WHAT DO YOU USE TO CLEAN VINYL, LEATHER AND HARD SURFACES in INTERIORS of VEHICLES?

B

buda

New member
On a more technical vein, may I ask you detailers and car enthusiasts what you use to scrub and clean interior vinyl, leather and hard surfaces?



The tool, not the chemical.



But speaking of chemicals what chemical (s) do you use to clean these surfaces with?



Thank you



Bud Abraham
 
I use a variety of chemicals, usually APC+ 10:1. Tools; depends on the need. A variety of brushes from soft to hard, depending on the material being cleaned. I prefer to let the chemical do the job as much as possible and simply use a soft brush to spread it evenly over the surface without absorbing it like a MF will do. On hard plastics I will sometimes use a scotch-brite pad if a scuff is particularly stubborn. *Warning* Before doing this make sure you are not working with a painted plastic finish! I have had numerous people come to me after trying to clean a scuff or stain from their door or center console. Just as with paint, there are some things you will just have to live with or go full blown repaint/replacement.
 
I rarely use anything more than a boar's hair brush along with a proper cleaning product/chemical. Using the proper chemicals means I don't have to "scrub".



countrysquire said:
I use all capitol letters. Cleans textured surfaces really well...
Click to expand...



LOL!!!
 
I use natural fiber paint brushes cut to different lengths which adjust the stiffness of the brush. I choose a brush for the purpose.



I like APC's for vinyl and plastic. (3D, Meguiars, Einszett) Prefer leather cleaners for leather. (Zaino, Einszett, Swissvax )
 
For dashes and center consoles I will use 1z Cockpit Premium, for doors and plastic trim around the car, ill use APC. Leather gets either leathermasters or leatherique.



Tool wise, its usually a microfiber towel (i know some say you dont need it inside, but what am I supposed to do with these old towels that are no longer suitable for paint? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) and my 2 meguiars slide locks, along with toothbrushes.
 
Combination of Woolite/water at a 20:1 dilution, Optimum Power Clean at 3:1 dilution and Optimum No Rinse at 20:1 dilution, microfiber towels and a variety of soft to medium hardness nylon bristle brushes. A lot of the time, an ONR soaked towel is enough to clean much of an interior.
 
countrysquire said:
I use all capitol letters. Cleans textured surfaces really well...
Click to expand...



Only 115 posts in almost 7 years? You really need to step it up, your last few comments have been freakin' hilarious!:laugh:
 
Ummmm, I used brushes to scrub my interiors....:Fermani:...From toothbrushes to large hand brushes. All different shapes, sizes and stiffness. No 1 brush will do everything.



Cleaners: Optimum Power Clean and HD TOTAL. Out of the dozens of cleaners I've used, nothing comes close to their cleaning power, quickness and safety in a cumulative measure. There's products that *could* be safer per say, but cost and take 3-4 times longer to use. Plus, these that I mentioned above are true "general duty" cleaners not just a dedicated leather cleaner. I can use them on engines, door jambs, carpet, vinyl and leather with just a simple adjustment in concentration. I can't imagine another product that could be better as they are the jack of all trades AND master of all too.



I also don't believe in doing the spray n wipe thing either. Most cleaning applications require aggitation to effective clean a surface. Otherside the underlyling layer of dirt stays deposited.



Oh, I also don't believe in protecting/shining 99% of interiors components either. Waste of time, money and the look is disgusting. And while we're at it, throw a steamer & tornado in the don't need bucket too. :yell:
 
Nth Degree said:
I use a variety of chemicals, usually APC+ 10:1. Tools; depends on the need. A variety of brushes from soft to hard, depending on the material being cleaned. I prefer to let the chemical do the job as much as possible and simply use a soft brush to spread it evenly over the surface without absorbing it like a MF will do. On hard plastics I will sometimes use a scotch-brite pad if a scuff is particularly stubborn. *Warning* Before doing this make sure you are not working with a painted plastic finish! I have had numerous people come to me after trying to clean a scuff or stain from their door or center console. Just as with paint, there are some things you will just have to live with or go full blown repaint/replacement.
Click to expand...



