SpoiledMan
New member
budman3 said:
While I'm *not* going to argue with you I speak from *MY* experience as well as the experience of others. There simply isn't a difference between the two weights and vibration in the machine.
What autopians like to use.
- Thread starter ConglomrationAL
- Start date
While I'm *not* going to argue with you I speak from *MY* experience as well as the experience of others. There simply isn't a difference between the two weights and vibration in the machine.
3Dog
New member
In 12+ years of using PC's I have never changed a counterweight.
ConglomrationAL
New member
So would you say that any size pad can be used with any size counter weight?
Juztang
New member
I have a 5 inch counterweight on mine and use a 5 inch LC backing plate and 6.5 PC pads.
Accumulator
Well-known member
This has veered a bit off topic...but anyhow, it seems experiences vary with regard to all this stuff so you can only put so much stock in the experiences of others. Yeah, that's a disclaimer 
I too find the PC ineffective with larger pads. For serious correction, especially on hard clear, I use 4" pads and they work much better for me. For more gentle work I use 5-6.5" ones. I reserve larger pads for the rotary.
I've used both counterweights with all sizes of pads from 4" to 7.5" (and I even played around with some larger Meg's pads). In *my* experience the larger counterweight results in less vibration, especially when mated with light backing plates; lightest combo = least vibration. Many years of use with the larger counterweight has not damaged either of my PCs. FWIW, using my older one with the smaller counterweight (and a 5" backing plate and the old smaller-than-today's pads), the PC required rebuilding after maybe three years; I have no idea whether the counterweight had anything to do with this or not but I'd guess not. I never used the larger counterweight until I got my second PC, which came with the 6" weight. I noticed less vibration so I equipped my other PC with that weight too. It's been over a decade since then and both PCs are still working fine.
As Spoiledman tried to explain, the PC is designed to work with a backing plate that has *one sheet of sandpaper* stuck to it. A foam pad, let alone one saturated with product, weighs more than a single sheet of sandpaper- if you don't believe me get some and see for yourself. So we're *really* using the PC in a way for which it *was not originally designed*, we're putting more weight and, more importantly, more surface area/friction into the mix. Also, note that when sanding you don't apply pressure, you let the sandpaper do the work, but most people apply some pressure when they polish vehicles with the PC. All these factors combine to make for one mighty outside-the-box situation, relative to the original *intended* application. It's not like PC redesigned their sander when they realized that people were using it to polish cars
I too find the PC ineffective with larger pads. For serious correction, especially on hard clear, I use 4" pads and they work much better for me. For more gentle work I use 5-6.5" ones. I reserve larger pads for the rotary.
I've used both counterweights with all sizes of pads from 4" to 7.5" (and I even played around with some larger Meg's pads). In *my* experience the larger counterweight results in less vibration, especially when mated with light backing plates; lightest combo = least vibration. Many years of use with the larger counterweight has not damaged either of my PCs. FWIW, using my older one with the smaller counterweight (and a 5" backing plate and the old smaller-than-today's pads), the PC required rebuilding after maybe three years; I have no idea whether the counterweight had anything to do with this or not but I'd guess not. I never used the larger counterweight until I got my second PC, which came with the 6" weight. I noticed less vibration so I equipped my other PC with that weight too. It's been over a decade since then and both PCs are still working fine.
As Spoiledman tried to explain, the PC is designed to work with a backing plate that has *one sheet of sandpaper* stuck to it. A foam pad, let alone one saturated with product, weighs more than a single sheet of sandpaper- if you don't believe me get some and see for yourself. So we're *really* using the PC in a way for which it *was not originally designed*, we're putting more weight and, more importantly, more surface area/friction into the mix. Also, note that when sanding you don't apply pressure, you let the sandpaper do the work, but most people apply some pressure when they polish vehicles with the PC. All these factors combine to make for one mighty outside-the-box situation, relative to the original *intended* application. It's not like PC redesigned their sander when they realized that people were using it to polish cars
SVR
Dream Machines
Prima Swirl, Menz 91L, Blackfire SRC 3000 (Menz), Sonus SFX 1 and 2
Prima kicks menzerna's butt IMO
Got out with an edge green what I needed a yellow to do with menz,the finish was way better with the prima and you can use any grade of foam pad with swirl to finish as well if you wanted too
Severe swirls - sfx 1 and orange sonus DAS on a rotary will annihilate them and scratches too.
Prima kicks menzerna's butt IMO
Got out with an edge green what I needed a yellow to do with menz,the finish was way better with the prima and you can use any grade of foam pad with swirl to finish as well if you wanted too
Severe swirls - sfx 1 and orange sonus DAS on a rotary will annihilate them and scratches too.
ConglomrationAL
New member
is Prima Swirl really as good as I read it to be?
For the PC, a 60/30 mix of Menzerna IP and OP seems to be a decent all purpose polish. Finishes down fairly well for a one step, and you can always refine it mroe with FPII/OP and a polishing pad if need be.
For the rotary, I've been getting amazing results with a 50/50 mix of HTEC/OP. Cuts amazingly for swirl removal and some heavier marring while finishing down almost perfect. Follow up with OP, FPII/OP or ZPC if need be.
For the rotary, I've been getting amazing results with a 50/50 mix of HTEC/OP. Cuts amazingly for swirl removal and some heavier marring while finishing down almost perfect. Follow up with OP, FPII/OP or ZPC if need be.
SVR
Dream Machines
Sure opinions may vary but swirl truly gives me a fresh off the gun finish. I don't know why anyone would doubt that it would not be as good as others.
Why would anyone think it's not up to the job. So it's not made by menzerna or optimum, big deal.
Why would anyone think it's not up to the job. So it's not made by menzerna or optimum, big deal.
3Dog
New member
SVR said:
Have you tried Prima Cut?...If so, what is you opinon of it?
ConglomrationAL
New member
I wanna know that also. Prima Cut and Swirl, if anyone has used them.
SVR
Dream Machines
Hey no doubting that. Nothing wrong with optimum at all. I've got the old formula or both HC and OP
Have not tried cut or finish yet, just swirl
Have not tried cut or finish yet, just swirl
imported_Malachi
New member
PakShak said:Factory Default:
PC 7424 w/ 5" counterweight
PC 7336 w/ 6" counterweight
With Aloha,
Ranney
My understanding is that that is the only difference between the two machines. Is that right?