Whats a better wax Zymol Carbon or HD Poxy

Why is that? I thought the high pressure water removes the dust and the CHAMOIS definitely doesn't scratch the paint

U mean washing with wash shampoo & wash mitt is necessary each time?

I do need some technique I can give the hand-wash guys use (as not always I have time to wash by myself).

Does the wash shampoo remove the WAX?
 
Boaz said:
Why is that? I thought the high pressure water removes the dust and the CHAMOIS definitely doesn't scratch the paint

U mean washing with wash shampoo & wash mitt is necessary each time?

I do need some technique I can give the hand-wash guys use (as not always I have time to wash by myself).

Does the wash shampoo remove the WAX?
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Simply washing the car with a pressure washer only is NOT going to remove all the dirt. When you drag a chamois over an unclean surface the chamois will pick up some of the remaining dirt and contaminants. At that point your chamois has become soft sandpaper, not something you want in contact with your car's finish.



A quality car wash shampoo will not strip wax, they are formulated not to.
 
Well, I do hope it's fixable.

If I get some pictures of it, can people here suggest the right treatment?

Although the car looks new, in the sun I can see the swirls.
 
Just to add to GatorJ's comments, roadfilm is an oil/chemical-based sticky film that requires detergent to dissolve and a mechanical action to remove.



Just water, even under high pressure, only removes the large grit but leaves all the fine stuff still on the surface. Wiping it with anything will marr the paint.
 
Alfisti said:
Just to add to GatorJ's comments, roadfilm is an oil/chemical-based sticky film that requires detergent to dissolve and a mechanical action to remove.



Just water, even under high pressure, only removes the large grit but leaves all the fine stuff still on the surface. Wiping it with anything will marr the paint.
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Rubbing salt into my wounds...

At least it was done only three times, before that the car was washed with soap but I think the cleaners mitt was bad.
 
Boaz said:
Rubbing salt into my wounds...

At least it was done only three times, before that the car was washed with soap but I think the cleaners mitt was bad.
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Sorry...didn't mean to make you feel worse. :sadwavey:



At-least it's reversible. :)
 
Boaz, just as Paul said, road film is a sticky, greasy something which clings to a car's surface. Exhaust gases, especially diesel fumes settle onto the body and trap small grit particles. They need a detergent and a very soft wash mitt to remove them. Don't expect to wash a car completely touchless. There are products which are going into this direction, but some kind of gentle mechanical agitation is almost always needed.



Washing with the improper technique/materials can result in a marred surface in just a single go. You have to check even the mitt if it was suited to scratchless washing. The drying media should be completely pristine after drying with no soiling whatsoever.



Again, as Paul said, the situation is reversible, with the minor sacrifice of a few microns of clearcoat which has to polished away.



Most important lesson: learn the proper way to perform a marring free wash. This will ensure the healthiest clearcoat possible, because you don't have polish it again and again. Of course, very fine marring will always show up, but this is easily correctable with a finishing polish once or twice a year.
 
Bence said:
Boaz, just as Paul said, road film is a sticky, greasy something which clings to a car's surface. Exhaust gases, especially diesel fumes settle onto the body and trap small grit particles. They need a detergent and a very soft wash mitt to remove. Don't expect to wash a car completely touchless. There are products which are going into this direction, but some kind of gentle mechanical agitation is almost always needed.



Washing with the improper technique/materials can result in a marred surface in just a single go. You have to check even the mitt if it was suited to scratchless washing. The drying media should be completely pristine after drying with no soiling whatsoever.



Again, as Paul said, the situation is reversible, with the minor sacrifice of a few microns of clearcoat which has to polished away.



Most important lesson: learn the proper way to perform a marring free wash. This will ensure the healthiest clearcoat possible, because you don't have polish it again again. Of course, very fine marring will always show up, but this is easily correctable with a finishing polish once or twice a year.
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^^What he said.^^



You can tell Bence's a journalist. :chuckle:
 
So which polish should I use (I'll let a pro do the job for me)?

I do own SwirlX I bought a while ago, but haven't used it.
 
ppastos said:
Got it plus it makes sense that the prep work (ie: swirl removal...) will make the vehicle look better. Same applies to applying paint so it makes plenty sense.



My new plan is to use Klasse AIO and Collinite 472S on top of the wash, clay, polish. But the last 3 are the most important ones.



Thanks you for this great site and everyone for the help.
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hey bro I don't understand why your so sure about things u don't really know much about, friends might not know even 1% of what some folks have been telling you. Polishing the car is what gets the most shine, sealants will ADD shine to it, try black fire wet diamond, its a great product and looks like wet paint. Hey, some day if you will master paint correction, you'll beat all your friends and they'll be asking you for advises.
 
Bence said:
Hi Boaz, welcome to the forum!



Well, multiple steps are (not all necessary):



- Wash

- Decontamination (removal of industrial fallout, ferrous contamination, making the paint squeaky clean)

- Clay

- Compounding with a coarser, high performance abrasive to remove major paint defects (fine tuning according to the exact needs; choose compounding and/or polishing pads accordingly - from aggressive twisted wool to fine polishing pad)

- Polishing with a middle strength, high performance polish to further refine the surface (from coarser, more aggressive foam pads to finishing pads)

- Finishing/finessing with the finest available abrasives to achieve the highest possible gloss (finishing and finessing pads; preferably functionally nonabrasive)

- IPA wipedowns between compounding/polishind steps to remove polishing oils and to reveal the true condition of the paint

- Paint cleaner as necessary; as a base for carnaubas - sealants just need bare paint to bond to

- LSP of your choice; from hard pastes to sprayable liquids or WOWA sealants, covalent silane coatings

- QD



The entire arsenal can be necessary even for a 1 yr old vehicle if it's neglected. Even brand new cars can spend considerable time on the lots, requiring full decon/correction, because of fallout, hack washes, and dealer prep. In these cases, the clear is already damaged and needs correction. Clearcoat is just transparent paint, not a wonderthingy.



OOS = Optimum Opti-Seal
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About the swirls: Do I need the above full procedure for that (my guess is that mid and high polish is not needed just a slight one for the swirls?)?

Can u recommend which products to use on each step (like Meguiars Swirlx etc)?
 
Boaz, for the best possible assessment, please post a picture of your car's surface illuminated with a halogen.



In your case however, my blind guess would be 2 hits with Meguiar's 205; one hit with a polishing, the other with a finishing pad.



Of course, you'll need an LSP of your choice.
 
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