What would you buy?......

ShawnF350

New member
Work has been generous with overtime so I am on the fence as to what to buy next from Autopia. I mainly do family and friends vehicles....
I tossed the rotary idea in Jan and went with a Rupes LHR15. Thanks to "The Driver"s post in my 'Do I need a Rotary' thread.

I currently own the following:
LC 5.5" Flat pads
Griot's 6" pads
Griot's 3" pads

Griots 6" DA *(2nd gen)
Griot's 3" DA (2nd gen)
Flex 3401
Rupes LHR15
VX5000 steamer
Rigid 4gal Shopvac w/ accessories
Some Meguiars
mostly every Poorboys Product available.

* Foam Canon
* gas power washer
I took the backing plate off of the Griots 3' and put it on the 6" for now. To me, the 3" Griot's is only good for wax application.

I have interest in the Rupes mini LHR75 or Rupes 21 Or anything else that I may be missing that anyone suggests.

Does the 21 really correct that much faster than the 15? (but then theres the expense of another 5" backing plate)
Is the mini worth the cost or is a converted 6" Griots good enough?

I may end up selling a few polishers after i see what i'm keeping in the fall.

Thanks for any input,
Shawn
 
Last edited:
I have the rupes mini and since my son brought my other flex down. I got the interchangeable flex backing plates

If you get the rupes, remember to get the rupes pads though
 
I would love a pe14, do you have a foam gun. Tornado is a good way to blow a hundred. Mtm foam cannon is my favorite, upgrade a pressure washer. Maybe a carpet xtractor.
 
I also own a Rupes Mini and I love it. Like Ronkh said, you would have to invest in Rupes pads if you purchase the mini. I had a couple of lake country foam pads failed on me when I did a test run. It definitely produces more power than the GG3. However, I had a GG6 before dedicated to a 3" backing plate and I can say the correction is really similar to the mini. Except the comfort wasn't there (since GG6 is heavier).
 
Pressure washer, foamgun, Boar's Hair Brush from Universal Brush.
Never used a Boars hair brush. I borrowed one of those synthetic green brushes and it put mild scratches all over years ago.
Which is best to start with? I usually use Griot microfiber wash pad.
 
Shawn350- The good BHBs (and IMO the only good ones come from Universal) are *VERY* gentle, and won't mar things up the way a synthetic brush will. IMO the best approach is to spray the foamgun's output at the point of BHB-to-paint contact, the output will flush away the dirt that the BHB dislodges.
 
Getting a little lost here. I have an mtm foam canon at the end of the wand.
Foam the area first then use the brush or are you saying to do something simultaneously?
 
Work has been generous with overtime so I am on the fence as to what to buy next from Autopia. I mainly do family and friends vehicles....
I tossed the rotary idea in Jan and went with a Rupes LHR15. Thanks to "The Driver"s post in my 'Do I need a Rotary' thread.

Griots 6" DA *(2nd gen)
Griot's 3" DA (2nd gen)
Flex 3401
Rupes LHR15

I took the backing plate off of the Griots 3' and put it on the 6" for now. To me, the 3" Griot's is only good for wax application.

I have interest in the Rupes mini LHR75 or Rupes 21 Or anything else that I may be missing that anyone suggests.

Does the 21 really correct that much faster than the 15? (but then theres the expense of another 5" backing plate)
Is the mini worth the cost or is a converted 6" Griots good enough?

Thanks for any input,
Shawn

I had the exact setup you had with the exception of a few other polishers. I got rid of the GG3 for the exact reason you stated, it was basically a low power sander or a wax spreader. The mini BLOWS it away and can beat a pc no problem as well. If I were you and were doing a good amount of corrective work then I would say sell the GG6 an put the funds towards a 21. I did this an couldn't be happier. You need to be good with the rupes though, if your comfortable with the system then it does pay off for sure. Plus with the new UHS it may make life even easier for those simple/cliche corrections.

The 21 does correct faster but more so in extreme cases. I work very hard on my technique and pride myself in taking jobs other detailers couldn't or wouldn't do. The case of point of the waterspot removal was just that. The 21 will shine when cutting is most paramount, that said it's very rare you will encounter that type of situation. Can you correct faster on normal corrections? Yes, probably by about 15-20% if you really get the hang of it. Personally, this is just me speaking. For regular corrections I prefer the 15 because even though it is slower it is the smoothest. I truly enjoy polishing with the 15 because it really feels like I'm gliding over the paint. The 21 isn't bad but I don't always need a bazooka for a knife fight.

Ultimately it all comes down to do you want it, do you need it, will it help your productivity and earn you a higher rate and of course are my machines now capable of really bringing the result that I would want in a finish from a really bad finish. I knew with the GG6 there was no way I would be able to achieve the results I wanted to get out of some clients cars. Don't forget to factor in technical stuff. I own a rupes 21 knowing that I can kill any waterspot, just as I own a 75E because I know I can get into the tight technical spots (Ie under spoilers, around mirrors) because thats the caliber of work I want to display.

Lastly an this is just me again, I love the 75E. For standard tight areas like P cars or GTR's it's great but make no mistake about it, if you are dealing with classics and very complex automobiles the rotary is still the best tool for precision work. One of my more recent challenges was a Volvo P1800. I tried to use the mini but the chrome bumpers just kept edging it because of the DA throw. Eventually I had to switch to Pe with a 3inch bp an a steady hand to carve out around the chrome bumpers and rounded headlights. Again I'm just trying to put things in perspective.

Also, always remember with a rotary you can use an extension, where as a DA your stuck with the length you have. (Unless you are running a dynabrade setup). I can't count how many times an extension has saved me from uneven work.

My overall input is this,

One, if you doing regular cars and you want to speed up work go for the Rupes 21 now.

