What's the difference in these two? (Meg's #3 & #7)

B

Bbasso

New member
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #7 Show Car Glaze

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #3 Pro Machine Glaze



Other then the obvious name difference, what is if there is any difference with these two?



Honestly I'm looking for something I can pick up local (not much time to order) that has some sort of fillers to clean up my 100,000 mile paint. But I'm looking to use wax then a sealant over everything... and probably end up putting another coat of wax :P



thanks.
 
I think Accumulator is around this afternoon, so he will be able to give you a precise distinction between the two...but I can say that you'll probably need to keep the (pure) sealant out of the equation which won't really want to bond to the glaze or the wax, although I guess some people have successfully used the WOWA sealants over wax (I haven't tried that).
 
Yeah...here I am. I was just about to sign off when I saw this.



Bbasso- The #7 and #3 are functionally similar, with the #3 being more user-friendly and the #7 being a little richer looking. Both work fine via PC/hand/etc. There's a different degree of, uhm...oiliness to the #3 that makes it better suited to use by machine but *IMO* that really only mattered back in the days when people used it via rotary. I myself prefer #5, but #3/#7/#81 are all pretty much the same stuff. Even Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish is pretty similar



BUT- none of these are likely to fit the bill here. IME they don't work well over unpolished paint. You really oughta use at least a paint cleaner first lest you be seriously disappointed, and if you're gonna do that you might as well use something with a bit of cut to it.



The Pure Polish (i.e. #3/#5/#7/#81/DC#2) by itself will only do the most minimal, insignificant job of "cleaning up" (or otherwise improving) the paint when used by itself.



Using a Meg's pure polish, by itself, on a 100K car just isn't likely to turn out well.



After using such a product, I'd follow it with a Meguiar's LSP, such as NXT. Other products might have issues bonding to the Pure Polish but Meg's stuff is made to work OK on it.



Doing the sealant/wax combo thing is really pointless if you're not gonna do the full correction-type detail. Any minor pluses from that sort of LSP combo would be utterly insignificant on uncorrected 100K paint.



I'd rethink this one and try a different approach; I'd do two steps: abrasive polish then LSP. Probably something like #80/M205 or something similar (there are many products that I'm not familiar with on the market these days) followed by NXT. Much better use of the time/effort/$ IMO.



Note that the local autobody/paint supply place oughta have a good selection of products.
 
Just last week a guy over at Detailing World as asking about applying #7 by rotary. I directed him to #3 instead. I understand that #7 can gum up the pad pretty quickly when applied by machine.



Tim Lingor, I know, is a great fan of applying #3 by rotary. He believes it gives a liquid look that cannot be achieved by hand application.
 
Does he apply it over his LSP ??? Since it is a "pure polish" it is not suppose to effect the LSP.



akimel said:
Just last week a guy over at Detailing World as asking about applying #7 by rotary. I directed him to #3 instead. I understand that #7 can gum up the pad pretty quickly when applied by machine.



Tim Lingor, I know, is a great fan of applying #3 by rotary. He believes it gives a liquid look that cannot be achieved by hand application.
Click to expand...
 
MDRX8 said:
Does he apply it over his LSP ??? Since it is a "pure polish" it is not suppose to effect the LSP.
Click to expand...



No. As noted by Accumulator, one typically applies the pure polish over a surface that has been cleaned with a pre-wax paint cleaner and/or abrasively polished. The wax or sealant goes on top of the pure polish. So the process is: clean/polish - pure polish - LSP.
 
Sorry for not giving out enough info.

I did a lot of work on my car, SSR2.5, SSR1 then Klasse. I'd like to add a little more deepth and shine while hopefully filling some of those ever so slight marks with a glaze. Then when I'm ok with it, toss a coat of #26 on and the EX-P on top of it all.

Just was reading PB's and saw "Natty’s Paste Wax" which ideally sounds like just what I want. But I don't have the time to order.

So the #7 is at the local autozone... I guess I'll give that a try.



thanks for all the help/advice.
 
#7 is called show car glaze. The way it got it's name is just before a car show, you would apply a coat(s) of #7. I have called McGuiar's and asked them before and they said it would not remove the LSP. So who knows?
 
MDRX8 said:
#7 is called show car glaze. The way it got it's name is just before a car show, you would apply a coat(s) of #7. I have called McGuiar's and asked them before and they said it would not remove the LSP. So who knows?
Click to expand...



in Meg's speak pure polish is a just a glaze



yes it can be used over a LSP, the only problem is it will not last long

unless you "lock in in" with a LSP
 
Give Meg's Gold Class a try. It falls into it's own little realm of being a polish/wax. Think of it like #7 and a wax combined....if that's what you are after. If you do go the #7 route then make sure you use VERY little product and apply it like lotion to the paint. Work it in lightly until it's thin enough it starts to go clear and remove the residue right away or it can be a bear to remove. Also, using two towels to remove it will help. Use one towel to basically break the *skin* that #7 leaves and the second towel to remove the rest. This works much better that just trying to buff off the residue in one step...did I mention to use VERY little product?
 
