What polish/wax?

L

Lil Freek

New member
I've got a 94 Mazda MX6 and I'm going to be doing the $50 paint job that's floating around the internet. As with all older poorly-maintained Mazdas (just acquired this car), the clearcoat's shot and the paint's fading something fierce.



Here's a link to the car:

Kodakgallery.com Join now and receive beautiful photographic prints from your camera



And if you're not familiar with the $50 paint job:

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html]Rickwrench, Alfa GTV, Falcon Squire, Corvair[/url]



I'm not doing this until June, but I'll be placing my big order for 2008 from eshine.ca, and I'd like to get some feedback from anybody that might have some insight.



I have a PC7424 and all the colors of pads... I'm still quite new to detailing on a 'professional' level. I have lots of the Meg's Professional lineup, and some Poorboys products. I'll be stocking up on almost the entire Poorboys lineup and some Manzerna products for this year, but for the MX-6, I'm assuming most of those products would be wasted.



I'm thinking of just using a Polish, Sealant and wax on the car. I obviously don't want a wax with cleaners in it, so I was thinking of doing something like:



Poorboys Professional Polish

Poorboys EX-P Sealant

Collinite Fleetwax #885 (or is #467s better?)



Would that work? It'll take me about 2 weeks to paint and 'cure' the car, so I'll want this paintjob to last as long as humanly possible, but still look good :)



Thanks!
 
Lil Freek said:
.. It'll take me about 2 weeks to paint and 'cure' the car, so I'll want this paintjob to last as long as humanly possible, but still look good :)
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It'll probably take longer than two weeks for the paint to even get hard enough to finish polish. It'll probably take a good three *months* to finish outgassing so you can seal/wax it.



Hope it goes well, remember that with paintwork as well as detailing, the important thing is the *prep*. Honestly, I'd much rather do a car with spray bombs or do the prep and let MAACO/etc. shoot it for cheap than try to do it the Rustoleum way. Remember that most pics on the internet look OK no matter what. The extra money would be well-spent IMO.



I know from first-hand experience that you can do an OK/so-so job painting on the cheap, but IMO there's a limit. For the cost of the PC (which you can live without), you could get a *LOT* closer to doing the paintjob truly right..you could maybe rent everything you'd need for a decent paintjob! Hope this didn't sound like a rant but having BTDT on this stuff, well, there's stuff I'd try and stuff I wouldn't ;)



I'd prep it right, paint it right, and then not bother doing much except waxing it after the curing/outgassing period (during which I'd recommend Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step #2 polish after every wash).



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
 
Accumulator said:
It'll probably take longer than two weeks for the paint to even get hard enough to finish polish. It'll probably take a good three *months* to finish outgassing so you can seal/wax it.



Hope it goes well, remember that with paintwork as well as detailing, the important thing is the *prep*. Honestly, I'd much rather do a car with spray bombs or do the prep and let MAACO/etc. shoot it for cheap than try to do it the Rustoleum way. Remember that most pics on the internet look OK no matter what. The extra money would be well-spent IMO.



I know from first-hand experience that you can do an OK/so-so job painting on the cheap, but IMO there's a limit. For the cost of the PC (which you can live without), you could get a *LOT* closer to doing the paintjob truly right..you could maybe rent everything you'd need for a decent paintjob! Hope this didn't sound like a rant but having BTDT on this stuff, well, there's stuff I'd try and stuff I wouldn't ;)



I'd prep it right, paint it right, and then not bother doing much except waxing it after the curing/outgassing period (during which I'd recommend Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step #2 polish after every wash).



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
Click to expand...



Well said.



:werd:
 
Well I already own a PC and most products... i'd just be buying the fleetwax for the purpose of this POS car.

I can't really justify a $500 paintjob for a $1000 car, though. Worse comes to worse, if the $50 paintjob fails, I can sand it off and retry with a proper job.
 
Hey Lil Freek, you may have not come across my intro thread: http://www.autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/93338-hello-autopia-folks.html



So I did the $100 paintjob using Interlux Brightside Black topside paint which is a Single stage, polyurethane paint with UV protection and Teflon coating. Superior to the rustoleum thats been floating around, as proven on Moparts thread. Biggest thing with the outcome, like anything, is prep. If you're prep aint good, your outcome isnt gonna be good.



So I've had mine done for close to 1 year now, and its been holding up like a champ. Gloss of the boat paint has been superb and has not faded since the day I rolled it on.



Anyway to answer you're question, you gonna need to let it dry for at least 2-3 months baking in the sun. I left mine alone for close to 1 year, so I'm gonna start my cutting/polishing mine really soon with my rotary. I left it alone because I'm lazy :).



There was this guy with going by the name of "Aussie Driver" and he had this Miata in black Interlux paint. He used a random oribital like the PC and used SSR 2.5 and a cutting pad. Finished off with a polishing pad and the result was amazing since SS paint finishes off really well.



So if you want a drastic detail (like I will be doing) you're gonna need to 1.compound, 2.polish, and then 3.protect.
 
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