What do you use to completely clean the paint to bare clearcoat after Polishing?

M

mystickid

New member
[Residue Issues]



I just finished polishing my car via Menzerna Powerfinish followed by P085rd. After jeweling the paint it was burnished to a super high gloss, crystal clear, sharp reflection type finish. But everytime I tried to remove the polish residue, I'd get hazing and streaking on the finish ( I used new mf cloths with 91% IPA to remove the residue). Afterwords, It was still deep and glossy but I feel polish wasn't completely removed. Before I went to applying my LSP, I washed the entire car with 3oz of CG's citrus wash in 1.5 gallons of water. It was my hope that this dilution would have completely removed all polish residue and cleaned the paint to the bare clearcoat.



Then I excitedly applied Poxy (1st time) after hearing so much about it and I wasn't incredibly impressed with the final look. Sure, my paint had no swirls and scratches but, I was expecting more gloss and depth. The way the finish looked right after p085rd was really jaw dropping to me.



So I believe that I need something to clean the paint really thoroughly from polish and or wax residue.



1) What do you guys clean your paint with after polishing? I want to remove poxy, and give it another try but thoroughly cleaning the paint to the bare clear before LSP-ing. 2)Should I use KAIO? 3)Would that completely remove all oils/polish residue?
 
Few products that add more gloss on top of 85RD, most actually end up muting it a bit. Its simple physics, purely polished paint looks better than anything. Something like Poxy will give it a nice glow, but from a pure gloss perspective, perfectly polished paint is as good as it gets. Z2 is the only thing I've noticed that pushes it up a notch.
 
P21S Paintwork Cleanse, a gloss-enhancing chemical cleanser that contains fillers (Kaolin or China clay) will remove old wax, light swirls and oxidation. It can be applied by hand or with an orbital polisher. Paint cleaners are designed to remove old wax, oxidation, embedded dirt and light stains from your paint surface. They can remove micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will not remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove some oxidation and mineral deposits.



Chemical solvents paint cleaners are good to use if you want to prep the paint surface prior to applying a wax (without polishing). My preference would be to use an IPA or DuPont’s PrepSol as they don’t leave any (silicone / mineral) oils or etc behind, as these can cause problems when polishing if they are not removed





http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...-preparation-prior-polishing.html#post1489935



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...pedown-scratch-lie-detector-test-process.html
 
Dan said:
Few products that add more gloss on top of 85RD, most actually end up muting it a bit. Its simple physics, purely polished paint looks better than anything. Something like Poxy will give it a nice glow, but from a pure gloss perspective, perfectly polished paint is as good as it gets. Z2 is the only thing I've noticed that pushes it up a notch.
Click to expand...



Thanks Dan and Ya that makes sense, right after 85rd, the finish and gloss was truly something to see.



So I've been doing some research on here and other forums and it seems that i need a good "Pre-wax cleanser" that will remove polish residue and oils leaving the surface completely bare and ready to receive an LSP for optimum bonding.



What's really effective for this? I read GG's Pre wax cleaner, Optimum Power Clean, Klean-Strip Prep ALL and P21S Total Auto Wash are some good choices.
 
I'm not sure its the oils in my case. Last year I did my grey S4, finished out with 85rd and split it down in two. Went nuts with (pure) IPA afterwards, still glossy. I KAIOed one side, muted gloss. One layer of KSG, even worse. Took 3 layers of KSG before it looked OK. Meanwhile the Z2 side stayed as glossy as 85rd. The KSG needed a QD to get it back to 85rd levels.



Did you lose the gloss after you washed with the citrus wash? If you did, maybe the paint wasn't fully polished.
 
Or, the paint is stupid soft [like my friggin repainted hood] and an IPA wipedown inducing super small marring that looks like hazing or streaking?



Regardless, I am using 85rd soon and need to find a way to strip everything with as little touching as possible that completely eliminates the polishing oils.
 
The kaolin dust in poxy is probably micro marring your finish it does it on my car. Hd speed is awsome then when topping it with poxy i noticed micro marring in the sun so i stopped using it. Use hd speed and top with what you want or after polishing with 85rd clean with lime prime lite and top with a nuba wax.
 
