Which mild polish to eliminate spider webs on ss black paint (87 GM Buick Grand Nat)?

I

imported_detail1

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Paint is original single stage & very shiny. However, I have spider webs from using cotton towels years ago from drying the car.



Lots of these Grand Nationals had defective paint from the factory where the paint would crack. Fortunately, I do not have this problem.



What is a mild polish that will remove spider webbing?



I have lots of products- Menzerna Final Polish; FPII; IP; Power Gloss;

Klasse AIO & Sealant; 1Z Einszett Paint Polish Lack-Politur; Megs 105; 205; #7; #83.



I will be using a FLEX DA. I want to go mild because I used the FLEX on my 1983 VW with original single stage paint & some paint came off of the edges.



Without doing trial & error, can someone suggest a plan of action - even recommend another product.



As far as LSP, I will be using Zymol Vintage. I have read that lost of people use Megs #7 on ss paint but the paint doesn't need it bc its very shiny- just want to get rid of spiders.



Thanks
 
If you don't want to go through the paint, you tape up the edges and use a paint gauge. Using a mild polish is for micromarring or finishing off a heavier compound. If you are really worried about your paint depth, especially is the car has original paint, I'd just go for something like SRP or something that fills like NXT. Everyone thinks their swirls are mild until they try to get rid of them. I guess what I'm saying is there is no mild approach and there is no fool proof plan of action, you need to experiment.
 
Are Grand Nationals single stage? I thought they had some kind of crappy early GM b/c :think:



Either way, I'd be all about filling on an original-paint car with paint that's known to be fragile. And while it's not one of my faves, I wouldn't rule out stuff like M07 just because the paint is already shiny.
 
Yes, Grand Nationals were single stage. Lots of them were repainted brand new because there was some type of defective in the paint that cause it to crack.



I will reconsider Megs 7. But 1st I will take some paint readings and then post back here. It would be nice to get rid of the spiders but I will have to make sure that there's enough paint first.
 
detail1 said:
Yes, Grand Nationals were single stage. Lots of them were repainted brand new because there was some type of defective in the paint that cause it to crack. ..
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Ah, thanks for schooling me! I learn something every day around here...



I will reconsider Megs 7. But 1st I will take some paint readings and then post back here. It would be nice to get rid of the spiders but I will have to make sure that there's enough paint first.
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Though I have decades of experience with it, M07 isn't all that user-friendly for me (and I started out using it on black GM single stage too). Note that the other Meguiar's "Pure Polishes" often do almost as well results-wise while being a lot less frustrating to use. My fave it M05 New Car Glaze, but you can use M03 Machine Glaze by hand too, and Deep Crystal Step#2 Polish is like a wimpy version of the same stuff.



Then there's One Grand Omega Glaze and Bilt Hamber AutoBalm, both of which oughta work great for this.
 
Ok- mostly good news. I took out my Highliner II meter, calibrated it and went to work. I tested it out on a few other cars first to verify its accuracy. It was accurate as i got higher readings from the hood of my dad's Caddy which was resprayed. I wish I would have used this meter before polishing my 1983 VW Rabbit GTi with my FLEX D/A. The VW has micron readings as low as 56 in some areas up to 224.



As far as my Grand National, I carefully took alot of readings in microns.

Hood: 83, 95, 106, 108, 98, 82, 90, 91, 107, 82, 109,107, 115, 106, 93, 91, 91, 103, 102, 106, 87, 98, 117, 103, 127, 92, 105,110. Average =96



Trunk: 112, 135, 127, 112,108, 138, 122, 116, 125,121,128 Average=122



Roof: (T-Top Car) 126, 133,121, 130, 125, 114,109, 110, 112,108, 127

Average=119



Fenders: 114, 116, 133, 260, 90, 97, 108, 91, 116, 119, 100, 106, 95, 90 Average=116



1/4 Panels: 122, 130, 132, 126, 133,153, 124, 146, 128, 91, 85, 90, 91, 83, 221, 132, 172 Average=119



Upper Doors: 103, 125, 125,138, 129, 131,121, 141, 122,112 Average=124



Lower Doors:120, 123, 118, 105, 102, 103, 125, 110, 114,92, 192, 180, 291, 162, 169, 188 Average=143



I know I took alot of readings but i want to know the right directions to take. "Measure twice & cut once!"

I was reading up on micron numbers and I believe that over 100 is safe.

I think the only problem area is really the hood.



The next thing that i will do is to retake measurements & record for each specific area, such as driver's side hood or passenger's side upper door and then average. This way I can definitely know the micron of each separate section & then decide whether to glaze or polish. It's alot of work but it's worth saving my paint. I have been doing alot of reading & researching. I am sure that this will lead to my choice of the best products & strategies to make this original paint look its best without further jeopardizing the thickness of the paint.



Please advise. Thanks
 
There really is no such thing as avoiding trial and error when it comes to polishing cars. So many variables its impossible over the internet to say "use polish A" to take care of your problem.



What has surprised me is how well Optimum Hyper Polish works on single stage paints, very good oxidation remover but if the paint is particularly soft, it will probably leave some hazing. But not always. Where I personally would start is 3M Ultrafina using a foam polishing pad and a DA. Then probably move up to OHP if I need more power, then back down to Ultrafina. No guarantees though...
 
To: Accumulator

This is NOT my car but it shows the original defective GM paint. It looks good from far but is far from good! It was known as checking or cracking due to a problem with the primer i believe.



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Scottwax said:
Nothing short of a repaint will fix lacquer checking.
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Yes sir. Many Grand Nationals were repainted brand new - some under GM warranty- because of the poor quality lacquer paint. I have personally seen a few of these defective paint jobs in person and it was amazing that from a few feet away, the car looked shiny but as u slowly got closer to it, u could notice the checking/ cracking.



Luckily, my Grand National does not have this problem. Mine is a 1987 and most of the defects were in 1986 cars.
 
Alfisti said:
From your list I'd try Menzerna IP or 1Z PP.



Or get UNO4 and be done with it.
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Where can i buy HD UNO4 & why do u recommend it?



I have been looking for it online but seems like very few places carry HD products.
 
Auto Polish Product for Car Paint, Plastic & Glass - HD Uno | 3DProducts



"HD UNO is a revolutionary 3-in-1 polish that cuts, polishes and finishes all new and old finishes with less work and less mess.



HD® UNOâ„¢ is a dust free, cutting compound for all types of paint correction and paint defect removal. Using today's new NANO Technology and super micro abrasives you can achieve the ultimate finish with less work and less mess. HD® UNOâ„¢ is designed to remove P1200 and finer scratches, oxidation and swirl marks (spider webs). Ideal for all high volume detailing environments, body shops, and paint repair.



Its exceptional open time allows longer buffing period, and less product use. Product works best when applied in a shaded area but is sun friendly when used correctly. No other product has a transparent working surface that lets you see your corrections while buffing. HD® UNOâ„¢ is 100% silicone-free and body shop safe! Unlike other products, HD Uno contains no fillers, which means paint defects will not reappear. Paint defects will not reappear. Can also be used on headlights, fiber glass, RV's, boats, and airplanes. Safe to use on fresh paint."
 
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