Wetsanded 993 Turbo gets some love...

Great detail work, the final result was great.



I am confused on your "wet sanding" theory though.

When I wet sand a car with 1500, like you asumed it was, I get NO reflections at all...Just dull marks. This car had a stable reflection in the befores, just bad swirling. When I top 1500 with 3000 the shine comes back, but it is still VERY dull, and looks nothing like your befores.

I would look to me like the body shop would have stopped after a hard cut compound like a 3M Perfect it II or maybe III, grit cuting compound. The stuff feels like liquid sandpaper.



Also, you can't get 'wet sanding' marks under clear. The clear fills in an minor marks like sanding marks.

Think of this. When a painter blends a panel for color match, the whole panel is sanded down with 800 dry or sometimes even 600. They then spray about a foot of the panel with color, then ONLY clear the rest. What happend to the 800 grit marks? They were filled in with the clear making it look perfect again.

Or again...If you are looking for a show car perfect paint job, you base, color (2-3 coats), then you wet sand the color, re-color (2-3 coats), wet sand again, then clear (5-7 coats). There is no buffing paint, because the clear covers all that.

Simply said, you can't get wet sanding marks under clear...It's in the body work, which means that it's completely under the paint, and is NOT a result of a bad painter, but a bad body tech. Our shop wouldn't let that fly...it would be repainted same-day.



Anyway great final product.
 
Stratous said:
Great detail work, the final result was great.



I am confused on your "wet sanding" theory though.

When I wet sand a car with 1500, like you asumed it was, I get NO reflections at all...Just dull marks. This car had a stable reflection in the befores, just bad swirling. When I top 1500 with 3000 the shine comes back, but it is still VERY dull, and looks nothing like your befores.

I would look to me like the body shop would have stopped after a hard cut compound like a 3M Perfect it II or maybe III, grit cuting compound. The stuff feels like liquid sandpaper.



Also, you can't get 'wet sanding' marks under clear. The clear fills in an minor marks like sanding marks.

Think of this. When a painter blends a panel for color match, the whole panel is sanded down with 800 dry or sometimes even 600. They then spray about a foot of the panel with color, then ONLY clear the rest. What happend to the 800 grit marks? They were filled in with the clear making it look perfect again.

Or again...If you are looking for a show car perfect paint job, you base, color (2-3 coats), then you wet sand the color, re-color (2-3 coats), wet sand again, then clear (5-7 coats). There is no buffing paint, because the clear covers all that.

Simply said, you can't get wet sanding marks under clear...It's in the body work, which means that it's completely under the paint, and is NOT a result of a bad painter, but a bad body tech. Our shop wouldn't let that fly...it would be repainted same-day.



Anyway great final product.
Click to expand...



Alright, good info. So maybe you can help me understand what is up with this paint. I will describe it to you in detail. Before I go on; the entire car was sanded with some grit. I do a lot of sanding, and it was clear to me that someone, probably the dealer or bodyshop, sanded the car down with the intention of buffing it, but never buffed it...but that's another story. The real question is the scratches under the clear... (or what I presume to be scratches under the clear).



So on this car there are two areas, about 1 foot by 1 foot on each fender where the paint is of a slightly different color (darker), when I compounded those areas I noticed the swirls/scratches around the areas disappeared, but the scratches in those areas didn't move. I did not see silver paint on my pad. So what I have are two 1x1 areas that have significant scratches that *will not* buff out at all, not even budge, like...zero movement. When I deal with bad scratches you *always* get some movement from heavy compounding, even if it is only a little. These are immune to compounding - as if they are under the clear. Here is a pic:



8.jpg




That's the best I could get. That is the ENTIRE panel after HTEC/wool and SIP/orange - as you can see one area is perfect, the other is still swirled badly, the exact same as before I started. I went so far as to resand with 2500 and 3000 grit and got absolutely no movement on those swirls. So it is either a) the hardest paint the world has ever seen, b) scratches under the clear or c) something I have never seen. I assume it is b or c, I would love to hear your input on it as it is really irritating to me. :)



So my question is, if scratches can not exist below clear, what the heck is this?



Cliff notes: Scratches above sanded with 2500, 3000, then compounded with htec/wool and sip/orange, zero movement. please help understand if not scratches under clear?
 
Wow Kevin all those pics (including the ones in your subsequent post) have some of the wettest silver, if not THE wettest, I've seen in this part of the forum!
 
Picus said:
Alright, good info. So maybe you can help me understand what is up with this paint. I will describe it to you in detail. Before I go on; the entire car was sanded with some grit. I do a lot of sanding, and it was clear to me that someone, probably the dealer or bodyshop, sanded the car down with the intention of buffing it, but never buffed it...but that's another story. The real question is the scratches under the clear... (or what I presume to be scratches under the clear).



So on this car there are two areas, about 1 foot by 1 foot on each fender where the paint is of a slightly different color (darker), when I compounded those areas I noticed the swirls/scratches around the areas disappeared, but the scratches in those areas didn't move. I did not see silver paint on my pad. So what I have are two 1x1 areas that have significant scratches that *will not* buff out at all, not even budge, like...zero movement. When I deal with bad scratches you *always* get some movement from heavy compounding, even if it is only a little. These are immune to compounding - as if they are under the clear. Here is a pic:



http://gtaindetail.com/pics/turbo090607/8.jpg



That's the best I could get. That is the ENTIRE panel after HTEC/wool and SIP/orange - as you can see one area is perfect, the other is still swirled badly, the exact same as before I started. I went so far as to resand with 2500 and 3000 grit and got absolutely no movement on those swirls. So it is either a) the hardest paint the world has ever seen, b) scratches under the clear or c) something I have never seen. I assume it is b or c, I would love to hear your input on it as it is really irritating to me. :)



So my question is, if scratches can not exist below clear, what the heck is this?



Cliff notes: Scratches above sanded with 2500, 3000, then compounded with htec/wool and sip/orange, zero movement. please help understand if not scratches under clear?
Click to expand...







Without seeing the car in person, there are only two things I can think of:



1. The base / paint shrank undernieth the clear. The paint needs to flash dry before clearing. If you don't wait long enough it will either 'solvent pop', which looks like you poked the paint with a needle a thousand times or it will shrink. Solvent pop is completely curable. Shrinking, is in the paint, and requires repainting.



2. Die-Back. Die-back is when the original sanding marks are permanently set in the clear when it was sanded too soon after being sprayed. You should wait atleast 10 hours after painting to wet-sand clear and buff. If you want to paint and deliver a car in one day, you don't have that kind of time.

Die-Back can be cured, but takes a long time and ussualy doesn't leave much clear left when finished.





Any way you look at it the body shop screwed up. Our shop offers a life time coverage on anything paint related. I don't know if that shop does, but it wouldn't hurt to ask.



Compliments again on the great reflections.
 
Ah cool, thanks for the info. If I had to guess then, I would say this is die back. The car was purchased like this from California, so no chance of a warranty on paint I would guess. I think the owner will likely have that panel resprayed in the spring. Thanks. :)
 
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