What wax and/or sealant is the most resistant to harsh chemicals?

G

Guitarist302008

New member
There's been many tests off products on waxes and which ones last longer, look better, etc. What about chemical resistance though? Most town water these days is treated with a lot of chemicals such as chlorine as well as acid rain that such. Which wax or sealant is most resistant to these things that isn't a super sealant?
 
Up here. Klasse SG. We get a lot of H2SO3 in the are and mixed with the right humidity can be hard on LSPs.
 
Duragloss 105 is very resistant to harsh chemicals.   When I was driving company cars in NH I used DG105 and went through weekly tunnel washes all winter  (as they were free) and the 105 held up for a good 4 months.
 
Guitarist302008- KSG works well if heavily layered (I always found six layers were best for me), but FK1000P does well with only a coat or two.  Just IME though, lots of variables.


 


I recall that the FK never worked all that great for you, and it really makes me wonder why :unsure: The stuff is simply incredible IME; it's pretty much turned my detailing regimen into "just wash it" on the vehicles I use it on.  I don't even need to refresh it after a tough winter, and that's on the Tahoe which gets used every day.  But it never lasted all that long for you, huh?
 
Accumulator said:
Guitarist302008- KSG works well if heavily layered (I always found six layers were best for me), but FK1000P does well with only a coat or two.  Just IME though, lots of variables.


 


I recall that the FK never worked all that great for you, and it really makes me wonder why :unsure: The stuff is simply incredible IME; it's pretty much turned my detailing regimen into "just wash it" on the vehicles I use it on.  I don't even need to refresh it after a tough winter, and that's on the Tahoe which gets used every day.  But it never lasted all that long for you, huh?
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It didn't seem to work as well for me the last time I used it now. I was always a fan of it in the past though. I would layer DG105 several times and then top it with the FK and it seemed to do very well for quite a while.
 
My father is getting packed for his yearly Colorado trip.


He drives our Forestor there and back, including trips to stores


and such,  These cars take such a beating, and are blatantly


filthy from all of the mud and road salt, etc etc.


 


Since it is so dirty on the roads there, he doesn't even wash it.


He figures that the caked on grime protects his paint, and I understand


his position.


 


I did suggest that he needed a protective covering over his paint


just because it is so filthy up there.  The rocks and Gravel do damage


to the lower panels.  I suggested that I coat his SUV in Klasse.


 


This is the same thing that the original poster questioned.


While I don't have anying to offer that prior posters have mentioned,


I can say that my initial response was Klasse also.


 


I'm going to look up this FK1000P. 


We live in an area with lots of sand, so I'm constantly looking for ways to


better protect our paint.
 
Accumulator said:
Guitarist302008- I wonder if more layers of the FK1000P would restore your satisfaction with it.
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I'm going to give it a try... I may buy a new can of it just in case mine is old... though I don't see how it would be. I have 3 layers of DG105, so a few toppers of FK would do well... it's a combo I used many times with my old Evo.
 
Hands down, its Opti-Coat. And honestly, it really isn't that expensive when you consider using it one time on your paint will last years. 
 
<span style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:'helvetica neue', helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">these things that isn't a super sealant?
hu11f.jpg
 
 
Scottwax said:
Hands down, its Opti-Coat. And honestly, it really isn't that expensive when you consider using it one time on your paint will last years. 
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Right now i'm just trying to work with the current waxes/sealants that I already have. OC I know is durable, but as many here know... after a while I wasn't that impressed with the look of it.
 
bunkeroo26- I could argue against that "dirt protects the paint" concept; having moisture-retaining (and abrasive) stuff in constant contact with the paint/trim seams and gaps/etc. is IMO highly detrimental to the car's long-term corrosion resistance.

Klasse Sealant Glaze is *very* good, if (and that's a big "if" IME) you apply at least five or six layers. Huge hassle compared to two or so coats of FK1000P. I used to use KSG on vehicles like my Tahoe, still would if I didn't find the FK1000P superior.

Guitarist302008- I wouldn't expect age to factor in with the FK1000P, mine is years old and my little sample tin is maybe a decade old...it's pretty dried-out, hard, and terrible seeming, but even so it works OK (harder to use than my "regular"/newer tin though). Eh, sometimes things just work out a certain way and we never do figure out why!
 
I offer OC to my clients and have applied many times. I too find the look underwhelming after a while, although the durability and chemical resistance is without equal.


However, I wouldn't class it in the wax sealant category. The best wax sealant I've used is Nitro Seal. Brilliant look, durability, chemical resistance (for a non coating). No sealant comes close ime.
 
Alfisti said:
I offer OC to my clients and have applied many times. I too find the look underwhelming after a while, although the durability and chemical resistance is without equal.


However, I wouldn't class it in the wax sealant category. The best wax sealant I've used is Nitro Seal. Brilliant look, durability, chemical resistance (for a non coating). No sealant comes close ime.
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Yeah, I looked into the nitro seal as well. Rather expensive for a non coating and would rather go with 22PLE if I were to spend that money but again... i'm only trying to work with what I have right now which is DG105, FK1000, Collinite 915, Menz powerlock, opti-seal, and a few others, but those are the ones that seem to have the higher durability rating.
 
<span style="color:#0070c0;"><span style="font-family:'times new roman', serif;">Opti-Coat™ has been tested by the Commonwealth Scientific & Industrial Research Organisation CSIRO) for both chemical and scratch Resistance.


<span style="color:#0070c0;"><span style="font-family:'times new roman', serif;">To download a copy of the report - <u>http://www.optimumcarcare.com.au/XC3166CoatingTesting.pdf</u>
 
Wow! That's awesome Jon. Didn't know it existed. The CSIRO is Australia's premier science and research organisation. This will be a bonus to show clients when considering my paint protection options. Thanks dude!

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The Scratch Resistance is listed at 1100 g.  Do we know the measurement for typical clear coat??



Scratch Resistance


AS 1580 Method 403.1


 


 


 




1100 g


 


 
 
TOGWT said:
Would depend on make / specification of clear coat
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What's an average range??  Only way to tell if 1100g is an improvement is to know at least a base line hardness.
 
I would say there is no real point in layering DG 105 since its a cleaner/polish/sealant. I would just do it once and go to either FK1000p or Collinte 476 and apply your desired layers there. All 3 products mentioned with provide excellent durability. 
 
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