What causes rotary hop and cure to fix it?

A

airjames

New member
What causes this and the best way to cure it?? There was an excellent write up about it on the SCG forums but I havn;t been able to access the forums for about the last several months or so. I do recall they say a cure to fix it, is to apply not so much pressure and if that doesn't work, try claying first. I'm only going by memory here so bear with me. Thanks,,,,,,,AR
 
Level the machine out. I have never had a problem except for when the machine is tilted, or it is being held wrong. Keep it balanced, and you should be fine (in my experience)
 
Makes sense. The more I learn about how to use rotaries, the less I fear them. It seems to me just use common sense, don't run the buffer too fast, keep your buffer moving and don't buff on the edges and you should be fine. This is my understanding. Thanks for clearing that up:up ,,,,,,AR
 
Spur/clean the pad frequently.. (Every panel, at least!)

Lower the speed.

Try more product.

Try less product.

Keep the pad level.

Spur/clean the pad frequently



I switched from big honkin 8"wool and foam pads to Meg's 6.5" foam pads about 6 months ago. I'venot had a pad jump/skip maybe twice since then... I won't go big again!



Strong props/kudos to Mike Phillips for the enlightenment.



Jim
 
I have the same problems and one thing that made a big difference (didn't cure it though) was switching from the LC concave pads to the meguiars flat pads.
 
I also use the 6.5" meguiars pads with the W64 BP, huge difference in control with the rotary.



I think that anyone who is just learning should start out with the smaller pads, it is so much easier. It also allows you to use only one set of pads, saves a lot of $.



The only other thing that I would add is that someimes if you are over extended, the rotary will hop. In other words if your arms are stretched out too far. IMO, the closer to your center of gravity you stay and the more "square" you are with the machine, the less chance of hop.



Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the help:up Correct me if I'm wrong but from reading somewhere that 6.5" pads "grab" less paint and thus, making the rotary easier to control, am I right??



Also this is off topic, I learned that it is important to ensure that your pad is perfectly centered onto the backing plate when using a rotary, whereas if your using a PC, it's not so important. The LC and edge pads ,I believe, have holes in the middle so when using a tool to help you center the pads it just slips right on. Now, when using Meguiars pads, what's a good technique to center these things without spending a whole minute just trying to figure it out?? Thanks again,,,,,,,AR
 
Airborne Ranger said:
Thanks for the help:up Correct me if I'm wrong but from reading somewhere that 6.5" pads "grab" less paint and thus, making the rotary easier to control, am I right??



Also this is off topic, I learned that it is important to ensure that your pad is perfectly centered onto the backing plate when using a rotary, whereas if your using a PC, it's not so important. The LC and edge pads ,I believe, have holes in the middle so when using a tool to help you center the pads it just slips right on. Now, when using Meguiars pads, what's a good technique to center these things without spending a whole minute just trying to figure it out?? Thanks again,,,,,,,AR
Click to expand...



The W64 BP has a piece that sticks out from the center allowing you to place it in the center of the pad. It matches up perfectly with the round cut out of the velcro, thus centering it.
 
I notice that tends to happen when the PC it turne up too high... sometimes when the pad needs a little more product but I typically find turning the speed down cures the hopping problem.
 
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