Which Paint Depth Gauge?

subygirl said:
There is a mighty expensive meter out there that can measure each layer separately. For the rest of us, it comes down to knowledge of each auto company's paint process, and knowledge of the detailing history of the car. Most never before compounded cars will have between 1.5 and 2mils of clear.

Then, to be quite honest, we're all more or less "guessing" at the various thicknesses, and also guessing at how much clear / base we're going to be removing ? Well, maybe I should say "educated guess", but you get the point....
 
WAS said:
Then, to be quite honest, we're all more or less "guessing" at the various thicknesses, and also guessing at how much clear / base we're going to be removing ? Well, maybe I should say "educated guess", but you get the point....

True to some degree. Let's say you measure the hood and it has 80 microns and full of swrils, would you compound that hood or just pass? Without a PTG you wouldn't have known this and possibly go through the clear. If you measure the door jam which is very thin in cc you will get a pretty good idea on how much base you have.
 
Legacy99 said:
True to some degree. Let's say you measure the hood and it has 80 microns and full of swrils, would you compound that hood or just pass? Without a PTG you wouldn't have known this and possibly go through the clear. If you measure the door jam which is very thin in cc you will get a pretty good idea on how much base you have.

OK, so the hood has 80 microns.... so how much is clear, how much is base and how much is primer ? Even if say standard (and I use these numbers just for example) clear was 50 microns and base was 100 microns, how would you know based on a total of 80 microns, what is what ? It could be 70 microns base and 10 clear, or maybe 40 microns base and 40 microns clear....



Again, I might be completely off-base, never having used a paint meter before, but I'm confused on how you're supposed to breakdown a "total" without any other information.
 
A paint gauge will also tell you just how much correction you are doing. It is especially handy with deeper scratches. If you do a full correction with say 105/205 or whatnot, and the gauge tells you that you only took away 0.1 mil - then you know you are good to do more correction on the car in the future. Conversely, if there is a nasty scratch you are trying to level, you can use the meter throughout the process to make sure you are not taking off more than a few tenths of a mil when correcting. You only have 0.5mil you can take off before you can possibly compromise the clear coat supposedly.
 
WAS said:
OK, so the hood has 80 microns.... so how much is clear, how much is base and how much is primer ? Even if say standard (and I use these numbers just for example) clear was 50 microns and base was 100 microns, how would you know based on a total of 80 microns, what is what ? It could be 70 microns base and 10 clear, or maybe 40 microns base and 40 microns clear....



Again, I might be completely off-base, never having used a paint meter before, but I'm confused on how you're supposed to breakdown a "total" without any other information.



There is no way to be absolutely sure unless you spend thousands getting a PTG that will break the coating down. My point is that if you only show 80 mic it would not be safe to use an aggressive pad and compound. If you did not have a PTG you might have used an aggreggive polish and be in trouble. On the other hand if you had say 140 mic. you should be safe to compound and you can stop and check to be sure before going any further. This is especially helpful when wet sanding. If you are looking for a fool proof gauge then you need to invest thousands of dollars.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I'll be in the market soon for a paint gauge, good to know this stuff.
 
I've been looking at what types of PTG's are out there and comparing them. There is a lot of jargon on defelsko's website for the higher end meters. Can anyone tell me what warrants the high cost for the Positector 6000?
 
subygirl said:
I've been looking at what types of PTG's are out there and comparing them. There is a lot of jargon on defelsko's website for the higher end meters. Can anyone tell me what warrants the high cost for the Positector 6000?



As many forumers have mentioned, the $225 highline paint meter is the best bang-for-the-buck in the budget under-$500 category.



If you are thinking of shelling out more cash for a higher-end equipment, the Elcometer products are worth considering.



Car Paint Meter | Elcometer USA



Elcomotor Bodyshop Equipment | Elcometer USA
 
carcat1 said:
As many forumers have mentioned, the $225 highline paint meter is the best bang-for-the-buck in the budget under-$500 category.



If you are thinking of shelling out more cash for a higher-end equipment, the Elcometer products are worth considering.



Car Paint Meter | Elcometer USA



Elcomotor Bodyshop Equipment | Elcometer USA



I know the highline meter is the "best bang for the buck" and I plan on getting their newest version when I have the money. I was just wondering what warrants a $1,000 + price tag for the positec 6000? I know the 200 series reads each paint layer separately, but I can't identify such a 'stand apart' feature on the 6000.
 
subygirl said:
Apparently my post never went through the other day. I did a bit more research, and the highline meters do have an accuracy of +/- 3% which is 0.1mils. To clear up my previous point: If a meter has a resolution/accuracy of 5% or more, then they can have up to a 0.5 mil or about 12 micron discrepancy between the true paint thickness and what it is actually reading. This means that you can go through nearly 0.4 mils of clear and it still show the same reading - which is not very helpful imho. Many of the cheaper meters out there fall into this category, which is why I asked the question about the Highline meter's accuracy.



Negative. There are a couple of problem with your thoughts, so let me help in what ways I can.



