what compound to use?

W

wascallyrabbit

New member
I have 4" orange and green pads for my pc and am need of a compound to remove water spots from my wife's car. the spots seem to be only on the hood and roof. have been using rmg in the past, but didn't have water spots like this. what would be some products to consider?
 
wascallyrabbit- Be realistic about the chances of complete removal; the etching on my wife's A8 didn't come out even with aggressive rotary work, ditto for the etching on the Denali XL and that one was subjected to some *VERY* aggressive rotary work with twisted wool pads and the harshest compounds.



I greatly prefer the 3.5" LC PWF pads over the 4" foam (see my thread about the little wool pads).



The most aggressive stuff I've used by PC is 1Z Intensive (it'll require a follow-up).
 
Accumulator said:
wascallyrabbit- Be realistic about the chances of complete removal; the etching on my wife's A8 didn't come out even with aggressive rotary work, ditto for the etching on the Denali XL and that one was subjected to some *VERY* aggressive rotary work with twisted wool pads and the harshest compounds.



I greatly prefer the 3.5" LC PWF pads over the 4" foam (see my thread about the little wool pads).



The most aggressive stuff I've used by PC is 1Z Intensive (it'll require a follow-up).
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Every time I read an Accumulator post about liking the 3.5" PFW's, I grin a little... :D ... see?
 
Accumulator said:
wascallyrabbit- Be realistic about the chances of complete removal; the etching on my wife's A8 didn't come out even with aggressive rotary work, ditto for the etching on the Denali XL and that one was subjected to some *VERY* aggressive rotary work with twisted wool pads and the harshest compounds.



I greatly prefer the 3.5" LC PWF pads over the 4" foam (see my thread about the little wool pads).



The most aggressive stuff I've used by PC is 1Z Intensive (it'll require a follow-up).
Click to expand...



i don't really expect complete removal of the etching but am interested in a least minimizing it. read the purple wool thread i'll probably buy a couple just haven't decided what compound to use with it yet. maybe 1z. if i use 1z can i follow it with something like rmg or dwg?
 
megs 83, menzerna IP, optimum compound

menzerna power gloss, hi-temp extreme cut, megs 105



use all on the orange pad, then use a lesser compound to remove the haze, then use the green with your RMG (glaze)
 
wascallyrabbit said:
i don't really expect complete removal of the etching but am interested in a least minimizing it. read the purple wool thread i'll probably buy a couple just haven't decided what compound to use with it yet. maybe 1z. if i use 1z can i follow it with something like rmg or dwg?
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I myself would wetsand with 2K (or finer) Meguiar's/Nikken Unigrit, *just a tiny bit*, enough to just take the gloss off the paint. *THEN* use the 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW. As long as you don't overdo it with the paper it'll go fine (voice of experience). The 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW combo is great on 2K-3K sanding scratches and the wetsanding will do more leveling of the etching with *less* overall clearcoat thinning (compared to just going over it more times with compound, which just never does that much for etching IMO).



You will need to follow the 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW with 1Z Intensive on a 4" foam pad (I recommend a polishing pad).



After you finish the work with the Intensive, you need to use a medium-strength abrasive polish, *NOT* something like RMG/DWG. I recommend 1Z Paint Polish. That'll leave things ready-to-wax.



Don't try to skip that final (medium-abrasive) polishing or it simply won't look very good. You need more abrasion, not just glazing.



The above approach really is just *SO* user-friendly...with all the stuff I have in the shop (with which I have more experience), this has instantly become my (new) standard recommendation. It's simply a no-brainer IMO.
 
Accumulator said:
I myself would wetsand with 2K (or finer) Meguiar's/Nikken Unigrit, *just a tiny bit*, enough to just take the gloss off the paint. *THEN* use the 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW. As long as you don't overdo it with the paper it'll go fine (voice of experience). The 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW combo is great on 2K-3K sanding scratches and the wetsanding will do more leveling of the etching with *less* overall clearcoat thinning (compared to just going over it more times with compound, which just never does that much for etching IMO).



You will need to follow the 1Z Intensive/3.5" PFW with 1Z Intensive on a 4" foam pad (I recommend a polishing pad).



After you finish the work with the Intensive, you need to use a medium-strength abrasive polish, *NOT* something like RMG/DWG. I recommend 1Z Paint Polish. That'll leave things ready-to-wax.



