What is a good process for very oxidized finishes?

Reflctn Perfctn

Reflctn Perfctn

Reflection Perfection
I am detailing a 1990 BLACK mustang and the finish is VERY oxidized! I am using PwC by hand with a terry applicator and so far 3 pads are blacker then the paint! So I am wondering what steps you pros use for very bad oxidized vehicles!
 
Start with Pro Polish on a wool pad (deepest pile you can find) at maybe 1000 rpm. Follow with claying, then regular polishing steps. Make sure you have a spur or brush to clean out your pads. You're kinda SOL if you're not using a polisher, maybe use a wool compounding pad by hand.
 
Do you do all your work by hand? If so then I would strongly suggest that you pick up a Porter Cable. If you plan on joining the ranks of professional detailers then you need to have the tools of the trade. Oxidation removal is really hard work by hand even with the right products. You need the proper tools to get the job done quickly and professionally.
 
Having done a truck recently I usde SSR 2.5 some areas I did by hand....It does take allof of elbow grease. However it did work for me....I agree with above you will need a PC or rotary to get the results that you are looking for...By hand work in small areas so that you can control the product 12x12 inches.....then followup with P-w-c
 
I find that a good wash followed by claying will restore some of the look, but AIO is the best thing I've found for oxidized paint...I really think you need to take care of the oxidation before looking at other defects. I've also seen overspray that looked an awful lot like oxidation until I started claying.
 
For me, old fashioned cut polish and and a wool pad are the only thing for oxidization. I've heard there are some ways to hide it, but I haven't actually seen anything like that.
So any gritty cut polish should work. I've done it with off-the-shelf products by hand, but I never approach oxidized red-orange-yellow vehicles pre-1995 without some power and some time.
 
I used to have ok luck w/ megs deep crystal paint cleaner before I got a pc. Just let it really sit on the surface and haze for a good 10+ minutes. Use a alcohol/h2o mix or some detailing spray to ease the arm action! :horse: :horse:
 
Don't cut or compound on it yet at all. Don't use a wool cutting pad. Use a wool polishing pad and polish it out with your choice of polish around 1500rpm. You never want to cut into a oxidized car until you tried polishing it first. Most times a polishing can bring it back. Then you can see what other defects you have to deal with.
 
TrueDetailer said:
Don't cut or compound on it yet at all. Don't use a wool cutting pad. Use a wool polishing pad and polish it out with your choice of polish around 1500rpm. You never want to cut into a oxidized car until you tried polishing it first. Most times a polishing can bring it back. Then you can see what other defects you have to deal with.
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I'm sorry, I agree with this in principle. I posted the "cut" post because the way I read Reflctn's original post he had tried polish.

Perhaps I'm off, but I treat oxidization and paint damage like sanding: start with the finest possible "grit". Move heavier if needed.
 
I would meter the paint after you washed it also. It will tell you how much paint it on the car before you start. I like using products with lots of oils and lanolins to condition the paint. I recently did a red GMC work truck with red single stage. I used a GEM orbital, because it only had 2 mils of paint left on it, and I was scared to work it even at 800 rpms.

Washed
Clayed
Malco's Mag II with yellow foam
Meg's Color X with terry bonnet.
 
You guys are keeping in mind that he is working by hand, right? This is good advice, but he isn't using a machine to do this work. I would really suggest that he get one too. This is good advice for future reference for anyone looking to do oxidation removal though.

I've had really good luck removing oxidation with Klasse AIO and a PC. I've got some good examples on what can be done on oxidation with those tools on OCDetails.com. I love oxidized cars simply because the before/after difference is so dramatic.
 
Jngrbrdman said:
You guys are keeping in mind that he is working by hand, right? This is good advice, but he isn't using a machine to do this work. I would really suggest that he get one too. This is good advice for future reference for anyone looking to do oxidation removal though.

I've had really good luck removing oxidation with Klasse AIO and a PC. I've got some good examples on what can be done on oxidation with those tools on OCDetails.com. I love oxidized cars simply because the before/after difference is so dramatic.
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O...I see. Well this is the "Professional Auto Detailing" forum, and I don't know how a professional detailer can be a pro without a machine? I thinkhe might have the wrong forum.......lol
 
There is a detailer over on Autopia who worked by hand for years before he got a PC. I have seen what he can do by hand and I can no longer say that certian things aren't possible to do without a machine. You can still do professional work even if you don't have all the gadgets that make thet job easier. Having paint measuring tools and polishers and fancy lights make you a very well supplied detailer, but to the customer 'professional' is in the results and not necessarily in the methods.
 
BTW...I am using a machine..... Usually before i start using any type of machine i liek to clean up the finish a little by hand first then go to machine of choice.
 
Reflctn Perfctn said:
BTW...I am using a machine..... Usually before i start using any type of machine i liek to clean up the finish a little by hand first then go to machine of choice.
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Cleaning it up by hand first only wastes time. Time is money in this industry. Don't spend an hour trying to clean oxidation off by hand only to reach for the machine to finish the job. Use the tools you have and leave the slow methods at home. I'm surprised you would need to ask what to do on this car if you have a machine that you were going to use anyway? What kind of machine is it? I would imagine the car is done by now anyway, but I'm just curious.
 
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