DAVID, ET EL:



THANKS FOR THE REPLIES, ALTHOUGH I HAD HOPED THERE MIGHT BE MORE.



IN ANY CASE, WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO SUGGEST FOR CLEANING INTERIOR HARD SURFACES IS SOMETHING VERY SIMPLE, BUT IMMENSELY EFFECTIVE.



THAT IS, THE INSECT SCRUBBIE PAD (teflon net-covered sponge), NORMALL USED TO REMOVE INSECT RESIDUE FROM THE FRONT ENDS OF VEHICLES IN THE WASH BAY.



TOOK ME A FEW YEARS TRYING TO FIGURE THIS ONE OUT.



IN THE CASE OF LIGHT COLORED VINYL/LEATHER ESPECIALLY WITH GRAIN, TOWELS AND CHEMICALS ARE NOT THAT EFFECTIVE. A BRUSHE IS A PAIN IN THE ARSE, AS THE CHEMICAL RUNS OUT OF THE BRUSH.



WITH THE INSECT SCRUBBIE PAD YOU SPRAY THE CHEMICAL INTO THE SPONGE AND SCRUB, THE TELFON NET IS AGGRESSIVE ENOUGH TO GET OUT THE DEEPEST DIRT AND SOIL BUT NOT HURT THE PROTECTED LEATHER.



WHEN COMPLETED, JUST WIPE DOWN WITH A CLEAN TOWEL AND WHEN THE INTERIOR IS COMPLETED APPLY DRESSING OR CONDITIONER TO THE LEATHER.



TRY THAT LITTLE PAD YOU WILL BE AMAZED AT HOW MUCH TIME IT SAVES AND HOW EFFECTIVE IT IS.



REGARDS

BUD ABRAHAM
 
David Fermani said:
And while we're at it, throw a steamer & tornado in the don't need bucket too. :yell:
Click to expand...



Wouldn't know RE: the Tornador.... but you'd have to pry my steamer from my cold, dead hands.
 
I'm sure it's a great machine to have, but in what application(s) is it a must have where it will outperform a manual process?
 
David Fermani said:
I'm sure it's a great machine to have, but in what application(s) is it a must have where it will outperform a manual process?
Click to expand...



I wasn't aware we were specifically discussing how to outperform a manual process.... the steamer does not necessarily outperform a manual process, however it does save significant amounts of time and in many cases also reduces the use and cost of chemicals.
 
I've just rec'd 3D's LVP cleaner and can't wait to try it out. For years my go to interior stuff has been majestic solutions tidal wave at 10:1, woolite 20:1 and 1z cockpit premium (wife's car!) I use terry cloth towels, and a variety of brushes.



Tip, got a nasty mess in a hard to reach place like screw heads on consoles, door handles? Spray - scrub with brush, put a towel almost covering it and hit it with compressed air. It'l blow the crud into the towel and leave the rest clean.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
I wasn't aware we were specifically discussing how to outperform a manual process.... the steamer does not necessarily outperform a manual process, however it does save significant amounts of time and in many cases also reduces the use and cost of chemicals.
Click to expand...





I have very limited limited experiences with steam so forgive me if I come off as being ignorant to the tool. If I understand you correctly, then steam does outperform the manual process when considering the time and cost aspect. I can understand the cost arguement as you aren't using any chemicals, but not quite clear on time issue. Can you explain how it saves time? Also, on dirty ground in interior panels that usually have a semi-textured finish, will it penetrate into this texture effectively while still retaining its efficiency?
 
David



Steamers are good for many things. We sell three different models, but I am not convinced they are the "complete" answer to interior cleaning and that is why I prefer the "scrubbie pad."



If you are a one man operation, having one steamer could be the answer, but if you have 3 or 4 bays then you really need to have more than one steamer so that guys are not sitting around waiting for the steamer.



The smaller, less expensive steamers are excellent for specific cleaning jobs like: stain removal in carpets/fabric upholstery; cleaning our hard to reach areas like map pockets, ashtrays, inside consoles, etc.