Don't try to skip that final (medium-abrasive) polishing or it simply won't look very good. You need more abrasion, not just glazing.



The above approach really is just *SO* user-friendly...with all the stuff I have in the shop (with which I have more experience), this has instantly become my (new) standard recommendation. It's simply a no-brainer IMO.
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Nice post Mr. Accumulator! :)
 
for the 1Z Intensive is it the one from the pro line "Pasta Intensiv" and the Paint Polish the one in the green can "Lack Politur". And would the paint polish be suitable to use a couple times a year for general polishing and light swirl removal before glazing and lsp? or is there something different you would use for paint cleaning?
 
wascallyrabbit said:
for the 1Z Intensive is it the one from the pro line "Pasta Intensiv" and the Paint Polish the one in the green can "Lack Politur". ..
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Yeah, that's right.
And would the paint polish be suitable to use a couple times a year for general polishing and light swirl removal before glazing and lsp? or is there something different you would use for paint cleaning?
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You could probably use the Paint Polish/Lack Politur a few times a year, but I'd rather no myself (note I keep some cars for decades and I'm simply paranoid about thinning clear).



A milder alternative woud be to use the 1Z High Gloss or their Metallic Polish with Wax. The latter is *especially* mild, sorta just a high-end cleaner-wax. You could use the MPwW as often as you like and never have to worry. It's also about the most user-friendly polish every made ;)



Top the Paint Polish and Metallic Polish with Wax with a *wax* as opposed to a sealant; they leave some natural/synthetic blend wax behind and many sealants don't bond to it.
 
was really leaning towards something that could be top with UPGP as I already have this. i like the idea of using a polish/paint cleaner before RMG or DWG then LSP with UPGP. Was orignially thinking of using Zaino but will be using UPGP instead. was thinking thinking of using AIO/Z-AIO or Danase pure polish for polishing/paint cleaning a couple times a year.
 
wascallyrabbit said:
was really leaning towards something that could be top with UPGP as I already have this. i like the idea of using a polish/paint cleaner before RMG or DWG then LSP with UPGP.
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Then I'd finish with the 1Z High Gloss (doesn't leave stuff behind, maybe some polishing oils if you use a lot of product.. no biggie to clean off). The 1Z Intensive followed by 1Z High Gloss is effective and user-friendly.
 
wascallyrabbit said:
was really leaning towards something that could be top with UPGP as I already have this. i like the idea of using a polish/paint cleaner before RMG or DWG then LSP with UPGP. Was orignially thinking of using Zaino but will be using UPGP instead. was thinking thinking of using AIO/Z-AIO or Danase pure polish for polishing/paint cleaning a couple times a year.
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You could use ZAIO or DWG as a base and top with UPGP. You might need a more agressive polish if the swirls are more serious. I don't think UPGP would be most effective over RMG.
 
wannafbody said:
You could use ZAIO or DWG as a base and top with UPGP. You might need a more agressive polish if the swirls are more serious. I don't think UPGP would be most effective over RMG.
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+1. Especially the UPGP over RMG part. UPGP will not adhere correctly to RMG (or any other oil based glaze). Go with wannafbody's suggestion of ZAIO or DWG. Those are both great products.
 
I just got some of Detail King's "Spot-Not Water Spot Remover" and got to try it out. I do not recall seeing anything like it before, but my first thoughts are that it is similar to the "Acid step" in the Decon kits (ABC or FK1). My first impression of it, is that it works fairly well. It will not get rid of etching of course, but it did do a good job of getting rid of the water spots on the glass and a small section of my roof that I tested.



The good that I see about the product is that it is easy to use and does not require the removal of any clearcoat that compounds would require. The downside that I assume would be possible long term damage to painted surfaces from usage due to the product's acidic composition. This like I said is an aussuption, but the acidic composition of this product is what makes it work.
 
That looks like some pretty serious stuff. I've been using some National Sanitary Supply (are they even around anymore?) Cling Bright phosphoric acid based cleaner for water spots and hard water deposits. I bought five gallons of it about ten years ago and I'm down to my last gallon. Anyway, the stuff works wonders on hard water spots. I haven't been brave enough to use it on paint, but it sure works well on glass.
 
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