Here are the three estimates I got today. I few observations:
All three shops said they would pull trim, outside rear view mirrors, door handles, etc. They all offered that on their own---I didn’t ask them to do it.
They all offer a lifetime guarantee on their work.
They all said they would lower the bumper and remove taillights so they could blend.
They all didn’t believe it was single stage paint, but looked it up and then agreed.
I’ll categorize estimates this way:
Most expensive = A $1,096
Middle = B $1,039
Second Middle = C $888
Verbal = D $1,000
Least = E $778
Issues I see:
Shop A is giving me a slight discount on the labor. They also are going to clear down the entire rocker panel on the drivers side instead of terminating at the picture I have attached --- picture one, the VERTICAL joint. I like that better because it’s less likely to peel later on down the road, or am I wrong / cazy? They’ll go all the way up to the seam in the panel of the pic I have attached – second pic. They will blend the passengers door into the rear passengers quarter. The drivers side rear quarter didn’t need to be blended, they said. Shop D said the same. Shops B, C, & E said they would just paint and clear the damaged panels – no need to blend.
B, C & E are also factoring in taking care of a very small dent that was already in the drivers rear panel that has to be repaired – not even the size of a nickle. I *think* shop A is factoring that, too – I need to check to be certain.
All the shops, except shop A, told me they would not repaint single stage. They all said it would be base coat and then clear. They all assured me that it would match just fine given the fact the paint is in such great shape ---6,000 miles on the car. Shop A said they could paint single stage, but it would be more $ and they couldn’t guarantee a perfect match. Not sure how true that is, or if they just don’t want to do that kind of work? Any thoughts, or am I making more out of it then I should?
So, my initial thoughts? Shop B is out. The shop was “tired,� not interested in my or the car --- they looked at me as a “number.� No thanks. Shop A I liked because the guy talked to me, appreciated the car and really listened to my concerns with the potential for peeling clear coat, etc. They were also the ones who said they would clear down the entire rocker panel and terminate at the seam in picture two. Shop B, C, D and E said they’d terminate at the joint in picture one. Shop D is probably out because he talked to me like I was an idiot and was wrong about the paint. Also, he wasn’t real interested in the work – I could tell.
Shop A is more of a production facility that I am told does nice work. I work in the insurance business and my local claims adjusters say they do nice work. That said, my company is quoting their insurance policy now. I met the owner a few weeks ago and when I asked to see him today, they wouldn’t let me unless I had an appointment. I won’t let work intermingle with personal here one bit. However, I was taken back that even after I announced myself as being here before on business, they wouldn’t let me talk to him. Big deal? Not the end of the world, but I’d like the owner to know I thought enough of him to give him my personal business. I couldn’t care less if he moves his policy to my company --- that’s not why I was there. Anyway….I didn’t like that aspect, but I did like the service writer who I am sure is trained to make the customer feel “special.â€�
Shop C & E were local shops. Not as fancy, but in the case of shop C, he does have a down draft booth and said he’d bake the paint. I liked this guy�had a 30min. conversation with him. Said he’s been doing it for 36 years – works on a few local Vipers, etc. Said those guys are so particular that he personally goes over them before releasing the car. Also mentioned that he's very particular himself. The one thing I don’t like is that he wants to terminate the clear coat at the joint in picture one. I bet I could ask him to go to the joint and pay a bit more? Shop E is very similar to what I just described about shop C -- local shop. I didn’t have as good of a conversation with him, but it wasn’t bad either.
I don’t want to say money is no object here. It is; however, basically $800 at one spot and $1,100 at another isn’t enough spread for me really to care about. I'd prefer that I get the best job possible.
I like that all have a lifetime warranty. I like the idea of terminating the clear coat at the spot in picture two. I realize that with a warranty, I need not worry about it --- if it chips / peels, I can bring it back. That said, I’d rather not deal / worry about it. So, am I making a bigger deal than I need to about where they terminate the clear coat on the driver rear fender -- picture one or two?
I’ve rambled a bit here and I thank you all for letting me do that. I’d appreciate any input / suggestions you might have. Have I missed anything that I should be asking? Oh, most say 3-5 days to do the work. I don't care about that as it's not a daily driver.
Thanks!
Shumax
Pics of the joints where the clear coat would terminate on the driver side. Picture one is where most want to terminate -- the VERTICAL joint. Picture two is the joint at the front fender and where I think it would be better to break the clear coat.
Here are the estimates --note that shop D & E's estimates are not attached:
