What's you secret on getting FK1000 soft

Oh, and wouldn't sticking this in the microwave or on the stove be a bit dangerous? I wouldn't want to ignite it trying to warm it up that way
 
Guys, just use some pressure, then lighten up and spin.



Otherwise use your halogens or a hairdryer to heat up the applicator pad then do the same..
 
I can say with confidence that anyone who still thinks this is just "no big deal" doesn't have a can AS hard as the ones being described. I can literally wear my hand out SCRUBBING inside the tin with an applicator.. and then not be able to see ANYTHING.



Last night I used it for the first "easy" time. Here is what worked for. First of all, I have the LARGE, wide can - they sent me this while they had no distributor. I held the can in front of the halogen for about 20 secs. Then, I stuck a 4" black pad on my PC, set it on speed 1, held the can in one hand and turned the PC on with the pad ON the wax. Let it run for about 3-5 secs then rubbed any excess off on the edge of the can. This actually was the first time 1000P was even useable for me. I have used COUNTLESS sealants and waxes, and I have NEVER seen anything like this can of 1000P... I had almost given up on it.
 
So I'm not going crazy......that's glad to hear.

I have read where this stuff can be a bear to work with...



I have no qualms about thin layers, etc but it's just *hard* even to get the damm product onto the car...



What are the chances the latest manuf. was a ~~bad~~ batch.Of course the manuf. will say it's not....
 
sorry i'm at a loss here, forgive me, i've used 1000 so many times i never thought of softening it, i just stick my 4" pad in the tin turn on the pc for, literally, a second, and wax, or sealant in this case, to my hearts content. never ever had a problem. sometimes i'd spritz the pad with surfcity hodrod dsetailer, but other than that you are good to go.
 
chefwong said:
..What are the chances the latest manuf. was a ~~bad~~ batch.Of course the manuf. will say it's not....



I dunno, IME most manufacturers are cool with replacing an iffy product sample if only to keep a customer happy. Dunno specifically about FK, but I've had lots of presumably-defective products replaced with no problems.
 
mg031 said:
...The newer silver can the 1000p is hard as a rock...



...I guess the formula changed slightly?:confused: It is a more yellow color.



I think because FK1 repoured 1000P into the smaller diameter silver tins, the solvent may flashed away during the reheating process and the original balance was off. That can result in a hard, unusable paste (although not *very* likely).
 
I just opened both of my brand new tins and rubbed my ~warm finger~ directly on the paste and surely it would have at least softened up...to at least transfer to my finger. Nonetheless, only the surface gave way to very little transfer to my finger. This is how HARD I am trying to describe this stuff is....



Is this how you tin looks....



fk1000.jpg
 
I'm like Bence with the Big White tin.

Mine was so hard I made an FK1000 softening device that just about anyone can make:

-take a little chief smoker, gut the inside, weld up a special insert with a special circular holder that cradles the can suspended in space.

-Add a rheostat to the electric cord that supplies power.

-Get a surgical thermometer, drill a hole in the top of the Little Chief. Insert the thermometer (use batting for a snug fit).

-Use the thermometer and the rheostat to keep a constant 99.7 degrees farenheit for a minimum 3 hours. No solvent offgassing that way.

-I designed an integrated circuit board to control the on/off/temp settings so it's automatic (saves me a ton of fussing).





Hint: put the rig in the back forty where the dog can't smell the FK1000 and go snooping around. Last summer she knocked the Little Chief over, causing a small brush fire in the dried maple leaves. Now that the unit is way back near the edge of the bush, an occasional moose will come by for a sniff. I'll soon be adding a moose shield and a large firehose connector that pulls water directly from the river.



All in all, using scabbed and recycled parts, my FK1000 softener set me back about $450 so far and I got a great lead on some old firehose. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it's sure cooler than just sticking my pad in the tin and giving it a twist.

I could supply plans for the unit or the IC board if anyone is interested.

-John C.
 
When I was in basic training at Fort Knox, we used Johnson Paste Wax to put a mirror finish on our floors. Problem was, the wax was was hard as a rock. We just took the tin, turned it upside down and put the cig lighter to it til it caught fire. We let it burn 8-10 seconds, pour some of it on the floor and away we went. Floors looked like a mirror. While the rest of the platoon was outside doing push ups because there floors sucked, we sat inside nice and cozy. Thats what I did with 1000 when I first got it, worked like a charm. I'll be darn if I'm going to tear a tricep getting wax out of a tin can.
 
JohnZ3MC said:
I'm like Bence with the Big White tin.

Mine was so hard I made an FK1000 softening device that just about anyone can make:

-take a little chief smoker, gut the inside, weld up a special insert with a special circular holder that cradles the can suspended in space.

-Add a rheostat to the electric cord that supplies power.

-Get a surgical thermometer, drill a hole in the top of the Little Chief. Insert the thermometer (use batting for a snug fit).

-Use the thermometer and the rheostat to keep a constant 99.7 degrees farenheit for a minimum 3 hours. No solvent offgassing that way.

-I designed an integrated circuit board to control the on/off/temp settings so it's automatic (saves me a ton of fussing).





Hint: put the rig in the back forty where the dog can't smell the FK1000 and go snooping around. Last summer she knocked the Little Chief over, causing a small brush fire in the dried maple leaves. Now that the unit is way back near the edge of the bush, an occasional moose will come by for a sniff. I'll soon be adding a moose shield and a large firehose connector that pulls water directly from the river.



All in all, using scabbed and recycled parts, my FK1000 softener set me back about $450 so far and I got a great lead on some old firehose. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it's sure cooler than just sticking my pad in the tin and giving it a twist.

I could supply plans for the unit or the IC board if anyone is interested.

-John C.



:D :chuckle: :grinno: :funnypost
 
JohnZ3MC said:
I'm like Bence with the Big White tin.

Mine was so hard I made an FK1000 softening device that just about anyone can make:

-take a little chief smoker, gut the inside, weld up a special insert with a special circular holder that cradles the can suspended in space.

-Add a rheostat to the electric cord that supplies power.

-Get a surgical thermometer, drill a hole in the top of the Little Chief. Insert the thermometer (use batting for a snug fit).

-Use the thermometer and the rheostat to keep a constant 99.7 degrees farenheit for a minimum 3 hours. No solvent offgassing that way.

-I designed an integrated circuit board to control the on/off/temp settings so it's automatic (saves me a ton of fussing).





Hint: put the rig in the back forty where the dog can't smell the FK1000 and go snooping around. Last summer she knocked the Little Chief over, causing a small brush fire in the dried maple leaves. Now that the unit is way back near the edge of the bush, an occasional moose will come by for a sniff. I'll soon be adding a moose shield and a large firehose connector that pulls water directly from the river.



All in all, using scabbed and recycled parts, my FK1000 softener set me back about $450 so far and I got a great lead on some old firehose. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it's sure cooler than just sticking my pad in the tin and giving it a twist.

I could supply plans for the unit or the IC board if anyone is interested.

-John C.



Is it just me or did you build a toaster oven?:confused:
 
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