What oil do you use and why?

.hondajake said:
not api certified....i wonder why.
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Because they do not NEED to be. When they change oil formulation, if you are API approved you need to re-test oil (aka cost $$$) and there ZDDP levels are higher then API allow. For me I could give too <BLANKs> about the API specs and use Amsoil. Worked great for over 16 years on my UOA.
 
CleanGSR said:
I use German Catrol 0w30 because the German Castrol is leaps and bounds ahead of the US stuff and the Mobil 1 5w30 is a thin 30weight and tends to shear back fairly quickly. My car tending to naturally burn oil in VTEC means I definately don't want an oil on the thin side.
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Same here...works very well in my '02 WS6.
 
Depends on which car.



Vette: Mobil 1 Extended performance (15,OOO mile) synthetic 10W-30

Integra GS-R: Same as above

Integra LS : Whatever autozone has on sale....general that is Valvoline 10W-30



I usually choose the heavier weight oil because of oil consumption and how I drive my vehicles.
 
I do not know anyone that has had an oil problem that was not a design problem (bad pcv system) or just lack of changing on a reasonable basis.
 
AMsoil for me here.

It all started when I heard that Amsoil Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid 5W-30

remedied the third gear stickiness of 2006/2008 Honda Civic SI's,even though I don't own an SI model but I thought it would help with my regular DXG Civic and while I was ordering MTF I also decided to order 5 W 20 motor oil and WIX oil filter .

My manual transmission now goes through the gears like butter,the engine is good to go until the maintenance minder tells me so which is a year or 5500 miles.
 
Bunky said:
I do not know anyone that has had an oil problem that was not a design problem (bad pcv system) or just lack of changing on a reasonable basis.
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Wear of bearings, rings, and other moving parts can be related to "oil problems". Shrinking seals and gaskets are other "oil problems". I'd venture to say that a great many engine problems could be remedied if the oil had performed perfectly. Have you ever rebuilt an engine? If you do, you'll see all these things and how the oil is so critical.
 
I use Mobil 1 5-30 Synthetic. My car sometimes sits at the airport for weeks in below freezing temps. I have found that with most oils it takes a while for the engine to start, gets real sluggish. Not with Mobil 1. My last vehicle, 1992 Explorer, I used Pennzoil with Duralube as an additive to get over the sluggishness.

Since Volvo doesn't recommend any additives, I go with Mobil 1 in the 2005 XC-70 and 2007 S80 and haven't had any problems. I have noticed that the XC-70 gets about 4 mpg better mileage with the synthetic over Castrol on those occassions I have neglected to inform the dealer I want the synthetic.
 
Mobil 1 5-50 rally formula on the supra TT a bit expensive but has been good so far.. change oil every year since it is mostly a garage queen.



Valvoline 5-30 Longlife oil for my passat TDI 4 Motion
 
Mobil 1 mostly, tried Royal purple and have been happy with it as well. M1 is just a good solid oil that offers good protection and has good additives for versatile and durable performance. Royal purple has some impressive claims so i figure why not give it a shot.



What i tend to find just as important, if not more important than the oil is the oil filter. I use Mobil 1 or K&N filters and my oil comes out only a slight shade darker than when i put it in 5000 miles ago.
 
I change my oil usually every 5 weeks( I drive 800 a week) or so, Toyota says use Syn. oil every 5000, Its all a bag of hot air, $60 for an oil change, going back to QS or Castrol. $24.00 with a free car wash, I've been changing oil this way for 42 years. You can use Wolf's head if u change it every 3000. Never had an engine problem in 42 years, had a 80 peugot diesel with 330,000 miles and never a problem. PM
 
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