What coating to try next...

Budget

So glad you coated the work vehicles as it gave us all some great review and some real world expectations

Nicey done...
 
Think that esclate lotion is for master sealant and their waxes not certain though. But Invicible primer polish/spritz is compatible to all PA coating. And I think that it extend the longevity of coatings better. Polish Angel in Sweden sells a kit with Invicible primer and Viking Coat and Cosmic spritz.

If you want the longest longevity I would take a chance on tac system uhs coating. It`s seems almost as a proffessional coating. If the budget allows maybe ad their Top Coat.

Whatever way you go it`s much fun to follow your result and write up.
 
Think that esclate lotion is for master sealant and their waxes not certain though. But Invicible primer polish/spritz is compatible to all PA coating. And I think that it extend the longevity of coatings better. Polish Angel in Sweden sells a kit with Invicible primer and Viking Coat and Cosmic spritz.

If you want the longest longevity I would take a chance on tac system uhs coating. It`s seems almost as a proffessional coating. If the budget allows maybe ad their Top Coat.

Whatever way you go it`s much fun to follow your result and write up.

The TAC I`d definitely wanna do the TopCoat as well but that pushes it up into the $200 range for a single vehicle...little pricey to satisfy my curiosity.

I think on the new vehicles it`ll be Gyeon Syncro (just arrived today), Nanolex Si3D (ordered from UK Saturday) and then probably McKees 37 V2 on the final one. The McKees coating is one I figr`d I`d give a go as it`s relatively economical and pretty common around these forums so I guess we`ll see how it holds up in the worst case usage/maint scenario.

Found some Gyeon Prime at the back of the cabinet this weekend (I think I got on AG open box special last summer) so I have a 2014 E250 van in the back that I`m prepping right now to use it on; 2 coats Prime + 2 coats CanCoat is what I`m thinking.

I`ve got a Kisho sample pack coming from Japan, joping it`s 30ml bottles which will let me do a small Ranger sometime down the road. Kinda strange application (even ignoring the `lost in translation` grammar and syntax) but we`ll see:

Si-701 glass coating agent practice method
1. Drip Si-701 glass coating agent to coating sponge for 7-10 drops, first swear it laterally, then swear it vertically with "#" pattern, recommended at 50cm*50cm for each practice area, and note the usage quantity, since excessive usage per time may lead to non-uniform smearing or wiping obstruction;


2. Postpone for 2-8 minutes after smearing, then use a dry towel to clear surface residue whilst wiping the glass coating film with polishing brightness. Wiping duration recommendation: 30℃=within 3 min, 20℃=within 5 min, 10℃=within 8 min, glass coating hardening rate is directly correlated with temperature and humidity, thus it is recommended to measure local temperature and humidity before determining the wiping duration;


3. Check wiping omission for each part under completion, until the whole vehicle is covered.


Si-901 glass coating agent practice method
1. After completion of whole vehicle Si-701 glass coating practice, postpone for above 1-2 hours to carry out Si-901 practice, enabling enhanced effective given by an initial hardening process of Si-701 coating film;


2. Before smearing glass coating, spray a thin layer of moisture on the glass coating area evenly (upon smearing moisture does not drop being benchmark);


3. Drip Si-901 glass coating agent to glass coating sponge for 4-6 drops, first swear it laterally, then swear it vertically with "#" pattern, recommended at 50cm*50cm for each practice area;


4. Wait 1-6 minutes to wipe after smearing, first use a wet towel to wipe with even strength (no need to wipe repeatedly, just spread the glass coating agent), then immediately use a dry towel to wipe the glass coating layer, until the surface is bright and smooth. Wiping duration recommendation: 30℃=within 2 min, 20℃=within 4 min, 10℃=within 6 min, glass coating hardening rate is directly correlated with temperature and humidity, thus it is recommended to measure local temperature and humidity before determining the wiping duration;


5. Check wiping omission for each part under completion, until the whole vehicle is covered.
 
Well, the Kisho arrived today from Japan. I think about $35 for the kit (to cover shipping)

Odd application notes for the 901; mist panel with water, then apply. They don`t seem to mention any kinda cloth wrapped around applicator either ("Drip coating on sponge...")


They sent 701, 901, SiO2 Wheel Coating, G-01 Window Coating, G-01 Topper/Booster and Si-811.


Guessing 701 as base, followed by 901 are to be used together and the Si-811 is a `stand alone` coating, multi layer possible?


A bit fuzzy on the hierarchy, though; Si-811 = GOOD and 701/901 = BETTER. Or, according to the labels, 811 is DELUXE and 901 is SUPER!

attachment.php


Not a bad deal for I think $36 shipped for the sample pack (30ml for each of the coatings)...unless they suck, then not such a good deal.


