what is the point of the PC DA if you can do everything it can with a rotary?

toyotaguy said:
case in point, MOST of my details are done with a PCXP. I'll bring out the rotary for some DEEP damage, but the results are still there from the PCXP 90% of the time!



I don't think the XP is that much more powerful then the standard 7424.
 
I have all three types: Metabo rotary, Flex dual action, PC random orbit. Each has its own use.



The rotary is no doubt faster and better at compounding. It's also less fatiguing since it's not vibrating. This is very important to me during compounding, since that always takes the longest. Intermediate polishing is also done with the rotary since it's faster and smoother. Based on Mike Phillips' suggestion, I am now switching over to the Flex for final finishing to ensure no holograms survive. So a normal 3-step polish is rotary-rotary-DA.



For one-step "maintenance" work, I use the Flex usually with prime strong. Not a huge amount of correction, but I can have it cleaned and sealed in less than an hour.



If I apply a sealant/wax with a machine (I don't do this often), I use the PC. Forced rotation does nothing for this step and I like being able to use a 4" pad. I also use the PC for other things like carpet brushing and really hard to get to spots since its smaller than the others.



I'm sure you can do everything with just a PC, but it is likely to take a good bit longer and for sure your hands will be numb at the end.
 
Personally I think anyone who uses a pc for correction is an idiot!!!!!:nana: OK well I use to think that. After 11 years of this crap I'll admit I have been picking up a porter cable a lot more now days. So much that I'm actually considering a g110v2 with some surbuf pads. The biggest thing with all this to me is. Its not how you get there, What it looks like when its done. We can all sit and argue about this and that. When it comes down to it. We should appraise each other and learn from another. No one way is perfect. Use what works for you and stick with it!!
 
Well, anyone doing any real amount of detailing should have variety of machines.

I paint cars and have over 12 spray guns. Do i need 12 guns? Heck no. Sometimes,

you need a bunch of stuff to realize you don't need a bunch of stuff.



A rotary is all i need. But now with the PC, i go over the adjacent panels, that

i haven't painted to match gloss a bit better. Efficient.
 
Kevin Brown said:
BEST OF BOTH WORLD'S:



dynabrade21.jpg




Dynabrade Dual Action Buffing Head. A BAD MAMMA-JAMMA. :nana:



Oh, if only they made on that took 6" pads
 
much like a game of golf . . . . . . it's not the drive it's the arrive. You can have a 300 yrd drive and play your short game and put like crap. You can also have someone who drives a 4 iron 200yrds and has a tight short game and putting and still have a better score.



So all in all as stated before . . . . . what ever works. In the end you can achieve great results any number of ways. It's really what ever feels comfortable to the detailer in the end.



Speaking of which i need me a PC or a G110v2 LoL
 
AeroCleanse said:
Oh, if only they made on that took 6" pads



You can definitely use a 6" pad (I have).



To clarify for the guys that do not know... this is a Dynabrade #61379 / #61384 Dual Action Buffing Head. This attachment is able to develop a motion similar to the type a random orbital or a forced rotation orbital creates. The backing plate is removable and can be replaced with the backing plate of your choice (as long as it uses the standard 5/16"-24 thread). :waxing: Here is an older thread discussing this subject:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/machine-polishing/116649-dynabrade-dual-action-buffing-head.html



The counterweight was designed to compensate for the weight of a large diameter wool pad, so you'll have to play around with the speed settings and various buffing pads that work best for you (in order to realize the best performance and comfort). Judging from my experience, you can use this setup three different ways.



1. As a forced rotation orbital:

Of course, you can lock the unit so it is forced to spin. This setting converts the machine motion to a forced rotation orbital. But- not just any forced rotation... more like a bionic machine that can deliver up to THREE THOUSAND RPM AND A 3/4" STROKE!!! :soscared:



2. As a random orbital used as a rotary:

If you are a dyed in the wool rotary guy and like the way a rotary works, simply bump the speed up on the buffer so that there is ample centripetal force present to create random rotation of the backing plate. Then, buff as you normally would! Want to use a specific approach angle while tilting the pad to better focus buffing power upon a compact area? No problem- go right ahead. The machine feels is a bit different than what you are used to because the pad is not spinning true, but after some time behind the wheel it feels pretty familiar. You should see similar cutting capability (a bit more or less depending upon settings and pressure), and an increase in buffing-cycle length when compounding (primarily because the abrasive particles in the buffing liquid are going to have a a much harder time locking onto the foam buffing pad).



3. As a super-powered random orbital:

If you are looking for the biggest and baddest machine-action out there, look no more because this combo has it. When used as a typical lowly random orbital (:cool:), this unit delivers high lateral force, strong torque, and more than ample pad rotation. Surprisingly, it is rather comfortable to use! Although it is heavier and larger than a typical random orbital, the weight is stabilizing and the size allows for good leveraging.



Overall, the Dynabrade unit is very capable but will take some getting used to because the large stroke size is a bit off-putting or even intimidating at first. If you are the type that keeps an open mind regarding machines and their capabilities, you may want to invest in this jewel of an attachment.
 
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