They may be easier than hand scrubbing, but I am not sure they take less time. You still have to move them over the area and you still have to wipe after them, so what have you saved?



You can equip every detailer with a scrubbie pad and they are aggressive enough to clean the dirtiest leather or vinyl the first time with the right chemical. Wipe the area and voila, you have a clean surface.



Personally, I think the scrubbie pad is more efficient and less costly while not necessarily being as "easy" as the vapor steamer.



Just some well intentioned thoughts.



Bud Abraham
 
Years ago I used it to do interiors. Worked really well. However a steamer is so much better.





buda said:
DAVID, ET EL:



THANKS FOR THE REPLIES, ALTHOUGH I HAD HOPED THERE MIGHT BE MORE.



IN ANY CASE, WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO SUGGEST FOR CLEANING INTERIOR HARD SURFACES IS SOMETHING VERY SIMPLE, BUT IMMENSELY EFFECTIVE.



THAT IS, THE INSECT SCRUBBIE PAD (teflon net-covered sponge), NORMALL USED TO REMOVE INSECT RESIDUE FROM THE FRONT ENDS OF VEHICLES IN THE WASH BAY.



TOOK ME A FEW YEARS TRYING TO FIGURE THIS ONE OUT.



IN THE CASE OF LIGHT COLORED VINYL/LEATHER ESPECIALLY WITH GRAIN, TOWELS AND CHEMICALS ARE NOT THAT EFFECTIVE. A BRUSHE IS A PAIN IN THE ARSE, AS THE CHEMICAL RUNS OUT OF THE BRUSH.



WITH THE INSECT SCRUBBIE PAD YOU SPRAY THE CHEMICAL INTO THE SPONGE AND SCRUB, THE TELFON NET IS AGGRESSIVE ENOUGH TO GET OUT THE DEEPEST DIRT AND SOIL BUT NOT HURT THE PROTECTED LEATHER.



WHEN COMPLETED, JUST WIPE DOWN WITH A CLEAN TOWEL AND WHEN THE INTERIOR IS COMPLETED APPLY DRESSING OR CONDITIONER TO THE LEATHER.



TRY THAT LITTLE PAD YOU WILL BE AMAZED AT HOW MUCH TIME IT SAVES AND HOW EFFECTIVE IT IS.



REGARDS

BUD ABRAHAM
Click to expand...
 
tdekany said:
Years ago I used it to do interiors. Worked really well. However a steamer is so much better.
Click to expand...



Glad you like them, we sell a great many to detailers who use them for interiors, but I have not found them as efficient.



Please tell me your exact procedure with a steamer, cleaning headliners; dash; panel, carpets, seats and door panels, if you do use it for all those areas.



Maybe I am not looking at steamers in the correct light, can always learn something new and different.



Regards

Bud Abraham
 
David Fermani said:
I have very limited limited experiences with steam so forgive me if I come off as being ignorant to the tool. If I understand you correctly, then steam does outperform the manual process when considering the time and cost aspect. I can understand the cost arguement as you aren't using any chemicals, but not quite clear on time issue. Can you explain how it saves time? Also, on dirty ground in interior panels that usually have a semi-textured finish, will it penetrate into this texture effectively while still retaining its efficiency?
Click to expand...



The time saving aspect (in my opinion at least) is directly proportionate to how much pressure the steamer being used can generate.



For instance let's say you're trying to clean grime out of a tight area like the vehicle's seat rails. Under normal circumstances you'd have to use a very small brush and contort yourself in order to reach every area -- and of course you'd also have to follow up by jamming a rag in as best as you can to wipe the loosened dirt away. This can be time consuming especially if the tool you have must be repositioned several times in order to reach everything.



With a steamer, on the other hand, if it is strong enough then you can easily blast the dirt out of the tight areas to somewhere easy to reach and wipe with a towel. Reduced effort required = time savings.



That said, it definitely takes some time to find and implement a workflow that takes full advantage of a steamer's potential but once you've done that, you'll never look back.
 
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