wetsanding, wool pads, and new paint....

B

blackntan

New member
So my dad just painted his 76 MGB. It came out amazing! However, there are a bunch of spots where dust settled while the paint was drying, and one or two slight runs...



How should I tackle this? I'm fairly comfortable with wetsanding, but i've only done spot sanding before, never over an entire vehicle....



Would a wool pad with PI-fine cut be effective as a wetsanding substitute?? Should this combo be anywhere near my process for this car?? How would I follow this up? PI-fine cut with a compounding pad?



He put 4 coats of clear on the car, and it shows, so i'm not too worried about the paint getting too thin... In fact, my ultimate goal is to remove the entire top layer of paint, and get down to a nice smooth, dust free finish...



I really don't know what to do with this one... Here's what I'm thinkin. Please feel free to slap me if i'm way off base...



1xwetsand really bad spots

1xwool pad with fine cut, entire car

2xcompound pad with fine cut, entire car

2xpolishing pad with 1Z metallic paint polish

2x S100 by hand



Thoughts on that?



Is there a better way to remove a layer of paint than with the wool pad and fine cut? Will these steps remove all traces of the wool pad and wetsand hazes??



Anything i'm forgetting?



thanks!!
 
Oh, and just for a reference point... Here's what the paint looks like now, untouched....



mgbpaint1.jpg
 
ITs been a while for me, but I'd think depending on grit of the paper you use you may need to start off with something more aggresive than light cut for your first pass. Woll pads arent the devil, they definitely have a place in jobs like this.
 
So you think my process is the right direction to go? I'm not afraid of the wool pad, I've used it with some success before...



What would you start off with instead of fine cut? Also, what would get rid of wool pad haze? I had a devil of a time with it before, although the results made it worth it....
 
Are you using a pc or rotary? That will make a huge difference in how quickly you will get the sanding marks out.



If you're using pc, sand with 1500 then 3000. The 3000 will be easier to buff out. Then hit it with the wool pad and medium cut compound. Then take a look and figure out where to go from there. Probably cutting pad and fine cut then machine polish.



Wetsanding is really no big deal, especially if you have 4 coats of clear. Just make sure you use a block to avoid finger marks. Use a squeegee and check your work every dozen strokes or so. When you see the dust and orange peel gone, stop and move to the finer grit. If you only wetsand a few spots it will show when you're done. Go for it and you'll have a show quality finish.



Jason
 
I'm using a PC for everything.... No rotary for me yet...



I am also comfortable with wetsanding. and I will wetsand the parts that need it..



Just not sure if it's worth it to wetsand the whole car, or if I can achieve my goals with the wool pad...



Any other insight?



thanks
 
I dunno... That's kinda what i'm asking...



OP and even more specifically (for this situation) - can you remove dust that settled onto wet paint with a wool pad...
 
I don't think you'll get very far removing orange peel with anything but sandpaper. Certainly not with a pc. I don't think you'll get very far with the dust nits either.



But there's one way to find out... give it a try. Also, if you DO have ANY orange peel in the paint, if you just wetsand certain spots and not the whole car, you're likely to be disappointed because you'll have super fabulous perfect spots spoiling the rest of the car.



Jason
 
A rotary with the right woll cutting pad and medium cut compound can remove OP, maybe not completely but it does remove paint. But to really remove the OP id vote for wetsanding, then polish. To be honest thought Ive never used a wool pad on the pC, only rotary.
 
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