Kisho Glass Coating Value Kit Si-701\ Si-811\ Si-901\ X-03 KISHO Glass Coating-KISHO China-Glass coating for cars crystal


Application Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-Vdv_4VXjQ


Application instructions (and video for that matter) are always entertaining for their somewhat murky translations...

Will have to do some Google-ing to see what I can find...
 

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Gonna go with the following for new vehicles, can get em prepped and polished upon arrival, coating application after logo/decal application.

1. Gyeon Syncro
2. Nanolex Si3D
3. Feynlab Ceramic + Topcoat, will clay with Feynlab Prime; Prime seems to be interesting clay lube/prep. Use as clay lube, no wipe-off prior to polishing.

Gonna use McKees 37 Paint Coating V2 on the roofs of all 3, lotta real estate up there to cover. May top the McKees on half of each roof with Kamikaze Overcoat, IGL Premier and Gyeon Cure (50-50 dilution with distilled water) to see which one of those survives the longest as a Topper.
 
Fantastic choices!
Can you use 22ple VS1 FC one half of a roof to test vs Kami Overcoat (over the Mckees)?

Gonna go with the following for new vehicles, can get em prepped and polished upon arrival, coating application after logo/decal application.

1. Gyeon Syncro
2. Nanolex Si3D
3. Feynlab Ceramic + Topcoat, will clay with Feynlab Prime; Prime seems to be interesting clay lube/prep. Use as clay lube, no wipe-off prior to polishing.

Gonna use McKees 37 Paint Coating V2 on the roofs of all 3, lotta real estate up there to cover. May top the McKees on half of each roof with Kamikaze Overcoat, IGL Premier and Gyeon Cure (50-50 dilution with distilled water) to see which one of those survives the longest as a Topper.
 
Fantastic choices!
Can you use 22ple VS1 FC one half of a roof to test vs Kami Overcoat (over the Mckees)?
Can do...want me to do half of one of the McKees coated roofs with Vs1 and the other half with 22ple Finitura? Or would you rather see a roof split between Kami and VS1 for better side by side comparison?

It`s all pretty much the same to me.

I just ordered a 100ml of VS1 from DI; for $20 may be worth revisiting for some of the 22ple cars I have running around.

FWIW so far not blown away by Finitura; it`s slick and glossy but hard to get that very light, last bit of haze residue off during application buff off. Unless it offers some significantly positive attributes over other toppers (although can also be stand alone) it`s not gonna be a keeper for me.

FINITURA

1. Positive: "Finitura will improve scratch resistance on glass coatings by over 500%. If you keep getting watermarks this is an absolute must have product as it will repel them incredibly well!"

2. Negative: "I got an email back from 22 PLE about durability. They said `2-6 months depending on environment and wash routine`."
 
On any single car roof with Mckees Coating, 1/2 Kami Overcoat topper. On the other 1/2 of same roof use 22PLE VS1 FC. Side by side, may the best topper win.Thanks in advance.
 
Optimum Gloss Coat: Somehow this never really interested me but it seems to be a popular choice for some. Is a coating, a sealant...something else? Is it worth giving it a try in a `fire and forget` kinda environment? At $40 for a 10cc tube, not much risk involved but I thought I read that it should be topped/sealed with Optiseal? How does it do in the self cleaning area?

Thanks for any info...
 
Optimum Gloss Coat: Somehow this never really interested me but it seems to be a popular choice for some. Is a coating, a sealant...something else? Is it worth giving it a try in a `fire and forget` kinda environment? At $40 for a 10cc tube, not much risk involved but I thought I read that it should be topped/sealed with Optiseal? How does it do in the self cleaning area?

Thanks for any info...

Its definitely a coating. Not sure why thered be any confusion about it. Of course Optimum recommends topping with OCW or opti seal but you dont have to. Just adds slickness and a sacrificial layer if you do. I top with wax regularly but never those. Good stuff. Still seems to be going strong after 2 years.
 
Optimum Gloss Coat: Somehow this never really interested me but it seems to be a popular choice for some. Is a coating, a sealant...something else? Is it worth giving it a try in a `fire and forget` kinda environment? At $40 for a 10cc tube, not much risk involved but I thought I read that it should be topped/sealed with Optiseal? How does it do in the self cleaning area?

Thanks for any info...

It`s a coating. If you asked a couple months ago I would have sent you a 10cc tube of GC and Opti-Seal but I gave them away to local detailed near me to test out. I was not impressed in the long run by it. I just made a post in this thread here on my experience. If it did not last for me in So Cal I doubt it would survive in your area especially during the winter months unless the car is garaged.

https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...mic-coatings-coming-spring-2.html#post2131328

I will say it`s initial performance is nice. But for me it dropped off around 1 year in a real world experience.

