which best way to remove orange peel ?

maxi

New member
HALLO



which bestway to remove orange peel ? the caris new 2007 black metalick charger ,i feel the paint not sharp



its must use sanding or some compound is enough.
 
If you are polishing with an aggressive pad and compound, wouldn't that lessen orange peel over time with each polishing? I have it all over my car so wet sanding all of it out is not practical.
 
Honestly, if you are doing this to a factory paint job. I suggest you don't do it. They are thin enough. And if you plan on wet sanding it, you may just remove too much UV protection in it and cause premature clear coat failure.



If it's after market, you may be able to get away with it.



EDIT: To POLISH out orange peel would take multiple and I mean multiple HEAVY PAD & HEAVY COMPOUND to even make a dent.
 
bert31 said:
If you are polishing with an aggressive pad and compound, wouldn't that lessen orange peel over time with each polishing? I have it all over my car so wet sanding all of it out is not practical.



Not really. A lot of the orange peel is below or right at the bottom the level of the clear coat (rather, very near to the bottom).



As such, wetsanding is the only way to reach that deep... and yea, you're definitely going to compromise a lot of clear coat just to get out orange peel on most paintjobs.
 
stiffdogg06 said:
Honestly, if you are doing this to a factory paint job. I suggest you don't do it. They are thin enough. And if you plan on wet sanding it, you may just remove too much UV protection in it and cause premature clear coat failure.



If it's after market, you may be able to get away with it.



EDIT: To POLISH out orange peel would take multiple and I mean multiple HEAVY PAD & HEAVY COMPOUND to even make a dent.





Darn. I was hoping that compounding my car each year for the next few years would make the orange peel less and less noticible. Oh well.
 
To remove orangepeel you want to grind off the tops of the bumps down to the level of the troughs in between them. Compounding grinds off everything. So you’d be removing the paint you want to keep, not just the bumps.



That’s why sanding is necessary. But I wouldn’t do that to factory paint either.





PC.
 
This was an aftermarket paint job, but yeah... a lot of wet sanding:



hurst_442_beforeafter21-vi.jpg
 
danponjican said:
This was an aftermarket paint job, but yeah... a lot of wet sanding..



That's a good example of the subject (and a nice job of correcting it too) :xyxthumbs



maxi- Add me to the list of "don't do it". At the very least I'd measure your paint thickness first and get a lot of practice under your belt before doing it to something you really care about. I've done a bit of wetsanding over the years, but I live with the orangepeel on my vehicles (hint hint).
 
the other pc said:
To remove orangepeel you want to grind off the tops of the bumps down to the level of the troughs in between them. Compounding grinds off everything. So you’d be removing the paint you want to keep, not just the bumps.



That’s why sanding is necessary. But I wouldn’t do that to factory paint either.



PC.



Oh, I figured during compounding, the high points or tops would have the most removed and the troughs would have very little removed resulting in the tops being lowered each time. Oh well.
 
I would like to see some pictures

is it a repaint?

is this the same car that you think you got fisheyes in the paint from using a QD?
 
Orange Peel!

I was under the impression that orange peel is usually in the paint. Under the clear

coat. If this is so, wouldn't you have to remove the clear coat correct the paint, then reapply the paint?
 
BigJimZ28 said:
I would like to see some pictures

is it a repaint?

is this the same car that you think you got fisheyes in the paint from using a QD?



yes also same car i have some like fisheye when use meguiars last toch ,and after asked meguiars why this happen ,they said :there is some product for use in clearcoat safe and other product is not sutailble !?:sadpace: see this link meguiars.com: FAQ - Which Meguiar's products are clear coat safe? only this product its safe when use in repaint car ,new car ,safe clearcoat , IMO this product have high qualitiy and most sucssefuly .
 
[quote name='Showroom Shine']Orange Peel!

I was under the impression that orange peel is usually in the paint. Under the clear

coat. If this is so, wouldn't you have to remove the clear coat correct the paint, then reapply the paint?[/QUOTE





yes , orang peel under clearcoat ,but ithink some factory when spray the car not have good qualitiy paint system or they would safe some times , the best finshing in car paint you can see in toyota ,hyundai,subaru, this best surface isaw



the bad finshing panit you can see in nissan car , jeep, dodge, chevrolet.
 
Showroom Shine said:
Orange Peel!

I was under the impression that orange peel is usually in the paint. Under the clear

coat. If this is so, wouldn't you have to remove the clear coat correct the paint, then reapply the paint?

yes , orang peel under clearcoat ,but ithink some factory when spray the car not have good qualitiy paint system or they would safe some times , the best finshing in car paint you can see in toyota ,hyundai,subaru, this best surface isaw



the bad finshing panit you can see in nissan car , jeep, dodge, chevrolet.
 
stiffdogg06 said:
Honestly, if you are doing this to a factory paint job. I suggest you don't do it. They are thin enough. And if you plan on wet sanding it, you may just remove too much UV protection in it and cause premature clear coat failure.



If it's after market, you may be able to get away with it.



EDIT: To POLISH out orange peel would take multiple and I mean multiple HEAVY PAD & HEAVY COMPOUND to even make a dent.



yes iwill go with haevy compund and good pad ,what can i do if the qualitiy inmy charger is not like toyota car !!
 
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