David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Compond with a finishing foam probably won't be the greatest choice after compound/wool. I'd much rather use a heavyweight polish with a cutting foam instead.
Wet and dry sanding-Whats the benefits of each one?
- Thread starter pampos
- Start date
Not so keen on cutting foams, rather, compounding foams. However,
i was able to finish easily from 2000 > M105 w/wool > IP w/LC white > FP w/LC black.
3 steps on fresh paint (black base & SPI MS clear). I thought the white pad
was even a bit too aggressive, especially for this clear (soft). Will try IP w/LC black
next go. Should work fine...
i was able to finish easily from 2000 > M105 w/wool > IP w/LC white > FP w/LC black.
3 steps on fresh paint (black base & SPI MS clear). I thought the white pad
was even a bit too aggressive, especially for this clear (soft). Will try IP w/LC black
next go. Should work fine...
JohnKleven
New member
I'm not familiar with a UDM. I use a dynabrade D.A. Any pneumatic D.A. will be fine.
John
John
JohnKleven
New member
OK, I saw the UDM. That is not a D.A. It looks just like a porter cable. That thing doesn't have any power to do a job like this. It's going to be an expensive venture to get all the stuff, and then do the job yourself. It sounds like you might be better off hiring a professional for about 1500-2000 to do it for you.
John
John
Thanks guys.....All of you.....I will try to do it by my self because i have to learn too.... : ).I already bought the Meg's backing pad for the sand paper and i have also Meg's 1000, 3M 1200, 1500 and 2000 wet and dry sandpapers...The Meguiar's dealer in Cyprus told my that i will not need anything else than 1000 unigrit sand paper and a wool pad/ compound combo....He said that he already tried it with great results..Should i believe him?? Isn't it better to finish with a 2000 or even 3000 sand paper and them step to the compounding step??Also what do you think about the 3M sand papers??
imported_Dave Holmes
New member
Pampos,
Personally, I would definitely follow 1000 grit with finer grades (at a minimum 2000 grit). Like mentioned, try a small test spot to see if something like 1500 will work for you, or if you need to step down to 1200 or 1000. Once you find your starting grade, try 2000 grit to see if it will effectively remove the lower grades sanding marks, and then your polish to remove the 2000 grit marks.
When I'm wetsanding, the polishing steps are the most time consuming. So if you can get the sanding marks as fine as possible (I finish my sanding with 2000 grit, and would go to 3000 grit if I could source it locally), you'll spend less time polishing out sanding marks. (Note to self, get 3000 grit next time I do an online order).
A test spot is important. Without knowing how soft and thick your paint is, it is nearly impossible for someone to tell you an exact order of what grits to use. In your instance, I'd test a small spot with 1500, step up to 2000, then a quick polishing (several successively gentle steps) of the spot to check the end results. If they're acceptable to you, use that as your plan. If the OP isn't removed to your liking (and you have plenty of paint/clear), do another test spot with 1200 or 1000, then 2000 and polishing. You can even experiment finishing sanding with 3000 grit to see if it cuts down your polishing time significantly.
Experiment. And enjoy the process that gives you the results you desire.
Dave
Personally, I would definitely follow 1000 grit with finer grades (at a minimum 2000 grit). Like mentioned, try a small test spot to see if something like 1500 will work for you, or if you need to step down to 1200 or 1000. Once you find your starting grade, try 2000 grit to see if it will effectively remove the lower grades sanding marks, and then your polish to remove the 2000 grit marks.
When I'm wetsanding, the polishing steps are the most time consuming. So if you can get the sanding marks as fine as possible (I finish my sanding with 2000 grit, and would go to 3000 grit if I could source it locally), you'll spend less time polishing out sanding marks. (Note to self, get 3000 grit next time I do an online order).
A test spot is important. Without knowing how soft and thick your paint is, it is nearly impossible for someone to tell you an exact order of what grits to use. In your instance, I'd test a small spot with 1500, step up to 2000, then a quick polishing (several successively gentle steps) of the spot to check the end results. If they're acceptable to you, use that as your plan. If the OP isn't removed to your liking (and you have plenty of paint/clear), do another test spot with 1200 or 1000, then 2000 and polishing. You can even experiment finishing sanding with 3000 grit to see if it cuts down your polishing time significantly.
Experiment. And enjoy the process that gives you the results you desire.
Dave
Both wet and dry sanding have their own pros and cons. None is better than the other.
DRY
I prefer dry sanding to remove OP. Very fast in checking my progress.
But my 3M paper (on 3M interface pad) clogs very quickly and it's a pain to always change papers. Anyway, I am doing only spot-sanding...not the whole car. So, no probs.
WET
If you're not familiar, you could cut through.
As you sand, it's not very obvious how much you're cutting since its glossy wet...until you squeegee it!
DRY
I prefer dry sanding to remove OP. Very fast in checking my progress.
But my 3M paper (on 3M interface pad) clogs very quickly and it's a pain to always change papers. Anyway, I am doing only spot-sanding...not the whole car. So, no probs.
WET
If you're not familiar, you could cut through.
As you sand, it's not very obvious how much you're cutting since its glossy wet...until you squeegee it!
Meguiars Unigrit (Nikkens) is topshelf. Not as well known and hard to come by,
are Eagle Abrasives. Just as good if not better.
.::Eagle Abrasives, Inc - Welcome::.
Found one Ebay seller:
eBay Store - AutoPainterSupply: Eagle Abrasives: Eagle Buflex - Buflex 6 Disc Pads 2 pkg
And if you're into body work, they make the best course grits (MaxCut).
Regarding sandpaper grades which many overlook (manufacturers, sellers, and pro's too)
are the grading scales. The prefix "P" has relevance (i.e. P1000 isn't the same as
1000). 3M now makes the distinction on there labeling and procedures. Others need to
follow (Menzerna's application guide should be updated).
Check out the list towards the bottom of the page and what the approximate
equivalents are between the US CAMI and European FEPA (P).
Sandpaper - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
are Eagle Abrasives. Just as good if not better.
.::Eagle Abrasives, Inc - Welcome::.
Found one Ebay seller:
eBay Store - AutoPainterSupply: Eagle Abrasives: Eagle Buflex - Buflex 6 Disc Pads 2 pkg
And if you're into body work, they make the best course grits (MaxCut).
Regarding sandpaper grades which many overlook (manufacturers, sellers, and pro's too)
are the grading scales. The prefix "P" has relevance (i.e. P1000 isn't the same as
1000). 3M now makes the distinction on there labeling and procedures. Others need to
follow (Menzerna's application guide should be updated).
Check out the list towards the bottom of the page and what the approximate
equivalents are between the US CAMI and European FEPA (P).
Sandpaper - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia