What to use

Z

Zach03

New member
Okay,



Ive been lurking this forum for the past 2 years with a big smile on my face. I finally bought a porter cable 7424 from autogeek with the two country lake orange pads and the pinnacle swirl remover #2 with the final glaze. I have a black 2005 F-250. Ive taken off the pinstripes with a plastic razor and heat gun and that turned out fine. Now onto the difficult part, buffing.



I have light to moderate swirls all over the truck and id like to attempt to remove them without burning up my paint! From reading ive learned its much easier to use a pc than a rotary so I decided to use pc. Any tips on swirl removers to use on black paint? Any tips not to burn up my paint! Help is much appreciated, i will add photos tonight!
 
a

PC is not capable of burning through or hologramming the paint. I like to use Meguiars M80 Speed Glaze for moderate swirl removal. Lately I have been using M205 and SwirlX



lets see those pics.
 
JohnDeereisback said:
a

PC is not capable of burning through or hologramming the paint. I like to use Meguiars M80 Speed Glaze for moderate swirl removal. Lately I have been using M205 and SwirlX



lets see those pics.
Click to expand...



That statement is false.



The PC is very capable of doing BOTH.
 
stiffdogg06 said:
That statement is false.



The PC is very capable of doing BOTH.
Click to expand...



Well, I do have both a G100 and a G110 and was told by a good source that it cannot burn through the paint or instill holograms. I would think the same goes for the Porter Cable since it is pretty much the G100
 
I would have a tough(er) time burning paint with a PC than with a rotary, but it is very possible (and sometimes likely) to cause hologramming with a PC.



You will want softer pads than just the LC orange. Those are very aggressive pads and will leave micromarring in most cases. Id suggest a couple LC white pads to use polish with.



Just use common sense and you will be fine with your PC and choice of pads. If I can use a PC without damaging my paint, so can you.
 
JohnDeereisback said:
Well, I do have both a G100 and a G110 and was told by a good source that it cannot burn through the paint or instill holograms. I would think the same goes for the Porter Cable since it is pretty much the G100
Click to expand...



Get some turtle wax red rubbing compound, a yellow pad, and then report back to us. :xyxthumbs



Depending on the exact interplay of pad, chemicals and paint system you could very easily burn up the paint system or abrade away the clearcoat.
 
Zach03 said:
Okay,



Ive been lurking this forum for the past 2 years with a big smile on my face. I finally bought a porter cable 7424 from autogeek with the two country lake orange pads and the pinnacle swirl remover #2 with the final glaze. I have a black 2005 F-250. Ive taken off the pinstripes with a plastic razor and heat gun and that turned out fine. Now onto the difficult part, buffing.



I have light to moderate swirls all over the truck and id like to attempt to remove them without burning up my paint! From reading ive learned its much easier to use a pc than a rotary so I decided to use pc. Any tips on swirl removers to use on black paint? Any tips not to burn up my paint! Help is much appreciated, i will add photos tonight!
Click to expand...



Multi-step process.



1. Wash & Clay car

2. Mother's Pre-wax cleaner (white pad)

3. Mother's cleaner wax (different white pad)

4. Your favorite topping wax.



Any swirls that you can't remove with pre-wax cleaner and cleaner wax, generally aren't worth removing IMHO. It costs you too much in lost clear coat for what you get.



If you have area's that are particularly scuffed, it may make sense to go over them lightly (by hand) with a bit of polishing compound, the goal being to smooth the edges of the scuffing, not to completely buff it out.
 
GoudyL said:
Get some turtle wax red rubbing compound, a yellow pad, and then report back to us. :xyxthumbs



Depending on the exact interplay of pad, chemicals and paint system you could very easily burn up the paint system or abrade away the clearcoat.
Click to expand...



I didnt take that into account, i meant the mahine when its used correctly.
 
IMHO Ford clear is a medium hardness clear, nearing on the softer end more so than medium. The PC is very capable of removing minor/moderate defects, I suggest you get some new pads also:



This backing plate will allow you to use the 4" pads mentioned below....

4" DA Backing Plate



If you dont already have it, you might want to consider an orange pad or 2

Orange 4" LC Pads



The White pad should be used with a mild polish and followed up with a Blue pad for wax application via PC

White 4" LC Pads



If you find yourself unable make progress with the orange pad above or want to try your hand at the purple foamed wool (PFW) then see below

Purple 4" Foamed Wool



note: the 4" PFW pad paired with an aggressive polish such as Meguiars M95 or M105 is very capable of causing severe damage, so be careful.



If you plan on buying from Detailed Image, George is a great guy, and I suggest picking up some menzerna polishes as well, they just seem to work for me....



16oz Menzerna Intense Polish to begin with via Orange 4" Pad

Menzerna Intense Polish (IP)



16oz Menzerna Super Finish 106FA should follow IP (listed above) via a 4" White Pad

Menzerna Super Finish 106FA



For a wax, you can use Optimum Spray wax, or Opti-seal, or my personal favorite that Detailed Image does not sell is Collinite IW845 or 476S. I also like the wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant 3.0, super slick stuff there. If you head over to autogeek, try there 3oz mini of fusion!



Wolfgang 3.0



Welcome to Autopia! :woot::buffing:
 
JohnDeereisback said:
I didnt take that into account, i meant the machine when its used correctly.
Click to expand...



You are using the machine correctly.



You just smear the red rubbing compound onto the yellow pad (prime the pad with a quick spray or two of QD) making an "X" shape, and then start the machine at a "2" setting and move up to "4".



:buffing: :buffing: :buffing:
 
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