Optimum recommends using Opti-Seal 1 hour after the last coat of Gloss Coat to protect GC during the 7 day curing process to protect it from water spotting and chemical damage. After that not really needed unless one chooses to stay within the "Optimum Synergy" of ONR and using Opti-Seal as a drying aid. Plus the beading and sheeting of Opti-Seal is rather eak and very noticeable. Sometime last year Optimum came out with their coating maintenance line exclusively sold by them. They have a new product called Hyper Seal which is Opti-Seal on steroids and according to Yvan Lacroix it contains SiO2. It was designed to work with their coatings. So when Optimum states they don`t need toppers, well I disagree and now they have come out with one. So that is saying something at least in my personal opinion.

Whether you should try it well I would say save those $40 based on my experience. But if you have the strong curiosity then pick some up. The thing about it is that it is super easy to apply.

I should mention that GC is a hybrid coating of SiO2/SiC (silica carbide).
 
Well, that`s good enough for me. Guess I`ll just let sleeping dogs lie. Dunno why exactly but it just never struck a chord with me but it`s recent mention around here and some questions about it left me wondering if I`d missed something. Certainly doesn`t sound like something that holds up too well of it`s own accord.

Thanks for the info...just saved me about 20hrs.

It`s a coating. If you asked a couple months ago I would have sent you a 10cc tube of GC and Opti-Seal but I gave them away to local detailed near me to test out. I was not impressed in the long run by it. I just made a post in this thread here on my experience. If it did not last for me in So Cal I doubt it would survive in your area especially during the winter months unless the car is garaged.

https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...mic-coatings-coming-spring-2.html#post2131328

I will say it`s initial performance is nice. But for me it dropped off around 1 year in a real world experience.

Optimum recommends using Opti-Seal 1 hour after the last coat of Gloss Coat to protect GC during the 7 day curing process to protect it from water spotting and chemical damage. After that not really needed unless one chooses to stay within the "Optimum Synergy" of ONR and using Opti-Seal as a drying aid. Plus the beading and sheeting of Opti-Seal is rather eak and very noticeable. Sometime last year Optimum came out with their coating maintenance line exclusively sold by them. They have a new product called Hyper Seal which is Opti-Seal on steroids and according to Yvan Lacroix it contains SiO2. It was designed to work with their coatings. So when Optimum states they don`t need toppers, well I disagree and now they have come out with one. So that is saying something at least in my personal opinion.

Whether you should try it well I would say save those $40 based on my experience. But if you have the strong curiosity then pick some up. The thing about it is that it is super easy to apply.

I should mention that GC is a hybrid coating of SiO2/SiC (silica carbide).
 
Years ago I owned a super super soft black Infin. G35 and found myself machine polishing to get out minute scratches every couple of weeks. I had started to see primer showing through where the wife grabbed the side of the car on exiting. So I was told to just purchased Optimum Opticoat. Since it was applied I was always amazed at how outstanding the paint looked after each washing. It always looked like I had just finished detailing the car .
I was just so impressed, I always had to turn back to look at it a couple of times. $60 for a 10cc syringe. They discontinued Opticoat and it was replaced with Gloss Coat which doesn`t have the longevity.
 
Thinking I might go Sparkle+/Top Coat, but that`d be an expensive alternative to Syncro, which was my first thought and has been sitting in my AG shopping cart...

My Gyeon Mohs is at 2y now, and the sheeting isn`t nearly as brisk and the beads are a little flatter...

(Sent via my mobile device...)
 
Have not heard much about Sparkle; hmmmm....

Thinking I might go Sparkle+/Top Coat, but that`d be an expensive alternative to Syncro, which was my first thought and has been sitting in my AG shopping cart...

My Gyeon Mohs is at 2y now, and the sheeting isn`t nearly as brisk and the beads are a little flatter...

(Sent via my mobile device...)
 
Can you buy sparkle in the US? Here it`s a pro detailers coating. I don`t know the truth about the rumor that tac system did alot of manufactures of coatings to other companys. They claims that they have manufactured coatings since 1995. And they did för well known companys too. In 2012 they started their own line of detailing products. They where very early to manufactured water based polishes in 2006. So they are not so new to creating products but new to do it in an own line of products.

I`m very intresting in uhs coating and even alone also. But with their top coating it would be a real contender to the longest longevity in the coatings segment.
 
I haven`t either. But I`ve used Shine and it`s pretty good - easy to apply. Most of their other stuff is decent.

But it`s different and new!

(Sent via my mobile device...)
Ah...didnt realize we were talking about TAC Systems.

UHS looked interesting. Wonder what`s so great about 2 part Climax to warrant $389 price tag?

Looks like one could purchase all coatings from USA website. Moderately pricey.

Sure don`t hear much about them here; have heard more about them on some UK forums, Moonlight is a favorite over there it seems.
 
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