what is the point of the PC DA if you can do everything it can with a rotary?

D

Dairyman

New member
Everyone seems to like the PC DA so I purchased one of autogeek



Now I am thinking what can the DA do that I can't do with a rotary?



The rotary can cut heavy swirls more easily and quickly



And with ultrafina I can finish down with no holograms and even jewel the paint



so where does the PC fit in?
 
If you spend maybe 30seconds on the forum, you will find hundreds of threads on what the PC can do and whats is mainly used for.



The DA is good for the average person who likes to do light polishes and apply sealants and waxes.
 
IMO, everyone should own a D/A and with new products evolving all the time, it's making it more effective and it has quite a few uses...



p.s. check out bryan's (aka: gmblack3a) threads, he does all his work by PC these days and his work is every bit as good with someone who uses a rotary...
 
search feature is your friend. Since i am here though.



DA has way less risk of burning paint or inducing swirls/holograms into the paint.



It does however take longer then using a Rotary but can still yield the same results.



They are also very good for applying things like waxes and glazes.
 
I have seen and used the DA to do some great correction but on certain paints the DA just wouldn't cut it on some of these Audi's and Infinity paints. I also have seen and used the DA for finishing and IMO the rotary and 85rd finish down better and produce more gloss than any PC and polish. I absolutely love finishing down with 106FA or 85rd on a black or blue pad and taking the gloss to the next level.
 
gmblack3a said:
Maybe the question should be.....



What's the use of a rotary if the PC can do the same? :)
Click to expand...



They're different tools and are capable of doing different procedures better than the other.



It's about using the right tool for the job. A DA polisher can be used to remove sanding marks but a rotary buffer will always do it faster and more completely.



The word completey as I just used it means little to no Tracers left in the finish.



Wet-sanding a panel or an entire car and then removing your sanding marks already takes a long time with a rotary so while it could be done with a DA it will be faster with a rotary. A lot of guys don't own a rotary buffer or know how to use one or are not ready to move up to a rotary so there's other reasons some people don't use a rotary for any type of work.



Some paint can be polished to perfection using only a rotary buffer but this requires the right pads, products skill level and a paint that will polish swirl-free with only a rotary buffer. Paint systems are different and some paint polishes better than other paints system. Using a DA Polisher after a rotary buffer insures a swirl free finish because you change the action of the tool.



I've typed this up for around 10 years now on multiple forums so there's more in-depth articles on this topic available with a little searching. Try Hot Topics for threads on holograms and swirls with rotary buffers as this has been a very common topic.





:)
 
Being a bodyshop painter guy, i never felt the need for a DA polisher. Then i bought

a PCXP and this little tool is a gem. Just getting used to it and it feels a bit clunky

at the moment. But it finishes quite easy. Too easy, in fact. Efficient...



Every bodyshop swirler should own one. :)
 
Flashtime said:
Being a bodyshop painter guy, i never felt the need for a DA polisher. Then i bought

a PCXP and this little tool is a gem. Just getting used to it and it feels a bit clunky

at the moment. But it finishes quite easy. Too easy, in fact. Efficient...



Every bodyshop swirler should own one. :)
Click to expand...



Exactly. Wayyy too many people discount the PC as being weak and useless. I learned on a rotary then started using a PC. I still use both.



The OP's question is like why are there different sized hammers? Why not just use a sledgehammer for everything?
 
gmblack3a said:
Maybe the question should be.....



What's the use of a rotary if the PC can do the same? :)
Click to expand...



BEST OF BOTH WORLD'S:



dynabrade21.jpg




Dynabrade Dual Action Buffing Head. A BAD MAMMA-JAMMA. :nana:
 
hahahaha Kevin. That thing is awesome though it is costly. Never knew you were in Santa Maria. How's the weather up there? My buddy owns a automotive shop up in Lompoc.
 
I have the Dynabrade unit. Also a good tool! But it's quicker to just plug in

the DA. So lazy....



Actually, it was too tedious to attach the Dynbrade head unit, so i learned to

finish with the rotary; out of lazyness!
 
Mike Phillips said:
They're different tools and are capable of doing different procedures better than the other.



It's about using the right tool for the job. A DA polisher can be used to remove sanding marks but a rotary buffer will always do it faster and more completely.



The word completey as I just used it means little to no Tracers left in the finish.



Wet-sanding a panel or an entire car and then removing your sanding marks already takes a long time with a rotary so while it could be done with a DA it will be faster with a rotary. A lot of guys don't own a rotary buffer or know how to use one or are not ready to move up to a rotary so there's other reasons some people don't use a rotary for any type of work.



Some paint can be polished to perfection using only a rotary buffer but this requires the right pads, products skill level and a paint that will polish swirl-free with only a rotary buffer. Paint systems are different and some paint polishes better than other paints system. Using a DA Polisher after a rotary buffer insures a swirl free finish because you change the action of the tool.



I've typed this up for around 10 years now on multiple forums so there's more in-depth articles on this topic available with a little searching. Try Hot Topics for threads on holograms and swirls with rotary buffers as this has been a very common topic.





:)
Click to expand...



Mike, I think if you tried the surbuf pads/M105 with a PC following Kevin's method, you might find that a PC can level paint just as quick as a rotary. When removing 2500 sanding marks. I either use the surbuf pads/PC or using the 4" orange pads/PC/M105 will also suprise you.
 
ok so for removing wet sanding marks when would the PC come in handy



start off with wool and 105



then pc with 105?



or why not pc with 205 wiht foam
 
The fun and cotton candy of using a rotary can quickly turn into a Rocky Horror Picture Show after the speed of the ferris wheel is turned off and you pull the car out into the sun to check the results.........:D





I thru up a little bit in my mouth after the first time I did my old Ford Ranger work truck with my 9227. What looks and feels good in the garage technique wise is often rendered hologram city when inspected with proper lighting....



It takes time, (trial and error) to be able to buff decent with any rotary, PC's are a walk in the park in comparrison....





gmblack got it right.........



With the new products out, what can't a PC do and do it with fewer steps......?
 
From working in a paint shop, I think I'd shoot myself if I had to use a PC to polish. Rotary is so much quicker and with polishes like ultrafina, there's no excuse to have swirls and/or holograms. Also, fresh clear is MUCH easier to polish than OEM because it's still so soft and generally much thicker than OEM clear.



I honestly don't even touch my PC anymore. I end up using my DA sander at work to buzz on sealant, as it's right there, and I just plug it into the air line. It's also lighter and less cumbersome than the PC.



I also have a mini 3" rotary pneumatic polisher for those tight to reach, or small touch up spots.
 
case in point, MOST of my details are done with a PCXP. I'll bring out the rotary for some DEEP damage, but the results are still there from the PCXP 90% of the time!
 
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