To begin, in ALL cases, you're attempting to get an generalized thought of the paint you'll be working on. To think you'll be able to a measurement of the exact same section of paint is fictional. Even if you use the "laser method," you're not taking into account the reading width of the tool itself. Does a PTG measure a millimeter^2 ? A quarter of a millimeter^2? If you rotate the PTG in place (say 1/4 turn clockwise), how much does this affect the accuracy of your readings?

For a PTG to be +/- 3% is very accurate for our uses as the human margin of error AKA Operator margin of error is off by AT LEAST this much. This is why a PTG is used as a tool to learn more about the paint you'll be working on - to give an idea as to what we may expect from the thickness of various panels, to check for consistency of the paint, etc.



Ultrasonic Coating Thickness Gauges do exist, and can read on a larger variety of surfaces as you know. Carbon fiber, fiberglass, plastic, etc can all be measured... but not accurately. If you talk to Elcometer or any other company of the sort, you'll notice these devices are considered "Coating" thickness gauges as they are not meant nor designed for automotive use. Their margin of error is MUCH MUCH higher than the +/- 3% (the same amount that you seemed turned off by) when used for cars. They're primarily meant for things like wood - not the urethane coatings covering the rounded panels of automobiles. Of course this isn't going to stop vendors from selling these products to those willing to purchase them.

From what I've learned, the rounded nature of body panels are one of the biggest factors for the lack of accuracy by ultrasonic coating thickness measurement tools, but the other is the type of material they're be reading on as well. A standard car panel from the factory will AT LEAST have an E-coat, Primer surfacer and or primer sealant, THEN the base coat followed by the clear-coat. While clear-coats tend to be thicker in nature and applied much thicker as well, the difference between things like the base-coat and primer-sealer is very small. Small enough that even the Defelsko 200 Advanced (Ultrasonic thickness gauge that can read individual coatings) won't be able to differentiate between all the different coatings.

Other ultrasonic-based gauges exist, to include the Defelsko 200 Standard and several models from Elcometer (the UK-based company that owns Highline), but all of those are "total thickness" readers, just as the Highline PTG is on metal.



There continues to be a big debate on how useful a total thickness reading gauge is by detailers, and while individual layer readers are EXTREMELY useful in theory, in practice it's not quite the same.



Lastly, 3% is extremely good. Military-only GPS units are rated +/- 3-5 meters accurate while most civilian units are around +/- 10 meters. If you've ever used a +/- 10m accuracy GPS unit, you likely know how amazingly accurate they are despite them being 100%+ less accurate than the military versions.



Oh, and I'd highly recommend contacting Elcometer and/or Defelsko directly and ask their representatives yourselves if you have questions or question the information I've posted here. I've talked to representatives from both companies on multiple occasions and have found it to be a great help myself.

-Marc
 
Marc - Excellent information, thanks for taking the time to write that up. Puts things into a bit better perspective.
 
MuttGrunt said:
Oh, and I'd highly recommend contacting Elcometer and/or Defelsko directly and ask their representatives yourselves if you have questions or question the information I've posted here. I've talked to representatives from both companies on multiple occasions and have found it to be a great help myself.

-Marc



I'm sorry if I came off as argumentative toward you. I was merely reiterating what I have read by searching other paint gauge threads here on autopia, and their thought process (at the time) seemed to have been the accepted thought process.



Now my post:

subygirl said:
I know the highline meter is the "best bang for the buck" and I plan on getting their newest version when I have the money. I was just wondering what warrants a $1,000 + price tag for the positec 6000? I know the 200 series reads each paint layer separately, but I can't identify such a 'stand apart' feature on the 6000.



This was not directed to you specifically in any way. I am asking the question because I have the chance to purchase a used one, and I am curious if there are any features to this gauge that makes it stand above others in some way-shape-or form. Any thoughts are much appreciated. And no, telling me to 'go by a highline meter' is not going to answer my question :)
 
I think paint meters are a waste of time. If you need a paint meter to tell you how to look at paint, then I personally feel you shouldn't be compounding. Now keep in mind. This is just my opionion and I''m not trying to belittle anyone who uses them. We all have different tools to get there. If you feel safer using one then great. I'm just saying I would not depend on one. I was always taught to read paint in high and low spots. I wonder what you people would have done ten years ago when there was no paint meters and foam pads?
 
subygirl said:
I'm sorry if I came off as argumentative toward you. I was merely reiterating what I have read by searching other paint gauge threads here on autopia, and their thought process (at the time) seemed to have been the accepted thought process.

:)



Oh no - no worries. I didn't take it that way at all - rather the opposite. So I'm sorry if I came across as offended or rather aggressive in my response. You bring up great points that anyone truly interested in these tools should bring up IMO. I know b/c I've been there myself. I didn't do the research I have for no reason ;)



Just as with other aspects of detailing, there is some misleading or hard to analyse information out there, and I feel compelled to share my opinion / findings with those that might make use of it.

