V_Eight
I wish I detailed good
They suck. Paid $50/set for a set and they both crapped out within a year. Went to the dealer and got real-deal OEM halogens and they're chugging along great.
What do you think of super halogen bulbs? (Silverstar, etc.)
- Thread starter jhe888
- Start date
imported_Peco
New member
Ones from the John Deere deal are Toshiba bulbs the same brand you get from the dealer. At least the one I got from John Deere. I've had mine for about year and 1/2 now and work great.OTG Signs said:
BostonBull
New member
Peco said:
forgot all about them, good advice!
to my knowledge Toshiba is the only co. that makes HIR.......?
PedroDaGr8
New member
Here ya go Chips. A postive switched 9007 to 9007 harness schematic. Sorry it took so long.
If you ever upgrade your lamps, to a dual beam setup instead of a dual filament, it isn't hard to change. The wires from the relay on the left are the power for your low beams and the wires from the relay on the right (the orange ones) provide power to your high beams. Then ground to the battery and you are good to go.
PedroDaGr8 said:
Alright, here is the schematic for your wiring. You should use atleast 14Gauge or higher wires (12G is ideal or 10G if you plan on running high wattage bulbs).
You will need:
2 30A bosch style relays
1 9005 Male plug
1 9006 Male plug
Then either 2 9005 or 9011 and 2 9006 or 9012 female plugs. They may be the same I am not sure. These will plug into your bulbs (the latter are if you go the HIR route).
Some soldering skills and waterproof heatshrink(better or waterproof connectors (acceptable if you can't solder)
Some loom or electrical tape to wrap the wires.
In the schematic I show all of the bulbs connecting together and grounding to the battery. In reality, each bulb will have its own ground and if you have suitable ground points near by you can use those. On the other hand if you don't run each bulb to the battery.
Also, both the red, orange and blue wires are power. The blue is power from the socket to the signal on of the relay. The red and orange are power either from the battery or out of the relay to the bulbs
THe black and the yellow are grounds. The yellow is the socket ground (this MUST be hooked up to the socket).
When wiring everything, you only need to use the sockets on ONE side of the car. The other side can be left empty.
Lastly if you decide to use HIR bulbs:
How to convert 9011 and 9012 HIR bulbs in to 9005 and 9006 bulbs.
HIR 9011 and 9012 bulbs are exactly identical in all dimensions to 9005 and 9006 bulbs, except for two areas, the second of wh
PedroDaGr8 said:
Here ya go Chips. A postive switched 9007 to 9007 harness schematic. Sorry it took so long.
If you ever upgrade your lamps, to a dual beam setup instead of a dual filament, it isn't hard to change. The wires from the relay on the left are the power for your low beams and the wires from the relay on the right (the orange ones) provide power to your high beams. Then ground to the battery and you are good to go.
Props on the great schematics but I would never recommend one fuse for both right and left headlight relays.
A short circuit will leave a car with no headlights whatsoever and it can happen at any moment.
This would also not meet federal motor vehicle safety standards which can open people up to many legal troubles in the event of an accident caused by the loss of both headlights.
With the addition of another fuse holder and fuse to separately feed the 2 relays, the safety of the occupants in the event of a failure would be greatly increased.