Whats the difference with this Meg's Deep Crystal System and there other products???

C

Cult Leader

New member
this is what i was thinking of doin before i saw Megs deep crystal system steps 1,2,3 at my local auto store. I was gonna do Meg's 80 or 9, just saw the 9 actually so im not to sure which is better for my car. Then top that with NXT, then top that with #16. But i see this deep crystal system which claims to do the same as the following Meg's products i just listed. The only thing i would change is throw in the NXT as step 2 of that deep crystal system if i were to go with it. So whats the difference with this deep crystal system??? I did actually buy step 1, the swril remover cause of an emergency and thats all the store had. It worked fine. Plus my paint is only 3 years old and its in good condidition. So if any one has info or comments please leave them, thanks
 
well im not gonna rub my paint off with #80 will ??? My finish isnt oxodized at all. Just has some fine swirls and scratches. Would #80 still apply to me or is that for really neglected finishes??
 
Cult Leader said:
this is what i was thinking of doin before i saw Megs deep crystal system steps 1,2,3 at my local auto store. I was gonna do Meg's 80 or 9, just saw the 9 actually so im not to sure which is better for my car. Then top that with NXT, then top that with #16. But i see this deep crystal system which claims to do the same as the following Meg's products i just listed. The only thing i would change is throw in the NXT as step 2 of that deep crystal system if i were to go with it. So whats the difference with this deep crystal system??? I did actually buy step 1, the swril remover cause of an emergency and thats all the store had. It worked fine. Plus my paint is only 3 years old and its in good condidition. So if any one has info or comments please leave them, thanks
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If you were to use the DC products, you'd need at least their step 1 and step 2. I would go step1, step2, NXT, #16 based on what you want to use.



Or, I would go Step1, #9, NXT, #16. The Deep Crystal line is a very weak consumer-grade setup designed to prevent inexperienced and uninformed people from causing permanent dammage.
 
ok well then that settles it then i wont be useing it, was just curious as to what it was about. So ill dor the 80, NXT, and top it with 16. Am i ok with 80??? or should i do 9???? 80 isnt abrasive or anything like a compund is it???
 
a quick way to get good results is (according to a megs rep).....



medallion premium paint cleaner

nxt
 
ok i understand that. Ive used NXT no problem. 16 just paste wax i know how to use it. But now my concern is 80. How abrasive is it??? My car is a 2002 galactic blue jetta with the paint in very good condition. I only have fine swirls and scratches. I first will clay it cuz its never been done. But should i use 80??? or something a little less like 9????
 
ok i understand that. Ive used NXT no problem. 16 just paste wax i know how to use it. But now my concern is 80. How abrasive is it??? My car is a 2002 galactic blue jetta with the paint in very good condition. I only have fine swirls and scratches. I first will clay it cuz its never been done. But should i use 80??? or something a little less like 9????
 
Cult Leader said:
ok i understand that. Ive used NXT no problem. 16 just paste wax i know how to use it. But now my concern is 80. How abrasive is it??? My car is a 2002 galactic blue jetta with the paint in very good condition. I only have fine swirls and scratches. I first will clay it cuz its never been done. But should i use 80??? or something a little less like 9????
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#80 and #9 are almost equal; if anything 80 is the weaker of the two. You're comparing the Mirror Glaze line (#9) to the Body Shop Professional line (#80) but as I said they're REALLY similar.
 
the guy a Meg's just told me scratchX is better then both 80 & 9 when applying by hand. he recomends to do the whole car with the scratchX, any thoughts on that?
 
#80 is only a little more aggressive than #9. Both are pretty mild.



Unless your paint is really thin the only way to "rub it off" with #80 is to get all Neanderthal with a rotary. By PC or hand it's very safe.



ScratchX is more aggressive than #9 or #80 when used by hand. It's not meant to be used by machine. I usually keep ScratchX handy for isolated spots. It could be kind of tedious (and possibly pricey) to do the whole car with it but it would work very well. It really depends on the car's condition.



