What I do not like about the 2 bucket method

M

mooredriven

New member
You guys all helped out immensely with the floormat issue and I just thought of another.

I bought the car used and the girl who owned it previously waxed it regularly but did so pretty haphazardly so there's wax in every crevase and on the rubber weatherstripping.

What shall I use to get that stuff looking new again? the little white stripes just aren't making me happy. :D

EDIT:

I did get this already:
bc13rait.gif
 
are trying to remove wax.If you are just looking for something to make it look newer then probably a water based product like 303 protectant.I think I remember an older thread that said you should not use silicone based products on the rubber weatherstripping of newer cars.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Todd [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>are trying to remove wax.If you are just looking for something to make it look newer then probably a water based product like 303 protectant.I think I remember an older thread that said you should not use silicone based products on the rubber weatherstripping of newer cars. [/b]</blockquote>well I'm going to do the entire car with Klasse AIO and SG w/ Blitz 1G in a couple weeks so I'll be stripping it all off anyway but I'd like to (if possible) remove the wax rather than treating the rubber with something.
 
If you use alcohol clean it afterward with some soap and then try to treat it with a water based product.If this is not close enough to new for you someone else will have to give you and idea of a product to dye it with. I have never tried any of these and would not want to give bad info.Good luck
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by YoSteve.Com [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>peanut butter and alcohol, sounds like a party, I'm there !!!! :D [/b]</blockquote>LOL! I was told this before as well!!

Crunchy or smooth? :D
 
Dielectric Silicone Grease!

It is what is recommended by GM for use on my weatherstripping to keep is soft and in like new condition. I have used it and it really does keep it looking and feeling new. A guy I know has a vehicle that's over 10 years old and has done this for years. His stripping looks like the day he bought it. Not to mention it keeps all squeaks and rattles at bay!

Good luck
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Andre' [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Don't use that Back To Black it's junk , it will kill rubber faster than Armor All. [/b]</blockquote>
i would have to disagree with that... back to black is good in terms of making ur black plastic trims looking better again, i have it myself. but the thing is, it only COVERS that haze caused by waxes and does not REMOVE them. peanut butter works because of the peanut oil in it. so rubbing peaunut oil will have the same effects i beleive.

CMA has this covered under their detailing info section. they suggested using Eagle One Black Trim Restorer... im about to try that product next week to see if it really works. i also started a thread with this same exact question awhile ago. just search for threads started by me.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Andre' [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>In the long run i have found that product to dry and crack rubber trim , but that's my OP.:) [/b]</blockquote>It has been my experience that Andre' usually knows what he is talking about (but that's just my opinion) :)
 
As far as getting the wax off, others may have better ideas, but I have been successful using Simple Green and a small fingernail brush.



Now, to restore the weathstripping, I have actually used mineral oil, applied or rubbed in with #### steel wool. Low-tech, low-cost and it seems to rehydrate tired weatherstripping or black rubber bumper parts.
 
When using the two bucket method and a wool mitt, even though I wring out the wool mitt after each rinse, I feel the mitt is less saturated with soap/suds. I just think it is not right...less lubricity, less cleaning, etc.

I suspect the retained water in the mitt from the rinse bucket dilutes the soap picked up in the mitt. Also, the process wringing out the water from the mitt (twisting it) to minimize the water is likely not good for the mitt.

I could add soap to the rinse bucket but that would just increase soap usage.

I am wondering if a sponge works better in a two bucket since you get the water out of the sponge better and quickly re-saturate the sponge with soap.

Do others experience something similar?
 
Try

Try the mf mitts they are nice,last a long time and wring out nicely without damage. They have fingers of mf all over the mitt they are the bomb.

Always have an extra few around,rotate them after they get worn. The two bucket method saves me here when dirt,salt,sand are factors in winter washing...

Its the only way 2 go with the grit guard.
 
I love the two bucket method , its the best concept for washing a car without scratching your finish.
Now, I start with my second bucket filled with clear warm water...but each time I dip my wash mitt in bucket 2 it transfers soap....so when I get to washing the bottom half of the car with a fresh wash mitt....the suds are there in the second bucket......I love it !
Try this one....but I like to keep everything very wet and soapy....you want dirt or debris to be very fluid....thats the whole concept !! :Dancing Dot:

http://www.properautocare.com/grmichwapad.html

I also have one of these....http://www.properautocare.com/gilmour.html
This is the best thing since pockets on a shirt....really, its great to loosen dirt and helps to keep the car very lubricated with suds while you are working around the car....I love this puppy too !..hope this helps. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top