What products to use Before AIO

C

cjkbme2w

New member
Hello:



I have a new dark blue Jetta with some dealer-prepared swirl marks. I also have a few small scratches. I would like to know which products I should use before AIO (I have heard that AIO will remove fillers) in order to reduce the swirl marks and help

with the scratches.



I have tried Scratch X, but I couldn't get the scrathes out. Color X seemed to help with the swirl marks, though I don't know if the AIO would then remove it.



I will only be doing this by hand.



Thx
 
I have the same car, If you want something you can get from the store I've heard a lot of good things about 3M products but I can't confirm anything since I've never used em. If you like meguiars I'm pretty sure you can find no. 9 easy enough. I've gone as agressively as hitting the paint with DACP then no. 9, by hand, and it worked pretty good but you can only go so far without a PC or rotary. Good luck with the project man :)



Oh another product I really liked on this paint was #80, I was able to go straight to my LSP after this.



I've been having to do everything by hand too, I only just recently ordered my PC and waiting for it to arrive.
 
A lot of people recommend 1ZPP. I have used it with decent results, but I find it hard to work with. That seems to be against the norm, however, so your results may vary.



I've also had Vanilla Moose and 3M recommended to me. Maybe the new Stuf polish? It's a true polish.
 
I would say a polish without oils or fillers would be best before AIO... you want something that will actually remove swirls, if you hide them then the AIO will just have to remove the fillers. Maybe something like the PB SSR's, 3M MG, Menernza...
 
~One mans opinion / observations~



Klasse All-In-One and ColorX are both chemical (solvent) ‘polishes’ (I use the parenthesis because there are various types of polish, cleaners (like Klass AIO and ColorX0 , a glaze that contains oils and fillers (that cover surface abrasions) and abrasive type polishes that remove the surface scratches.



Like T. Perinne suggests use an abrasive type polish to remove the surface imperfections and then apply a surface protection



~Hope this helps~



Knowledge unshared is experience wasted

justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
 
Yeah, much as I love 1Z polishes (and I sorta like #80 too), when I'm gonna AIO a vehicle I use 3M PI-III stuff. RC (05933), don't worry, it's *very* mild, then MG (05937). These work fine by rotary/PC/hand. No fillers, no problems using AIO after (I use this on the MPV).



IMO #9 is too mild for most applications and #83 is insufficiently user-friendly. VM is *way* too mild for this one too, more like a cleaner-wax. I'd get the PI-III stuff, hands down.
 
BlackSunshine said:




I've also had Vanilla Moose and 3M recommended to me. Maybe the new Stuf polish? It's a true polish.
Click to expand...



Stuf is a very good general use product, great for light swirls, im not sure of what your dealing with but Stuf Polish is slightly more agressive than most general use cleaner/polishes, still a notch below #80, and very user friendly. A good product to have in your arsenal for maintenance needs. As said before, you really need to remove, to fix.
 
I feel your pain, just went through the same ordeal with our new car.

I washed a few times with blue Dawn in an attempt to get everything the dealer put on off the car. Then spent alot of time buffing with Griot's fine machine polish, but this won't help you because you are doing it all by hand, they do make a hand polish though. Then I just went nuts with AIO, four apps I think, then about three with SG the car came out quite nicely considering what it looked like when we took delivery of it.

Good luck.
 
Accumulator said:
....and #83 is insufficiently user-friendly.
Click to expand...



Accumulator do you mean this because of the time it requires to break down fully and the amount of dust it produces?
 
1 Clean WS6 said:
Accumulator do you mean [#83 not user-friendly] because of the time it requires to break down fully and the amount of dust it produces?
Click to expand...



Yeah, mainly the breaking down, and the fact that so many people post about problems they're having with it. While it *is* a very popular product that works great for a lot of people, it's just not one that I prefer and I recommend stuff that I like to use.



I will admit that I didn't give it much of a chance; I tried it, thought "eh, I'll stick with my 3m stuff" a long time ago. Since finding Autopia, I've seen *so* many posts about people having some kind of trouble with it that I'd just rather recommend other products, ones I feel confident will work well (especially for those with limited experience) with minimal frustration.



Anybody who *is* happy with #83 (and #82 and #9 for that matter)- cool, stick with what works for you. Nothing's really *better* if they're working fine for you. It's just that "if" that I'm thinking about.
 
Accumulator said:
Anybody who *is* happy with #83 (and #82 and #9 for that matter)- cool, stick with what works for you. Nothing's really *better* if they're working fine for you. It's just that "if" that I'm thinking about.
Click to expand...



Accumulator,

I have issues with the dusting of #83 and have to use a filtered mask. I thought SSR2 with a cutting pad might be an alterantive to #83 but it didn't even touch the water marking. Much milder then I suspected and was told by Steve it would be about the same as SSR2.5 with a polish pad. I reluctanly had to use #83 and it cleared up the marks. (Just got some SSR2.5 and I hope it doesn't dissapoint like the SSR2 did.)

What's you opinion of some as good or better alternatives to #83 and good pad match-ups? Thanks.
 
Accumulator said:
Anybody who *is* happy with #83 (and #82 and #9 for that matter)- cool, stick with what works for you. Nothing's really *better* if they're working fine for you. It's just that "if" that I'm thinking about.
Click to expand...



Agreed! :xyxthumbs



I use #83 as my goto polish for heavy swirling/marring. It DOES dust like mad and it DOES take a good amount of time to break down fully with a PC (I suspect with a rotary it is much faster). I tried some of the 3M products and came to the same conclusion you did (albeit with opposite products) in that I said "good...but I'll stick with my #83". As with every product discussed on Autopia...everyone's mileage will vary and to be honest with you if it didn't vary I don't think I would come here as often!! :D Diversity is the spice of life.



MartyGrant I have used SSR 2.5 with a Meg's 8006 pad a few times and will say that it is comparable to #83 in its polishing ability. It does, however, break down much faster than #83 but is still just as much a dust hog. I had some micro-marring issues with the SSR 2.5 but I suspect that was my own fault of applying too much pressure to the PC (I'm used to using #83 that requires some pressure in the first few passes to break down correctly).
 
See how 1 Clean WS6 and I can try the same products and come to completely different conclusions :D :cool: That's why it pays to try stuff out and make up your own mind :xyxthumbs and why I sure won't knock anybody for using *whatever* products are working for them.



Marty Grant- I've used a dust mask with some 3M stuff too (PI-II FCRC, even the label warns to use one as the dust is fine silica, hence carcinogenic). The PI-III stuff dusts quite a bit less than the other 3M lines.



I currently use either 1Z Ultra (cutting pad) or 3M PI-III RC (05933, with both cutting then polishing pads) for my "aggressive" products. But if I didn't have a rotary I'd probably get some Hi-Temp Medium Cut and Lite Cut from TOL and use them with a combo of cutting and polishing pads. I forget why I quit using Hi-Temp stuff, but those are *very* good products that don't get enough attention here IMO.
 
1 Clean WS6,

Thanks for the heads up on pressure with SSR2.5! The dusting part? Sigh. Looks like the mask stays on.



Accumulator,

Hi-Temp products are new territory for me and I appreciate the information. Another slope on the learning curve....



:up :up to both.
 
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