this anywhere else on the car, which had me puzzled. No matter how long I worked it, I'd get the same result. A couple coats of NXT covered this, however. Overall, it left the paint looking deeper and richer than it was before. It's good by hand, and would be excellent by PC.
 
Accumulator said:
1Z stuff works well by PC/hand/rotary. You work them until they're almost, but not quite dry. More pressure for more severe defects. You'll quickly get the hang of it once you do it for a while. The PI-III stuff is equally good with all application methods.
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Sounds good. I was reading that these polishes do contain waxes, and may present a problem with bonding issues for LSPs. Would using something after the 1Z stuff (like VM or another prewax polish) take care of this problem and create a better surface for a sealant like WG or EX-P to bond to?
 
VictoryRed said:
Would SSR2.5 work?
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Not by hand unless you have old school elbow grease. Menzerna FPII by hand then AIO or p21s paint cleaner, would be my choice. Menzerna has no protection or oils, that's why I prefer it. Never had any bonding issues.
 
Burlyq said:
Not by hand unless you have old school elbow grease. Menzerna FPII by hand then AIO or p21s paint cleaner, would be my choice. Menzerna has no protection or oils, that's why I prefer it. Never had any bonding issues.
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Menzerna FP II is very mild and will not remove swirls when used by hand. It is great with the PC for clearing up compounding haze and will remove very minor marring. A more aggressive product will be needed to remove swirls by hand.



I like 3M Perfect It II and III Rubbing Compounds and Perfect It III Machine Glaze.
 
Olorin- I dunno, the PI-III RC leaves a nearly ready-to-wax finish and isn't as aggressive as you'd think (I've used it a lot on everything from soft old-school lacquer to modern b/c). The MG is *very* mild, just enough cut to be better than #9. The RC won't take out 1200 scratches in my experience (well, it will with numerous passes with a rotary/cutting pad/>1500rpm) , it works OK on 2K scratches and better on 2.5-3K ones, so maybe you're thinking of a different product in the PI-III line. Don't mean to sound :argue or anything, but my experiences with FI-II and #80 are one of the reasons why I stick with PI-III and 1Z stuff. Of course, experiences *do* vary :cool:



RedStang- If you want to eliminate any problems from the 1Z polishes' wax, a) get the Pro verson of MP, far less wax; most sealants (BF, UPP, etc.) bond fine on it, and b) otherwise, use a LSP-compatible product afterwards, something like AIO or the BF/UPP polish. I don't use VM for this as it can lead to the same issues.



I just did PI-III RC/PI-III MG/1Z Pro MP by hand on the S8's trunklid (fairly small area) and topped with UPP. Worked great on a couple of isolated scratches (caused by just light contact with soft 100% cotton, and that's on hard Audi clear!).
 
You can waste so much money trying different products to remove swirls by hand... I'd save that cash and wait 'til I had enough $$ to buy a PC. Hey, Christmas is coming... if you behave yourself, maybe Santa might bring you one! :D
 
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