In Meguiar's Deep Crystal system Step One is a mild cleaner to remove surface contaminants and reduce surface defects, Step Two is pure polish (what some companies would call a glaze) to "feed" the paint with oils and enrich the appearance and Step Three is a wax to protect the finish.



#9 and #80 combine the cleaning and glazing steps. They both have super fine abrasives so they remove defects more aggressively than DC One.



DC Three and #16 are both straight waxes.



NXT Tech Wax has a small cleaning effect but is primarily a protecting polymer sealant. Normally you'd use it instead of wax. Topping NXT with #16 would be for "bringing out a look" rather than adding protection.





PC.
 
ok thanks, i just ordered the Meg's 16 online. So my wax process will go as follows. clay, 9, NXT, 16. I cant wait to get started. Ill post up some pics when im done as well
 
As for the Meg's DC system, it is always nice to see what Meguiar's has to say about their products...

Step 1 - DC Paint Cleaner -
â€Â¦non-abrasive paint cleaner
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. That would make this product similar in function to Klasseâ€â„¢s AIO and Poorboyâ€â„¢s Pro Polish. Not exactly the same in performance, but similar in function.

It safely removes road grime, surface contamination, light oxidation, swirls and light scratches to restore damaged and dull finishes.
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I will disagree that a non-abrasive product will remove swirls and light scratches. I also have never used it to remove oxidation (even light) so I canâ€â„¢t address that.
Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner prepares all paint finishes for polishing and waxing.
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Step 2 - DC Polish -
â€Â¦pure polish specially formulated for dark colored cars. The formula creates a dazzling, high gloss finish by conditioning and nourishing the paint, making dark colors darker and reflections deeper and more clear. It is that extra step necessary to create the ultimate, wet-look show car shine.
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Just last year, I reacquainted myself with the DC system steps 1 and 2 since they had been sitting neglected on a lower shelf. For OTC products they perform quite well. The Step 2 Polish in particular leaves a well prepped surface with a very glossy appearance.



In comparing the Step 2 Polish to #80 and #9, as it has already been mentioned, #80 has diminishing abrasives. In fact, I found those abrasives to be a bit less aggressive than Meguiarâ€â„¢s abrasive chart would imply. As Meguiarâ€â„¢s described, I found the DC Polish to have minimal (if any) abrasive nature. The #9 product has been a disappointment for me. Now given the choice to use #9 or the DC Polish, I would reach for the consumer product every time. If I had to choose one of the three products, I would probably choose the #80 as it will provide the ability to remove more defects than either of the other two, and it finishes out quite nicely as far as gloss.





I have never used ScratchX, but again referring (and deferring) to Meguiarâ€â„¢s product description and claimsâ€Â¦



ScratchX



Guaranteed to be the most effective way to remove fine scratches and swirls from automotive paint by hand, ScratchX removes light surface contaminants, oxidation, and blemishes while it enhances paint color and clarity. ScratchX is not a âہ“cover upâ€Â� and will not cause additional scratches to your paint surface.
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EDIT Oops, I'm a bit slow on my response.
 
Mr. Clean- I too thought that DC#1 is non-abrasive. Haven't used it since the late '80s, but it didn't remove any marring for me back then.
 
Cult leader, are you doing this by hand or PC? That will be the biggest factor for what polish to use.



As far as #9 is concerned, *I* wouldn't use that except with a rotary...IMO you may as well rub lotion onto your paint...too disappointingly mild.



#80 is much more effective (with a PC, anyway). You can actually do some correcting with it and leaves a great finish...or you can try MPP.
 
Accumulator, Well my bottles are a little bit newer than '80s vintage, but not by much :o They are a testament to the shelf life of at least these Meg's products. It also proved to me that every once in a while, I should look on those lower shelves and introduce myself again to long since forgotten products.
 
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