Leadfootluke said:
Regardless, I am using 85rd soon and need to find a way to strip everything with as little touching as possible that completely eliminates the polishing oils.
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If you have any Optimum Power Clean, put some in your foam gun, give it a decent amount of dwell time and do a PW rinse.
 
Hmmm... thanks all.



@Dan, Yes, I've never seen more gloss and reflectivity than Z2 but for me, my car lacked depth.



@TOGWT, Makes lots of sense. The Wipedown article is really clearing up my issues. Thanks



@Luke, I do feel that my paint is very soft (Toyota Black)...very very soft, that could be a contributor.



@MDRX8, The Sonax seems really good. SUrprised there weren't more ratings posted on autogeek.



I'm leaning towards a silicone free product so maybe TOL's Prep Wash. Were all the other mentioned above silicone free as well.



looking to get that squeaky clean bare finish.
 
Dan said:
I'm not sure its the oils in my case. Last year I did my grey S4, finished out with 85rd and split it down in two. Went nuts with (pure) IPA afterwards, still glossy. I KAIOed one side, muted gloss. One layer of KSG, even worse. Took 3 layers of KSG before it looked OK. Meanwhile the Z2 side stayed as glossy as 85rd. The KSG needed a QD to get it back to 85rd levels.



Did you lose the gloss after you washed with the citrus wash? If you did, maybe the paint wasn't fully polished.
Click to expand...
Is zaino acrylic?
 
TOGWT said:
Paint cleaners are designed to remove old wax, oxidation, embedded dirt and light stains from your paint surface. They can remove micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will not remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove some oxidation and mineral deposits.



Chemical solvents paint cleaners are good to use if you want to prep the paint surface prior to applying a wax (without polishing). My preference would be to use an IPA or DuPont’s PrepSol as they don’t leave any (silicone / mineral) oils or etc behind, as these can cause problems when polishing if they are not removed





http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...-preparation-prior-polishing.html#post1489935



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...pedown-scratch-lie-detector-test-process.html
Click to expand...



Can Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre-Wax Cleanser Polish be just as effective as a Chemical Solvent?



Have as anyone tried Klean-Strip Prep All? it's supposed to be an inexpensive version of DuPont's Prep-Sol.
 
mystickid said:
Can Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre-Wax Cleanser Polish be just as effective as a Chemical Solvent?



Have as anyone tried Klean-Strip Prep All? it's supposed to be an inexpensive version of DuPont's Prep-Sol.
Click to expand...

Lime prime lite on a white pad cleans well and prepares nicely for lsp.

Absolutely no abrasives at all.
 
TOGWT said:
Paint cleaners are designed to remove old wax, oxidation, embedded dirt and light stains from your paint surface. They can remove micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will not remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove some oxidation and mineral deposits.



Chemical solvents paint cleaners are good to use if you want to prep the paint surface prior to applying a wax (without polishing). My preference would be to use an IPA or DuPont’s PrepSol as they don’t leave any (silicone / mineral) oils or etc behind, as these can cause problems when polishing if they are not removed





http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...-preparation-prior-polishing.html#post1489935



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...pedown-scratch-lie-detector-test-process.html
Click to expand...



is Hi temp's Prep wash (Silicone & Wax Remover) safe to use on paint repeatedly during every polishing session? Over time can it harm the finish?
 
Solvents will suspend waxes and silicones, some better than others, and then reapply them if they are not wiped away with a clean dry MF. Also IPA needs dwell time to work well, like 10 seconds or more for some products.



Alkaline cleaners are a better option for me. They breakup the bond and wash away.
 
my method



Optimum Power Clean

1" OPC in a foam cannon, then fill with water. shake enough to mix.



after spraying the car with the cannon, allow a few minutes to dwell, then rinse.

immediately dry with towels *patting the surface* or blower of your choice.



I've had good luck with this process.

Only problem has been the need to buy more OPC.

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
Thanks Guys.



I was debating getting either CarPro Eraser or Griot's Pre Wax Cleasnser. But In the end I ended up ordering Hi Temps Prep Wash based on TOGWT's advice and write ups. Shipping was a doozie but I got the gallon size. Will update you guys on performance once I use it.



But before I use it, any tips?? WOWO or WO-rinse off etc??
 
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