When is the paint completely gone?

R

Rob22315

Rob G
Here the sitch - my 93 red SAAB keeps hazing underneath the wax/sealant. At first, I thought it was oxidation but I use sealants with good UV protection and I still get more hazing. I'm thinking now that the paint is essentially completely dried out and the hazing is the dried pigment coming out of the paint. When I polish, I always get an applicator or pad full of red pigment. A couple of questions -



1. I'm not down to metal yet, can the paint still be conditioned enough to significantly reduce or eliminate the hazing?



2. Are there any products that can put oils back into the paint surface to reduce or halt continued drying?



3. What product will remove the current layer of hazing or dried pigment so I can get a glossy paint surface on which to put my wax/sealant?



I just started using DG products based on recommendations here but haven't tried the pre-cleaner yet. That may be the answer to #3.



Thanks in advance - RG
 
Although it's possible that you have single stage paint, I think it more likely that the clearcoat has failed and you are down to the color layer. If that is the case, you will never be able to get it to look "great". It has been suggested that heavy waxes like Meg's #16 or Collinite 476S do the best at hiding this problem.



If you have CC failure, it's most likely to be on the horizontal surfaces...do you get paint transfer to your applicator all over the car, even the vertical and lower panels? If so, you probably have SS paint, and you may be able to bring it back. Are you working with a machine? SS red loves to oxidize, if you are polishing by hand you may just have been unable to really remove the oxidation, and you are just "oiling" it and giving it a temporary fix.
 
I wonder if there is a listing somewhere of when manufacturers of each car started using clearcoat. It'd be interesting to see for sure.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
If so, you probably have SS paint, and you may be able to bring it back. Are you working with a machine? SS red loves to oxidize, if you are polishing by hand you may just have been unable to really remove the oxidation, and you are just "oiling" it and giving it a temporary fix.
Click to expand...



I get paint transfer mostly from the horizontal surfaces. I have a PC but am just learning how to use it. The first time I used the PC I used it with DG 501 on this car. I will probably get some of the DG pre-cleaner and use it next time unless someone here has a better suggestion.



Thanks again RG
 
I've kept severely compromised ss alive by using a Meguiar's "pure polish" (i.e., glaze)/carnauba approach. Doesn't work forever but it's the best thing I've found. Worked better for me than sealants and "more modern" approaches did.



I'd use Meg's polishes (e.g., #80 or #9) for the final polishing step and then something like #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal step #2 for the glaze, and then top with a good carnauba (e.g., Collinite or Meg's #26 now that #16 isn't commonly available). The Meguiar's "trade secret oils" can be very beneficial in cases like this.



That approach has even worked well for me in areas where I'd polished through the original paint down to the primer.



Just try to keep it out of the sun as best you can; UV exposure is the big problem.
 
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