Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
BigJimZ28 said:
I thought only EX was ok for on top of 'nuba...that's ok, I hate EX-P anyway, it repeats on me.
What's the difference in these two? (Meg's #3 & #7)
- Thread starter Bbasso
- Start date
I thought only EX was ok for on top of 'nuba...that's ok, I hate EX-P anyway, it repeats on me.
BIOLINK
Icon Detailing
Accumulator said:[Insert cynical comment here regarding what Meguiar's cutomer-service people *currently* say #7 is made for, and why]
The whole "how can a LSP be durable if applied over something that's not durable" question sorta intrigues me, and no, I don't have an answer :nixweiss
I just report the news. LOL
I certainly won't argue with what some have tried and get good results from. I have not tried anything over #7. Maybe I will.
I've learned a lot from the forum that works against conventional wisdom. I am here to learn as well. If it works, it works. I don't need the extra step so I just polish/seal (sometimes a wax topper).
Meg also told me #7 alone would not seal fresh paint. What do you think of that?
:spot
SuperBee364
New member
Wow, there's a lot of good info in this thread.. subscribed.
EBPcivicsi
GOT PREP?
I will just add a little note here for future readers....
Note that when I got into all of this detailing "stuff" I would use Meguiars products to make my vehciles look "nice." My eye is trained for this look and I still prefer the handsome, signature Meguiars look. I eventually learned the whole line of products and they were my "baseline" products in the world of detailing.
^^I just note that because you should know that I am a bit biased based on my nostalgic feelings for the products.
I think that all of the pure polishes mentioned in this thread have a somewhat similar look. They will make paint darker with their "trade secret oils" and I like that on *most* cars. As accumulator stated, the #5 is just about as easy to use as any LSP. The #3/#81 while still a bit more user-friendly can definitely give you a bit of trouble on some paints if you do not take the time to figure them out. If you are using #7, you should really take the time to find the post where Mike Phillips expalins how and why he uses it.
Having said that whole bag of useless wind--if I am going to a show tomorrow I would prep my car to a swirl-free finish, apply #7, and then apply two coats of NXT2.0. I just feel that in *my eyes* (looks alone here), nothing quite makes a car "show car ready" like that combo. Lots of variables to discuss here, but that's my take.
Note that when I got into all of this detailing "stuff" I would use Meguiars products to make my vehciles look "nice." My eye is trained for this look and I still prefer the handsome, signature Meguiars look. I eventually learned the whole line of products and they were my "baseline" products in the world of detailing.
^^I just note that because you should know that I am a bit biased based on my nostalgic feelings for the products.
I think that all of the pure polishes mentioned in this thread have a somewhat similar look. They will make paint darker with their "trade secret oils" and I like that on *most* cars. As accumulator stated, the #5 is just about as easy to use as any LSP. The #3/#81 while still a bit more user-friendly can definitely give you a bit of trouble on some paints if you do not take the time to figure them out. If you are using #7, you should really take the time to find the post where Mike Phillips expalins how and why he uses it.
Having said that whole bag of useless wind--if I am going to a show tomorrow I would prep my car to a swirl-free finish, apply #7, and then apply two coats of NXT2.0. I just feel that in *my eyes* (looks alone here), nothing quite makes a car "show car ready" like that combo. Lots of variables to discuss here, but that's my take.
imported_rydawg1
New member
Haha.... Nostalgic is right. I haven't used #3 or #7 since 1991.:aww::lol:lol
Hahhaaa I never ment for this thread to blow up the way it has... LOL!
Glad I asked.
As for the amount of steps, I don't mind hooking up my personal car. Not wasting anything
Let's see my steps.
wash
clay
SSR2.5
SSR1
Klasse
Meg's #7
Meg's 26
EX-P
and maybe tomorrow a quick coat of #26 again for the hell of it.. not that it needs it. I over do many things
but the women love it :har har:
Glad I asked.
As for the amount of steps, I don't mind hooking up my personal car. Not wasting anything
Let's see my steps.
wash
clay
SSR2.5
SSR1
Klasse
Meg's #7
Meg's 26
EX-P
and maybe tomorrow a quick coat of #26 again for the hell of it.. not that it needs it. I over do many things
but the women love it :har har:Accumulator
Well-known member
MDRX8- I'm not surprised that #7/LSP mix works well...never tried it though at least not that I can recall. But then, heh heh, I can't recally a few things from the '70s so who knows :chuckle:
The solvent action of #7, let alone the friction from the application/buffing, might be too much for Souveran. I used #7 to prep before re-waxing many times and it cleaned off not-fresh LSPs for me, but I guess I was being kinda aggressive about it.
ebpcivicsi- Yeah, what you said :xyxthumbs Except that now that I'm old and lazy I'd use #5 or #3 instead of #7 and tell myself "good enough"
biolink- Yeah, I wasn't :argue with you or anything and this wouldn't be the first time I had, uhm...issues with something a Meg's rep said (I once went so far as to complain to Mike Phillips about some of the goofy stuff one of their guys told me).
And yeah, #7 is *absolutely safe* for fresh repaints. I'd sure use #5 instead, but #7 won't hurt anything. Just don't go rubbing too hard in an effort to get it buffed just right (that's why I'd go with #5 instead, it's Accumulator-proof).
rydawg- I hadn't used #7 for ages either but around 2005 I had (short-term) ownership of an old Jag. It had really crappy ss lacquer and the #7 was *just* the ticket. I used a ton of the stuff on it- first to pretreat the dried/oxidized paint and then to spruce it up enough that it wasn't too embarassing to show to prospective buyers.
The smell of the stuff was a real trip down memory lane, but so was the hassle of getting it buffed perfectly (on a dark color where every streak was obvious, and the compromised finish lead to a lot of such issues).
The solvent action of #7, let alone the friction from the application/buffing, might be too much for Souveran. I used #7 to prep before re-waxing many times and it cleaned off not-fresh LSPs for me, but I guess I was being kinda aggressive about it.
ebpcivicsi- Yeah, what you said :xyxthumbs Except that now that I'm old and lazy I'd use #5 or #3 instead of #7 and tell myself "good enough"
biolink- Yeah, I wasn't :argue with you or anything and this wouldn't be the first time I had, uhm...issues with something a Meg's rep said (I once went so far as to complain to Mike Phillips about some of the goofy stuff one of their guys told me).
And yeah, #7 is *absolutely safe* for fresh repaints. I'd sure use #5 instead, but #7 won't hurt anything. Just don't go rubbing too hard in an effort to get it buffed just right (that's why I'd go with #5 instead, it's Accumulator-proof).
rydawg- I hadn't used #7 for ages either but around 2005 I had (short-term) ownership of an old Jag. It had really crappy ss lacquer and the #7 was *just* the ticket. I used a ton of the stuff on it- first to pretreat the dried/oxidized paint and then to spruce it up enough that it wasn't too embarassing to show to prospective buyers.
The smell of the stuff was a real trip down memory lane, but so was the hassle of getting it buffed perfectly (on a dark color where every streak was obvious, and the compromised finish lead to a lot of such issues).
BIOLINK
Icon Detailing
Accumulator said:
No worries.
I tried using #7 with a PC and the result was similar to chewing gum. LOL. Applied by hand very easily. I mainly got it to lube the paint and keep it a bit shiny until I could apply a real LSP.
I like to just top off with wax now, much easier. And, I thought I was the only one sniffing the stuff.
:getdown