Bbasso- Ah, OK *now* I follow you! I dunno how well the #7 will work on top of Klasse, might just sit there and never really take a "set". Never tried it though so :nixweiss



Think I'd go with a "pure polish" that dries more completely, something like #5. Gee, I always seem to find some reason to plug that stuff but I really do like using it.





MDRX8 said:
#7 is called show car glaze. The way it got it's name..
Click to expand...



Heh heh, and it used to be called "sealer and reseal glaze" :D I can imagine some cynical remarks I could make about how/why it got renamed...you know, effective marketing and all that ;)



I know a scad of people who *do* put it on showcars for the quick, temporary boost in looks it can offer though. IMO they'd be better off doing a lot of other things instead ;)



Oh, and if you apply a Meg's pure polish *aggressively enough* it'll do a surprising amount of cleaning. I used #7 as a non-abrasive paint cleaner way (and I mean *WAY*) back in the day. It wasn't so much the #7 that did the cleaning, moreso the application method. Using it or #3 via rotary could easily compromise an existing LSP, it'd depend on how the work was done.
 
#7 on top of Klasse worked out very well today, I'm happy.

Applied with PC med-speed, finishing pad and yes it did have some cleaning power, but not too much ;) Went on easy, wiped off fairly easy.

topped with #26 then finished with PB's EX-P.

I might put another coat of something tomorrow... but not sure yet :P

thanks agaon for the advice.
 
Bbasso- Glad it worked out for you! Heh heh, just gotta ask: how did you notice it had some cleaning power? I'm guessing the pad ended up a little soiled by the end of the job.
 
Bbasso said:
Went on easy, wiped off fairly easy.

topped with #26 then finished with PB's EX-P.
Click to expand...



Obviously, you can do whatever you want, but how did you decide to put a pure sealant on top of a fresh coat of wax? In the old days, the members would be howling at that.
 
I noticed that the pad picked up very little oxidation, leading me to think there was some dirt too.



I've been doing the sealant over wax for years, never had a complaint and only compliments on how long the car stays looking good. (don't follow rules, I make my own lol)

I do plan on putting a coat of wax over the EX-P today... just because.

If my camera did not have trouble focusing I'd take a bunch of pictures, but it's snapped over 12,000 pics and seen better days.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Obviously, you can do whatever you want, but how did you decide to put a pure sealant on top of a fresh coat of wax? In the old days, the members would be howling at that.
Click to expand...



EX-P is one of the few that will bond on top of stuff like that

I have even used it on top of RMG with no problems



still one of my favorate combos on black

proper prep, RMG, EX-P, Natty's Blue
 
Bbasso said:
#7 on top of Klasse worked out very well today, I'm happy.

Applied with PC med-speed, finishing pad and yes it did have some cleaning power, but not too much ;) Went on easy, wiped off fairly easy.

topped with #26 then finished with PB's EX-P.

I might put another coat of something tomorrow... but not sure yet :P

thanks agaon for the advice.
Click to expand...



That's a lot of steps. Are you trying to use up old product?



I understood from a conversation I had with Meg Customer Service that #7 is used as a prep for shows on top of all other products (because it won't remove the wax/sealant). It improves shine because it's oily. I would question any other LSP's ability to stick to it. Meg told me #7 really is not a glaze in the typical cut/polish/glaze/seal sense of the word. Glaze is only in the name. It's for show. (So I understood from Meg)

:think:
 
biolink said:
..I understood from a conversation I had with Meg Customer Service that #7 is used as a prep for shows on top of all other products (because it won't remove the wax/sealant).... Meg told me #7 really is not a glaze in the typical cut/polish/glaze/seal sense of the word. Glaze is only in the name. It's for show. (So I understood from Meg)

:think:
Click to expand...



[Insert cynical comment here regarding what Meguiar's cutomer-service people *currently* say #7 is made for, and why ;) ]



... I would question any other LSP's ability to stick to it...
Click to expand...



Plenty of wax-type LSPs bond surprisingly well to #7. My family used #7 topped with #16 for decades (like back when #16 was the "new wax") and a few people here still use that combo. Give it a try sometime if you like #7, it's easy to prove to yourself that the combo works OK.



The whole "how can a LSP be durable if applied over something that's not durable" question sorta intrigues me, and no, I don't have an answer :nixweiss



I've always suspected that the #7 blends with the LSP and thus "dries" more than it usually would. Nah, it doesn't look the same as untopped #7, but it doesn't need redone after a few days (or a rain) either. And topping with LSP doesn't completely undo the #7-effect by a long shot.



Bbasso said:
I noticed that the pad picked up very little oxidation, leading me to think there was some dirt too.
Click to expand...



Such cleaning is, IMO, often as much a result of friction from the pad as from the solvent action of the product.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top