What Makes a Rotary so hard to use.

I started using rotary buffer 2 months ago. When working on my mom's car, I have this specific problem of creating raised bumps (in circular pattern) sometimes. I'm using #83 with W-8006 polishing pad, running at around 900rpm. May I know what causes this problem?
 
zey said:
I started using rotary buffer 2 months ago. When working on my mom's car, I have this specific problem of creating raised bumps (in circular pattern) sometimes. I'm using #83 with W-8006 polishing pad, running at around 900rpm. May I know what causes this problem?
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"raised bumps" :think:



I have no idea what you are describing here, can you be a bit more specific? Thanks.





To all people contemplating the use of a rotary OR those scared silly of even trying one....



I train people on detailing and I just trained a guy today and after showing him how to evaluate paint we went right at it. I showed him how to clay the paint and then we used the Cyclo on a practice hood. It did well and he did well also.



I then showed him what a rotary can do and showed him how to hold it, where not to hold it, RPM's, pad choice, product choice and then set him off on his own.



He buffed out that hood very nice and then we went to a black severely hammered door. He clayed it and then wool padded it with a compound and then removed all the swirls. I showed him what burns look like, and showed him just how difficult it can be to burn paint.



So don't be scared of the rotary, get one and practice with it and you will regret not doing it sooner.



Anthony
 
Anthony, the "raise bumps" which I mentioned look like goose bumps which I can actually feel it with my fingers. It happens more frequent if the panel is hotter.
 
zey said:
Anthony, the "raise bumps" which I mentioned look like goose bumps which I can actually feel it with my fingers. It happens more frequent if the panel is hotter.
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Yikes, that sounds like some kind of reaction of the paint to the heat. :eek: Are they permanent?
 
For those of you who are new to buffing with a rotary, I have several suggestions for you:



1. Relax. Don't go crazy and nothing bad will happen.



2. Watch someone using a rotary so ou get the hang of it. (http://articles.autopia.org/index.php?page=index_v1&c=20)



3. Use a smaller pad. A 6" pad is the best size to learn on. Even a 4" spot pad will help you get comfortable.



4. To prevent splatter, I cut two 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep slots in the face of my pads. I fill the slots with polish. Splatter problem solved! Too bad the pad design is patented and never came to market.



5. Run at slower RPMs (300-500) until you get used to the machine.



6. Feel the paint surface frequently so you know how much heat you are generating.



7. Relax!
 
zey said:
Anthony, the "raise bumps" which I mentioned look like goose bumps which I can actually feel it with my fingers. It happens more frequent if the panel is hotter.
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If they can be removed then it is most likely your product clumping up, perhaps due to a loaded or contaminated pad.



If they can't be removed then you are doing some type of damage to the top coat of paint. Just how long are you buffing an area and also what are your RPM's?



Anthony
 
It is the top layer of the clearcoat which is being raised. I need to repolish that area in order to flatten the paint again. Sometimes may require light wet-sanding.



Anthony, I buff an area of 1ft X 1ft. Buffing time is around 1 minute at 600-900rpm.
 
DavidB- Heh heh, that was a good post, especially the "relax" part. And I never would've thought to slit my rotary pads, gotta try that. Learn something every day...



And it's interesting how good ideas get patented and then shelved, huh? Makes you wonder what somebody has to gain by keeping that pad design off the market.



Anthony Orosco- The Cyclo-to-rotary progression is, IMO, a great way to go. Much better knowledge transfer than PC-to-rotary.
 
DavidB said:
1. Relax. Don't go crazy and nothing bad will happen.
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Couldn't agree with this more. I had a go with my new 9227 today and instead of *****-footing around jumped straight in with SSR2.5 on an orange pad. No holograms, just a nice smooth and really glossy finish. Sure it's going to take a bit of getting used to, but I don't feel any worse with this than I did with my PC when I first got it.



I'd also add that using a rotary is a lot easier if you just use the weight of the machine. I was so used to really leaning into the PC to remove defects, but with a rotary it just isn't necessary.



Ben
 
Here's what the pad looks like after I modify it:



SwirlBuster.jpg
 
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