When to compound?

J

JerryInOCMD

New member
Just wondering what to look for to tell you that your cars finish needs to be compounded? My car's finish currently looks great (I've only had it for about two weeks), and all I've done is shampoo (wash) and use some "quick detailer" on it. On the next round of detailing I will probably wash, polish (Megs ultimate polish), and then protect (maybe Megs ultimate liquid wax)? Are these the correct steps?
 
I also have some Megs Cleaner Wax available...Would this be OK to use as a final step product? BTW, my car is a black 2011 VW Jetta Sportwagen.
 
Do you have a polisher?



I compound / cut any time I don't get the results I am looking for from a polishing step.
 
Don't have a polisher...What do you recommend? Also, after doing some reading, my next detail might just do the "Full-Monty", Wash, Clay, Polish, then Wax/Protect. I guess it' won't do any harm, and it will give me something to do for several hours. Hopefully we will get some cool weather soon.



BTW, My biggest concern/fear is discoloring black plastic/rubber trim while detailing.
 
Welcome to Autopia!!



You would only compound a car if the finish was very marred with scratches and swirl marks. It's something you don't want to do very often as it removes clear coat.



If you don't have a polisher I'd skip the Megs Ultimate Polish--my wife's car is a black Golf and the paint is very hard so I don't think you'd see much improvement using UP by hand. The best thing at this point would be Wash with a car wash product, decontaminate with something like IronX, then light claying if needed , then protect with the ULW (this is really a sealant, but has a great look to it and is very durable). Spend some time developing proper washing technique and picking up a quality wash mitt and microfiber towels etc. ULW will not stain trim, but the paste version will.



As you progress down this path you may want to pick up a dual action (DA)polisher like the Griots Garage DA(about $140) or if you want to keep the cost down to see if you like machine polishing you could start with the Harbor Freight DA for about $50. With either one you'd need to add a 5" backing plate ($15) 10-12 5.5" foam pads ($60-80) and the proper polishes.
 
I have both the Griot's and a PC 7424XP and I definitely say go for the Griot's. More power and a better warranty are very hard to beat.
 
JerryInOCMD said:
... I guess [machine polishing] won't do any harm, and it will give me something to do for several hours..
Click to expand...



Welcome to Autopia!



Doing actual harm (i.e., significant damage) *is* unlikely, but this stuff isn't quite idiotproof so be sure to do adequate research first and have a thorough understanding of what you're trying to accomplish, how you'll accomplish that, and what to watch out for. At the very least, you need to have proper inspection conditions. And it'll most likely take a *whole* lot longer than several hours. Not trying to dissuade or discourage you...
 
JerryInOCMD said:
BTW, My biggest concern/fear is discoloring black plastic/rubber trim while detailing.
Click to expand...



Oops, forgot to address that in my previous reply.



Generally you oughta keep polishes/compounds (think of a "compound" as merely being a more aggressive polish, that's the only functional diff) off such materials. Usually not *that* hard to just avoid contact, but you can always tape such surfaces off with blue/gree/yellow masking tape.



DO NOT get that Meguiar's cleaner wax on black trim! Eh, I wouldn't use it for anything but that's just me.



Many all-in-one products and LSPs (Last Step Products, i.e., waxes and sealants) don't stain such trim, and I usualy LSP such surfaces as that lasts/works a lot better for me than dressings (which I basically *never* use any more).
 
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