Two, once you get more clients and you get more technical work got a small rotary like new flex kompact or even a flex pe14 if you can. Keep in mind you can now rock a 1,2 or 3 inch bp with an extension that basically means you can get into anywhere (Da throw will always limit you in super tight areas).

Three, once you have enough saved away and you want a creature comfort then get a Rupes Mini 75. It's an amazing tool and very helpful for basic tight work.

Edit: One last thing, I CANNOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH. If you buy any type of rotary down the road, please make sure it has soft start and a minimum rate of 800 or below. If you don't on some cars it's bit scary. Soft start and a low speed will not only save your butt, but allow you to maneuver in very tight spots.
 
Thanks Driver, I'm going to get some experience with the Rupes 15 and take it from there.
I'll look into selling the Griots machines once I lay down a few LSPs with the 15. I preferred using the GG6 over the 3401 for that last year. Having the Rupes that should be able to lay down some wax/sealants without a workout the 3401 gives you.
 
Thanks Driver, I'm going to get some experience with the Rupes 15 and take it from there.
I'll look into selling the Griots machines once I lay down a few LSPs with the 15. I preferred using the GG6 over the 3401 for that last year. Having the Rupes that should be able to lay down some wax/sealants without a workout the 3401 gives you.

3401 is definitely not a waxer, imho a GREAT polisher though
 
Thanks Driver, I'm going to get some experience with the Rupes 15 and take it from there.
I'll look into selling the Griots machines once I lay down a few LSPs with the 15. I preferred using the GG6 over the 3401 for that last year. Having the Rupes that should be able to lay down some wax/sealants without a workout the 3401 gives you.

The other thing I can tell you is this, I don't use LSP's unless it's requested. It's a waste of time and I think 95% of waxes do not have the longevity sealants do (Especially per dollar value and per minute application). I either use CP Reload, Cp Hydro (Almost always in the summer) or menz pl. I do believe that waxes make color pop where as sealants reflect/mirror more. I love waxes but I just think your wasting time and effort, reload or hydro will take a 1/10 of the time if not less.

+ This leaves you with more time to do the misc stuff that really separates your work apart from others. I usually take the same amount of time if not more to do most cars but I'm able to do more with the time I have because of the products and tools.

Like I said, I love waxes I have a ton from M16,BFWD to Sv Saphir... I just save them for my cars :D
 
Getting a little lost here. I have an mtm foam canon at the end of the wand.
Foam the area first then use the brush or are you saying to do something simultaneously?

Simultaneously, foamgun (controlled by a 90 degree shutoff valve as opposed to the pistol grip, easy to operate with your thumb) in one hand and the BHB in the other hand.
If your current wash regimen leaves things marring-free then you can probably just forget the whole idea, though it does make for rather quick washing. Goes through a lot of water/shampoo mix though, in case that's an issue.

Heh heh, eh...you asked "what to buy" so I suggested stuff I use at every single wash :D
 
Simultaneously, foamgun (controlled by a 90 degree shutoff valve as opposed to the pistol grip, easy to operate with your thumb) in one hand and the BHB in the other hand.
If your current wash regimen leaves things marring-free then you can probably just forget the whole idea, though it does make for rather quick washing. Goes through a lot of water/shampoo mix though, in case that's an issue.

Heh heh, eh...you asked "what to buy" so I suggested stuff I use at every single wash :D

Since I don't have a 90 degree shutoff I'll have the 16 year old son do the foaming. I have plenty of soap.
Thanks
 
Well I listed the GG polishers on Craig's List and after a few hours it looks like they may be going sooner than I thought. I may see if Vega will give me a deal if I pickup both the 21 and mini, or the small flex.
 
Simultaneously, foamgun (controlled by a 90 degree shutoff valve as opposed to the pistol grip, easy to operate with your thumb) in one hand and the BHB in the other hand.
If your current wash regimen leaves things marring-free then you can probably just forget the whole idea, though it does make for rather quick washing. Goes through a lot of water/shampoo mix though, in case that's an issue.

Heh heh, eh...you asked "what to buy" so I suggested stuff I use at every single wash :D

I really like the idea of a 90 degree shutoff valve.
Do they sell one specifically for a pressure washer? That trigger really cramps up my hand after extended use.

I own a Craftsman pressure washer from '99.. (2600 PSI/ 2.7GPM / 6.5HP) Turned way down.
It's been leaking oil and my valve cover gasket replacement didnt help. Tired of putting a tarp under it and kills the grass if I dont. I also don't want it leaking on the driveway. I'm either getting the head gasket done or selling it.

Anyone have a suggestion on what to get? Will an electric do?
 
ShawnF350- Nah, AFAIK you gotta stick with the regular handle on the PW.

FWIW, and yeah, my potent gas ones always died, for just detailing you can do OK with a weak/cheap one. The one I got for Christmas cost about $100. Hey, it's better than using a hose and that's plenty good enough for me, blasts the dirt off just fine without damaging anything. IIRC it's an AR100 or something like that...yeah, it's a piece of [crap] by most people's standards :D
 
I really like the idea of a 90 degree shutoff valve.
Do they sell one specifically for a pressure washer? That trigger really cramps up my hand after extended use.

I own a Craftsman pressure washer from '99.. (2600 PSI/ 2.7GPM / 6.5HP) Turned way down.
It's been leaking oil and my valve cover gasket replacement didnt help. Tired of putting a tarp under it and kills the grass if I dont. I also don't want it leaking on the driveway. I'm either getting the head gasket done or selling it.

Anyone have a suggestion on what to get? Will an electric do?

I've had my karcher k5.85m for 2+ years an no issues. They are pricey but its definitely better made then the low cost karchers.
 
Back
Top