Wet sanding questions

i don't know if i'de even go back there for a re-paint on the bed. If i bring it ot a shop im doing the whole bed.

There is a break, the gap between the bed and tailgate. How much will i need to sand down till I have to primer? I think im capable of doing this. I had already started looking for stuff incase i did decide to try and repaint it myself. Its only a small section of the bed. Here is a pic, the section thats bad is in the top part of the circle.
fullydetailedwholecrop.jpg
 
97FLAIRSIDE said:
i don't know if i'de even go back there for a re-paint on the bed. If i bring it ot a shop im doing the whole bed.

There is a break, the gap between the bed and tailgate. How much will i need to sand down till I have to primer? I think im capable of doing this. I had already started looking for stuff incase i did decide to try and repaint it myself. Its only a small section of the bed. Here is a pic, the section thats bad is in the top part of the circle.
fullydetailedwholecrop.jpg
Click to expand...
If the paint is good, just thin, all you need to do is scuff the area so the new primer will have something to grip. Some 600 grit wet sanding should be all you will need. Use some sort of grease and wax remover before you do any painting. Todays primers don't usually require sanding before applying the color coat. Check with the paint supplier for the paint you buy.
The section you are going to work on looks like it will be ideal for having the break point that I was talking about.
Aerosol spray can nozzles vary and you probably should practice on something to see just what spray pattern you get. Be sure the first coat is dry before doing a second. Also, be sure the color coat is dry before applying the clear coat.
Be sure to invert the can and clear the spray nozzle after each use. Shake the can before you start, then shake it some more. Give it another shake during the painting step.
Take your time and remember that even if you screw it up, when it's dry you can sand it off and start over if necessary.
Don't be too disappointed if the paint isn't a perfect match. The new paint hasn't had 10 years of weathering to fade it. Chances are, no one but you will ever notice it.

Charles
 
i have a can from paintscratch.com and its not even close, it doesn't even look like blue. I'll have to shake it like crazy some more to see if it just needed more mixing.
 
97FLAIRSIDE said:
i have a can from paintscratch.com and its not even close, it doesn't even look like blue. I'll have to shake it like crazy some more to see if it just needed more mixing.
Click to expand...
I really don't know about any of the different brands, but I do know that they all require a lot of shaking to get the pigment and the metallic mixed.
If you think about it, it's likely that the spray can has been setting in an upright position for months, maybe even years. A lot of the goody has settled to the bottom of the can.
If time allows, I think I would shake the can till I thought it was mixed, store it overnight upside down, then shake the heck out of it again the next day.
The primer won't separate as badly as the color coat, but it still needs lots of shaking to get it mixed.

Charles
 
After taking another look at the panel you need to paint, I will check with my friends at the body shop and see if they think you could just scuff the paint you have and go right to a color coat, then the clear coat. Primer might not even be necessary.

Charles
 
This morning, I talked to my friend at the body shop.
First thing he said was, "It isn't quite as easy as it looks".
He suggests using primer anywhere the factory primer is showing after you have sanded the area to be painted. You need to overlap the color coat and then sand the primer so you don't have an edge. The color and clearcoat will not help with any blemishes and will probably make them show up even more.

With a big grin, he said to be sure to leep track of the products you use so when you end up taking it to a painter, the guy will know what he is working with.
That didn't sound real encouraging to me.
Good luck.

Charles
 
I would suggest not attempting the sanding and painting unless you have a someone with experience helping you. It's not as easy as it looks, even if you have a video and someone with experience with you;)
 
grrr. why did i take the sandpaper out last night!

although the parts i did test the ssr2.5 on came out pretty dam good. I had a nasty plant scuff/scratch on the bed. Used a mf towel and very little 2.5 on it by hand. Did a good job of getting rid of it and man did the flake in the paint pop. I really dont think i'll need to wetsand the truck at all. I really want to detail my truck right this minute. I wish i had a large garage.
 
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