which collinite?

I've dealt with both products, and 845 is the easier of the two to apply, but I find myself going back to the 476s more often. I just finished waxing my Mach today, and I actually used Clearkote's Vanilla Moose via LC White pad, and then Clearkote's Caranuba Moose Wax on the roof, hood, fenders, and doors.



I then applied 476 s to the lower parts of my doors, and the front and rear bumper. I like to have a little more durable product sitting on the lower parts of my car just to help give it that little bit of extra protection. And in all honesty, I really couldn't tell the difference between 476s and Clearkote's Caranuba Moose Wax...I'll let the pictures do the talking....



Clearkote's Caranuba Moose on trunk, 476s on bumper

P1010436.jpg




Clearkote's Caranuba Moose on fender, 476s on bumper

P1010435.jpg




476s on bumper/exhaust

P1010437.jpg




Clearkote's Caranuba Moose on hood, 476s on bumper

P1010439.jpg




Clearkote's Caranuba Moose on door, 476s on lower panel starting at the vinyl strip

P1010440.jpg




Same as above

P1010441.jpg




Same as above

P1010442.jpg




I also apply 476s to all of my glass, headlights, tailpipes, and door jambs :D
 
sftempest66, I can't see any difference and I'm not a big domestic car, but you've got one of the cleanest looking Mustangs around. It's not as common to see to see white cars on here but yours have got to be one of the wettest looking white colored car I've seen posted on this forum.
 
BlackElantraGT said:
sftempest66, I can't see any difference and I'm not a big domestic car, but you've got one of the cleanest looking Mustangs around. It's not as common to see to see white cars on here but yours have got to be one of the wettest looking white colored car I've seen posted on this forum.



Man I sure would agree with that!! You don't usually see white paint "POP" like that!

Changeling
 
Accumulator said:
How did that combo work out for you? If the answer is "not so hot" I'd like to know about it as I recommend that approach a lot. Doing this stuff by hand is never easy...



WhiteFox- As mentioned, the thinner you apply it (while attaining good, uniform coverage) the easier it'll buff off. And applying it over the 1Z will make it a *little* easier too as you're basically layering it over the wax that the 1Z leaves behind. I'd expect the 1z to be the part of it that's a workout (sorry, but that's fair warning).



Note that you could just do a few panels after each of a series of regular washes, that way it'd never be a monumental undertaking. Once you've finished the whole car that way, give it one more coat of Collinite and it'll all look the same.



Accumulator, did you ever try applying the 476s to the whole vehicle and then removing it with the Cyclo and MF bonnets, if so did the cyclo buff out the vehicle easily?

Change
 
Changeling said:
Accumulator, did you ever try applying the 476s to the whole vehicle and then removing it with the Cyclo and MF bonnets, if so did the cyclo buff out the vehicle easily?



That's basically the only way I ever use 476S (or any other LSP I can think of) and it works fine. Now and then I buff off with a Meguiar's bonnet on the PC just to get some use out of that setup, but there's no real difference that I can discern.



If the point of concern was applying to the whole vehicle and thus letting it dry/haze for a good long while, that's my approach with every LSP applied to paint (as differentiated from LSPs applied to black plastic trim).



I don't recall ever having problems buffing 476S (or other LSP) residue off with the Cyclo using MF bonnets. The PC setup seems a bit taxed if the LSP is applied thick though.
 
Accumulator said:
If the point of concern was applying to the whole vehicle and thus letting it dry/haze for a good long while, that's my approach with every LSP applied to paint (as differentiated from LSPs applied to black plastic trim).



I applied one panel each time and buff it immediately after apply. I should have wait and how long? (I did not wait as too many complain that 476 is difficult to buff if you wait too much)



(I posted exactly how I use collinite few posts back)
 
deathlok said:
I applied one panel each time and buff it immediately after apply. I should have wait and how long? (I did not wait as too many complain that 476 is difficult to buff if you wait too much)..



I dunno if it's really a case of how long you *should* wait, but generally speaking the longer I let a wax sit the more durable it is. I've never had a downside from letting it sit.



Following a discussion with Mike Phillips (of Meguiar's), I started letting *all* my LSPs sit for a good long time before I buff them off. I even let some Souveran (a W-O-W-O type of wax) sit for over an hour. No problems at all.



Note that I apply my LSPs pretty thin, but still...I apply to the whole vehicle and then buff off, even when the vehicle is so big that it means the LSP will sit on there for a good long time.



But I'll also repeat my usual advice: if it's not broken I wouldn't be in a hurry to fix it ;) If you're happy with how your panel-at-a-time method is working, then don't give a second thought to how I do it :D
 
A quick quiz for collinite lovers.



last time I washed my car I polished (by hand) the whole hood with 1Z paint polish. Then I applied to the half hood collinite 845.

See the video bellow and tell me which half I have done with collinite. (the video is a week later during my weekly wash)

<embed width="430" height="389" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://vid177.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid177.photobucket.com/albums/w211/filippoud/new_16_9.flv"></embed>
 
Deathlok- Gott admit I can never tell what's what in tests like this, though I'd expect the passenger side to have the Collinite as the driver's side does show less impressive beading.



Funny, neither untopped 1ZPP or 845 behave like *either* side for me after one week (both would still be beading as if I'd just done them). When I did the Blazer's hatch with 1Z PP, I washed it two weeks later and still got tiny, tight beads- looked as if I'd *just* polished it. And 845 always looks "just waxed" for weeks on end :nixweiss I guess this just shows the ol' YMMV.
 
yeap the passengers side is the one with the collinite 845. I really impressed with the beading action of 845 thats why I posted the video.



Well spent money to collinite waxes.
 
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