What Level Of Perfection to Expect

CurtisS

CurtisS

Black G35
I have a brand new 2004 Infintit G35 and am ready to polish and wax it (it is 4 weeks old). I am windering what level of paint perfection to expect. I just polish my deck lid with Griot's Fine hand polish opn one side and Maguires #7 Polish glaze. Don;t see much difference (griots maybe a bit smoother). When I look at my light bulb on the ceiling, there are almost no noticible scatches and the paint looks awesome. If I use my mag light and look very close at the surface I can see many circular scratches. I would like to know how close to glass I should except my surface to look and would like some techniques to inspect the surface to see if it looks like it should. Some Other product suggestions would be nice as well as I am not sold on any one brand. I do like to doo all my polishing/waxing by hand (cause I am nuts, I know).
Thanks
 
Tough call on that one. How well it will look
of course depends on what you use, and
your technique.

I can't speak for Griots, but I can tell that #7 is strictly
a glaze. This means there is not suppossed to be
any polishing capability. As it has a lot of oils in it,
I think what you're seeing is it's hiding ability. Also
note that #7 does not last long either. IMO, it's
really meant for shows, and or when you just want
the car looking really nice for a few days.

To get that smooth glassy look, may take a bit more
equipment and skill. Based on what I came up with,
the most effective way to get that look is with
a wetsanding, followed by compound/ polish.

There are so many good product companies out there,
that my list would not do justice. Just research.

Regardless of what you try, the most important thing
to remember is that at some point in time (hopefully
long from now) swirls and scratches will pop up.
So you need to work towards minimizing their effect.
And that is done by using good washing/ drying and
refinishing techniques.

Really, you're already off to a good start, if you ask me.
Just keep plugging away, find some products you like,
and you'll keep your car looking good.
 
CurtisS said:
If I use my mag light and look very close at the surface I can see many circular scratches. I would like to know how close to glass I should except my surface to look and would like some techniques to inspect the surface to see if it looks like it should. Some Other product suggestions would be nice as well as I am not sold on any one brand. I do like to doo all my polishing/waxing by hand (cause I am nuts, I know).
Thanks
Click to expand...

Brand new car, brand new paint, sounds like the swirls were put in by improper washing techniques or tools.

By hand, I like these products to get rid of swirl marks and minor scratches. These are all very safe to use. I'm listing them from the highest to lowest aggressiveness. Remember, always use the least aggressive product that gets the job done.

- 3M Perfect-It II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound (39002, iirc). I haven't had any swirls or scrathes I expected to be able to get out by hand that this won't get out.

- Meguiar's Scratch-X. Not quite as aggressive as the PI-II. Easier to find in local stores.

- 3M Swirl Mark Remover for dark Cars (39009). Also a version for light cars. Much less aggressive than the previous two, also has "fillers" to hide swirls.

- Klasse AIO. This is not an abrasive product, but a chemical cleaner/sealant. I use it when there are swirls that I know are in my sealant layers, not in my paint/clearcoat. Nice thing is that with AIO you don' have to add a protectant immediately afterwards, sinc eit is a sealant.

Another thing you might want to investigate is the use of a clay bar. This will help remove contaminents from the surface of the clearcoat, and make your paint exceptionally smooth.

blue skies,
Andrew
 
Re: Re: What Level Of Perfection to Expect

hook said:


- 3M Perfect-It II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound (39002, iirc). I haven't had any swirls or scrathes I expected to be able to get out by hand that this won't get out.

- Meguiar's Scratch-X. Not quite as aggressive as the PI-II. Easier to find in local stores.

- 3M Swirl Mark Remover for dark Cars (39009). Also a version for light cars. Much less aggressive than the previous two, also has "fillers" to hide swirls.

- Klasse AIO. This is not an abrasive product, but a chemical cleaner/sealant. I use it when there are swirls that I know are in my sealant layers, not in my paint/clearcoat. Nice thing is that with AIO you don' have to add a protectant immediately afterwards, sinc eit is a sealant.

Another thing you might want to investigate is the use of a clay bar. This will help remove contaminents from the surface of the clearcoat, and make your paint exceptionally smooth.

blue skies,
Andrew
Click to expand...

He he, I'm not trying to rain on your parade but:

I dislike all listed but AIO and clay. PI II FC RC does absolutely nothing for me by hand and by PC all it does it dust up. I suppose it could get micromarring or very light swirls out. Now, by rotary, it's a different story, but IMO there are a lot better products for this application as well.

If you have hard paint Scratch X won't do a thing. Luckily, I think the Japanese paints may respond well to them. Just a heads up on this product.

I was even less satisfied with the 3m SMR than the FC RC, just didn't do anything for *me*. Also keep in mind, its a temporary cover up and the swirls will return in time and with exposure to the elements and washing. This was a product that I literally trashed I was so disappointed.

AIO on the other hand, is surperb for its intended use, a truly brillant paint cleaner-sealant product. It should be a staple in everyone's garage :bigups
 
Thanks for the replys. The car is only 4 weeks old and I am the only one washing it with Griots car wash and fine wash mitt. The color is black and as I said when looking at the reflection of my 300 watt ceiling light, you can hardly see any spider web/scratches at all. When I get up close, say 5 inches away and use my mag light and am looking directly down at the surface, there seem to more scratches/swirl marks etc. What techniques do you guys use to inspect your surface to see what kind of care it needs? it seems I am getting 2 different results when looking at my surface with 2 different angles lighting etc. I am also looking for what is the best level of perfection one can expect from any method. i.e. if you use a 10X magnifiying lense you should see absolutley no scratches, some scratches or many very small swirl marks etc. Thanks
 
I have used ScratchX with very good results after reading a review that groebuck did on it. You also may want to look into a light swirl remover like SSR1. From the sounds of it, you do not have bed swirling or spiderwebbing so far. Make sure you get you a quality wash mitt and some quality microfiber and you should be able to keep it looking good.
 
Curtis,

Like many of us you may wind up inspecting your finish under a variety of lighting conditions to inspect for defects. I presently use bright sunlight, the flourescents in my garage, a good ol' shop trouble light and my 1000 watt halogens. For my black finish the trouble light and the halogens are the most unforgiving. You will see stuff you won't see under other conditions. If I can make the finish appear flawless under these conditionsI'm very happy.
 
Bill do you lookat the finsh from all angles, from a certain distance etc. and what do you mean by looking good (some minor swirls. no defects at all even with a 10X magnifying glass, 2 foot reflections look like glass etc.) Thanks
 
Under the various lighting conditions I mentioned, yep you have to factor in angles as well. He he, inspecting for defects can take even longer than polishing! I need to find a Radio Shack that is not sold out of its mini lighted magnifier. It was demonstrated at a recent detailing seminar I attended. I think that one goes up to 100X! :eek:
 
Under those conditions are you looking for a complete glass like surface or just as long as from 2 feet away or so the reflection appears to be perfect. Is there such a thing as glass like surface even under a magnifying glass?
 
I'm looking for a micromarring free surface. Currently even from a foot away it appears so. Trying to get that and maintain it is often like fighting an uphill battle though :(
 
No photos handy but if you look at your finish under any one of those bright lights and you see mini scratches, can be concentrated together or spread out, that's what I would consider micromarring.
 
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