We blow $$$ on nuba.
And with the recent thread on wheel removal, I figured I'd start a thread on what sockets you guys use when you remove wheels.
I have a full fiberglass core socket by a company that went out of business. Complete inner core is fiberglass. True thinwall. Then I have my SO that is true thinwall deep sockets.
The reason I post this is recently, I recently purchased some more *soft sockets*. Not so much the stuff you see with the regular metal socket and nylon shell on the exterior. It was touted as thinwall and indeed the ~interior~ of this socket was soft. It was made of a metal alloy that had some ~give~ to it. However, in order to give it this ~cushion give and house the extra alloy~ in the interior of the socket, the overall socket was quite FAT and not thinwall.
These present major problems when you are dealing with $$ wheels, tight clearance tolerances on the lug holes and when you torque either way to loosen or tighten, the socket will have a tendency to deflect 1 - 2mm towards the SIDES of the lug bore hole.. IMO, while even putting electrical tape on the exterior socket may help to lessen the damage, U WANT the socket to basically not touch even the side of the wheel lug holes and in order for that to happen, you need TRUE thinwall sockets. Some wheels have different tolerances that others but when it is truly ~tight~ this is where I call ~true thinwall~ sockets shine.
It needs to be deep, and true thinwall on the whole barrel. Some of them chamfer out and get fatter on the end...I assume to give it structural strength.
Anyone else take ~sockets~ to the 9th degree.
And with the recent thread on wheel removal, I figured I'd start a thread on what sockets you guys use when you remove wheels.
I have a full fiberglass core socket by a company that went out of business. Complete inner core is fiberglass. True thinwall. Then I have my SO that is true thinwall deep sockets.
The reason I post this is recently, I recently purchased some more *soft sockets*. Not so much the stuff you see with the regular metal socket and nylon shell on the exterior. It was touted as thinwall and indeed the ~interior~ of this socket was soft. It was made of a metal alloy that had some ~give~ to it. However, in order to give it this ~cushion give and house the extra alloy~ in the interior of the socket, the overall socket was quite FAT and not thinwall.
These present major problems when you are dealing with $$ wheels, tight clearance tolerances on the lug holes and when you torque either way to loosen or tighten, the socket will have a tendency to deflect 1 - 2mm towards the SIDES of the lug bore hole.. IMO, while even putting electrical tape on the exterior socket may help to lessen the damage, U WANT the socket to basically not touch even the side of the wheel lug holes and in order for that to happen, you need TRUE thinwall sockets. Some wheels have different tolerances that others but when it is truly ~tight~ this is where I call ~true thinwall~ sockets shine.
It needs to be deep, and true thinwall on the whole barrel. Some of them chamfer out and get fatter on the end...I assume to give it structural strength.
Anyone else take ~sockets~ to the 9th degree.