FWIW, there next big research I'll be doing on "tools" will be with gloss-meters, and the information I gather will be documented with pics and a full write-up. We're currently setting some things up for that now.



While autopia is a great medium to discuss and gain information (I've learned a lot here for sure!), sometimes talking directly to the manufacturers can be extremely beneficial. In the case of Highline/Elcometer in the USA, you have the ability to call them and talk to a very knowledgeable representative like I did when speaking with, dealing with, and making a purchase from Brad at their Rochester Michigan location. While some detailing companies might sell a lot of various items, places like Elcometer specialize in very few products that are made to a high standard. Any chance you have to talk to such a manufacturer that makes something you might buy that is expensive - take it :)





Barry,

you surely hail from a different line of thinking than myself on this. By all means I see, understand, and respect your feelings and view point. You've done a lot more work surrounding aftermarket refinishing than most though.

Because I have less experience in this area, and in an attempt to show current and potential clients preventative safety measures we take with their pride & joy, we love our PTG for what it is. We're still looking into the usefulness of an ultrasonic gauge for our uses, and won't make a purchase unless we know it'll be worth it.

With that said, I'm sure we can both agree that there are many things in the detailing community that are way over hyped / overrated. Luxury waxes, PTGs, etc are all in this category. Its not that they serve no purpose, or that they're not useful; rather it's that many times people don't fully understand the pros/cons of these items and take them into account.



That being said... AutoLavish will continue to use the following items ;)



DSC08386.jpg




2010-02-11130048.jpg
 
Barry Theal said:
I was always taught to read paint in high and low spots. I wonder what you people would have done ten years ago when there was no paint meters and foam pads?

OK, I'll bite. How do you "read paint in high and low spots" ? You can visually see with your naked eye where paint is getting thin on the body of a car ?
 
Barry Theal said:
I think paint meters are a waste of time. If you need a paint meter to tell you how to look at paint, then I personally feel you shouldn't be compounding. Now keep in mind. This is just my opionion and I''m not trying to belittle anyone who uses them...



Hey Barry :wavey



Heh heh, about time you and I disagreed about something :chuckle: And no, no offense taken. I'm just gonna kick this idea around with you a little bit.

couldn't see the diff). The thin spots were *exactly* identical to the normal-thickness areas nearby; same texture, "depth", brightness of metallic, everything. So it was a good thing I took those readings and everything turned

There are just enough times when my ETG saved me from an "oops!" that I'll disagree with you. In those cases I simply could *NOT* see that the paint was thin, and believe me, I worked at it (lights, magnification, you name it I simply out fine.



Crutch? Maybe, but hey, if your leg's broken it'll get you around and that beats sitting there ;)



You aren't *really* saying that I shouldn't be compounding are you? I mean, I've only overthinned paint on a few spots in my life and even then I sure wasn't even close to a strike-through (two exceptions described below :o ). A few spots overthinned a little since the '70s doesn't seem so incompetent that I really oughta give up compounding instead of taking some readings now and then.



Hey, the *worst* overthinning I've ever done was on two uncleared areas of the MPV. The black single-stage door window surrounds got two light passes with 3M PI-III MG 05937 via PC, and that took one area almost to primer without removing the very light marring I was correcting! The uncleared ares on the underside of the hood cut through on a high spot with *one* light pass with the same combo; the paint on there was simply "fogged" on and I didn't expect that. Heh heh, in those cases I wasn't compounding but I was still insufficiently competent, huh? Shoulda taken readings, I say!
 
I use a Highline II like MuttGrunts. I use it to get some general readings at the beginning of a detail and on about 10% of the correction work I do, I keep using it throughout to make sure my techniques are not overly aggressive. Better safe than sorry.



Personally I don't understand the backlash against these types of tools. If people want to use them to be more precise then they should use them. Understandibly these types of instruments weren't available a decade ago or more, but they are now. I can read a sun dial, but I prefer a digital watch or cell phone clock. Why? Because its precise and (in the cell phone example) multifunction. Old mathematician's probably used a slide rule over calculators too, because they didn't see the point. I don't see many slide rules being used in Math today- and simple calculators have are being replaced with scientific and graphing ones. Heck...my cell phone has simple and scientific. Come to think of it, we should create a Paint Depth Gauge App for the iPhone! :2thumbs:
 
I love my highline its made by elconometer.



If I want to know how much clear is on the car, you need to find a spot that is painted but does not have clear on it, like the engine bay, that way you have a base reading of comparison. I'm currently working on a Cessna that was repainted, and its thin in spots and would have not known with out a PTG. The first time you burn thru a CC you'll wish you knew before hand. I did this and the total paint was 1mil, I would guess the cc was less than .3mil at the time.



Its just a tool, you still have to have common sense. A tool is only as smart as its user.



Cheers,

GREG
 
Isn't anyone using it also as a marketing tool? When a customer sees you measuring the paint, it must send a message vs. anything they have ever seen before. Image!



Good posts above with great information!



Rob
 
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