ScubaStevo
New member
I was wondering how old normal 50 year old paint would be? Safe to wetsand? It would be on a 56 Pontiac.
Wetsanding 50 year old paint
- Thread starter ScubaStevo
- Start date
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
Be careful with that, wait for some advice...that will be nothing like a modern finish, plus if it's been on the car this long...you don't want to be the one that takes it off!
imported_steveo3002
New member
yeah you need some specialist advise on this one...be a terrible shame if you was the one to ruin it after it lasted so many years
DrSauekraut
CIXELSYD
Do you have paint thickness gauge? In my opinion, be cautious of anything less than 3.75(MILS) or 95 Microns.
Tell us more about the project :grinno:
Tell us more about the project :grinno:
Don
Darth Camaro 12/27/15
ScubaStevo said:
50 years
I'm sorry, I had to do it. Seriously, I would contact a resto expert.
psl car wash
New member
shouldnt be to hard, single stage enamel, you will be removing PAINT not clear so u will see paint "coming off" right away!, use a block, take your time, and use your eyes!
jimmybuffit
That'll buff right out!
Whoa, there! Let us slow down!-v14es
Wetsanding is our most aggressive technique.
Me? I subscribe to the 'least aggressive approach'. So it follows that we'd like to know the actual condition of the paint, and what you've done to date. Pictures are always helpful.
Much can be accomplished with proper buffing techniques... tell us more.
Jim
Wetsanding is our most aggressive technique.
Me? I subscribe to the 'least aggressive approach'. So it follows that we'd like to know the actual condition of the paint, and what you've done to date. Pictures are always helpful.
Much can be accomplished with proper buffing techniques... tell us more.
Jim
Accumulator
Well-known member
I wouldn't wetsand it under any circumstances. That's just taking off too much irreplaceable original paint. It's only original once. Better imperfect paint than a repaint. Causing a '56 to need a repaint would, IMO, utterly ruin it. No way for me to exaggerate my opinion about this.
The paint will be soft, *much* softer than b/c (unless *maybe* if it's white). I wouldn't go heavier than a mild compound with a soft wool pad for the most aggresssive work. And I wouldn't even do that unless I was pretty comfortable with the rotary in question.
No matter what it needs, I'd use some other, more gentle method as opposed to wetsanding.
The paint will be soft, *much* softer than b/c (unless *maybe* if it's white). I wouldn't go heavier than a mild compound with a soft wool pad for the most aggresssive work. And I wouldn't even do that unless I was pretty comfortable with the rotary in question.
No matter what it needs, I'd use some other, more gentle method as opposed to wetsanding.
94BlkStang
New member
ScubaStevo said:
First off, what's the problem with the paint before deciding on a method to help restore it? Like others have mentioned, wetsanding is very aggressive, but can work awesome if performed properly. It can also ruin a paint job if not. Better left to a professional if you're not that familiar with wetsanding and compounding. Maybe just a good polish can bring back the lustre. Do you have any pictures detailing the problems with the paint?
imported_sydster
New member
Guys, let's not make this complicated- all he has to do is open the hood, trunk and/or door and test whatever he is about to try in a hidden area.
ScubaStevo
New member
I've wetsanded many a car, but I'm just not used to the lacquer paint.
Its a 56 Pontiac (not quite 50 years).
The car in question.
Its a 56 Pontiac (not quite 50 years).
The car in question.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
That needs a wetsand?
tensors22288
New member
damn that things in great condition. why is there a need for wetsanding? i cant see the paint up close but the white looks pretty good from here
Accumulator
Well-known member
OMG that's sweet. Just polish it. You'll find the lacquer cuts very easily and you won't need to wetsand it. Really 
Use some milder abrasives than you think you need, this is one of those "start mild" jobs. After all the abrading is done, I'd use a glaze/"pure polish" like Meg's #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal #2 and let it soak in really well (this kind of paint really *does* need "moisturized", it's not BS the way it is when people talk about that with b/c paint). Then top with something that'll be compatible with the glaze.
Sometimes you can even "pretreat" paint like that before abrading by applying #7 sorta heavy and letting it sit overnight without buffing it off. Mike Phillips suggested that on an old, oxidized Jag I had and it worked better than I'd expected.
Man-oh-man it would be a pleasure to do that car....
Use some milder abrasives than you think you need, this is one of those "start mild" jobs. After all the abrading is done, I'd use a glaze/"pure polish" like Meg's #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal #2 and let it soak in really well (this kind of paint really *does* need "moisturized", it's not BS the way it is when people talk about that with b/c paint). Then top with something that'll be compatible with the glaze.
Sometimes you can even "pretreat" paint like that before abrading by applying #7 sorta heavy and letting it sit overnight without buffing it off. Mike Phillips suggested that on an old, oxidized Jag I had and it worked better than I'd expected.
Man-oh-man it would be a pleasure to do that car....