Wet vs Dry Claying

[SVR]

Now that I have done plenty of both, claying with the car soaked in shampoo and the traditional way of after washing with QD as lubricant, I can't decide on which one I should do permanently



Wet way

Pro's - do it in half the time

- no lube required as the shampoo does that for you

Cons - clay magic bar is harder to knead as it's soaking wet

- surface is harder(for me at least) to monitor

- much bigger chance of dropping the bar

Dry way



Pro's - clay bar sticks to your hand, you can't drop it

- can monitor the bar and surface

- very easy re kneading

Con's - time consuming (30 - 60 minutes)

- need alot of lube



When I do it the traditional way, I spray the surface with QD and the bar as well (to help prevent it sticking if the lube dries up or you accidentally go outside the lubed area



My favourite tool for kneading the clay bar (getting it perfectly square) is the good old rolling pin.

Once the bar has been turned over and over and the whole bar is brown (covered in fallout) , I fold it into a thick square and cut it in half twice which gives me access to the layer underneath the one I used originally

This can be done multiple times and I can get 20 cars done with one bar.



Just a pity that you can't attach it to an orbital buffer and machine clay the car.

 

[foxtrapper]

Both ways are wet, so I don't know what you're calling dry. Seems like maybe you're saying your hand is dry, but mine is always wet at this point.



My biggest gripe with claying is sticking and smudging on dry paint. Anything that will help it glide over the paint is wonderful to me. If a wiping of shampoo keeps it wet, that sounds great. I've tried soaps & detergents in the past. They worked, but the clay would change consistency, usually becoming gritty and crumbly. It didn't prevent it from working, just changed it.



I don't like using a qd when claying because they lay down a product, which is not what I want at this stage. I just want clean and smoth, not coated and smooth.



A trick I discovered is that claying in the cold works much better than claying when warm. The incidents of sticking and smudging when cold are far less than when warmed up.

 

[RobD]

Originally posted by SVR

Just a pity that you can't attach it to an orbital buffer and machine clay the car.

Don't know if they still offer it, but there's a Griots PC buffing pad that has a cut out in the center to insert a clay bar. Seems like it's little aggressive for claying. Firstly, you can't feel what's going on and secondly, if a large particle gets picked up by the clay, you'll have a lot of "Dual Action" style scratches.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Yes, Griots still sells that, and there are other places as well...which I can't remember right at the moment...

 

[Accumulator]

I don't like using a qd when claying because they lay down a product, which is not what I want at this stage. I just want clean and smoth, not coated and smooth.

Meg's #34/Final Inspection doesn't seem to leave anything behind, but rather works about the same as dedicated clay lube, only with easier wipe off/cleanup. I forget who first suggested it to me, but it works quite well.

 

[raymond_ho2002]

i like doing it your "dry way" with QEW. The calculated gallon cost of qew solution is about 25 cents, which is cheap enough so that I am not stingy about spraying. It also wipes off without leaving any residue.

 

[gearhead]

i like doing it your "dry way" with QEW. The calculated gallon cost of qew solution is about 25 cents, which is cheap enough so that I am not stingy about spraying. It also wipes off without leaving any residue.

Now this is a good idea! I was running low on lube, I'll try this next time! :up

 

[STBear]

Just got a spray bottle for using QEW as pre soak on salty areas of the truck. I'll have to try it next time I clay.

 

[EBPcivicsi]

QEW has wax in it and will definitely leave "something" behind.



I prefer to do it post wash, before drying with a fresh bucket of suds.

 

[RobD]

Lately, I've just been using the hose right after a wash. A constant soft flow of water (just turn down the pressure a bit) works well and it's fast, though you sometimes get a little wet. A shut off valve definitely helps when you want to stop and knead the clay. Using the QD is nice, but it does seem like an awful waste of product when plain or soapy water does the same job. If the car was already clean and dry, I'd probably use QD.

 

[capt512]

http://www.pnw4runners.com/tando/wax/detail1.htm This site shows and tells about using the clay bar with the PC.

 

[MaThGr82]

Lately, I've just been using the hose right after a wash. A constant soft flow of water (just turn down the pressure a bit) works well and it's fast, though you sometimes get a little wet. A shut off valve definitely helps when you want to stop and knead the clay. Using the QD is nice, but it does seem like an awful waste of product when plain or soapy water does the same job. If the car was already clean and dry, I'd probably use QD.

+1

 

[Jesstzn]

Anyone used a QD made of 2 oz AIO / 8oz dist water for a lube for the clay bar.



I read here that it made a great QD and was slick.



JTOL



D.

 

[Accumulator]

Anyone used a QD made of 2 oz AIO / 8oz dist water for a lube for the clay bar..

I'd say you couldn't do my "gentle on the LSP" claying with such a mix, it'd compromise your LSP too much.

 

[audipower]

I like the clay lube because it doesn't leave hard to clean up clay marks. It cleans up so much nicer and doesn't hurt leaving the clay lube on if your going to AIO or a paint cleaner. I had a much better experience with Clay Magic Lube on the car and going to Sonus Paint Cleaner.

I don't like Griots clay for PC's at all. It made swirls and just smeared dirt allover my car 10000 rpm!